As is quickly becoming tradition, I am spending New Year’s Eve (and the three nights before) in New Orleans.
This year, I decided that despite the shoestring budget that always accompanies this trip, I am going to dine at at least one of the upscale eating establishments that made the city famous. Of course, if I intend to do so, I probably need to make reservations well in advance. Does anyone have any suggestions? (Or places to avoid?)
If anyone has any other suggestions for where to go and what to do in NO, I would appreciate that as well.
One of the best meals I ever had was at The Court of Two Sisters. I didn’t even find it that expensive (compared to San Francisco:) ) Not cheap, of course - and the place itself was old and beautiful.
K-Paul is (OK). It’s sort of up there in price, with a limited, but quite exotic menu. It’s Delicious (with a capitol D).
There is also a restaurant (across from my hotel) where I didn’t eat. It was called something like Red Fish or whatever, on Royale St. I didn’t eat there only because I ran out of times to eat dinner. It is supposedly a fine chow-hall, getting 5 star reviews.
In NO, I also tried to eat a small bowl of gumbo in every place.
Things I learned:
Not all gumbo is the same.
Every establishment has gumbo that was voted “Best in NO”.
“Spicy” is a relative term.
It’s amazing just what the stomach can do.
And the colon.
Enjoy NO (as I’m sure you do), it’s one of my fav cities to visit (Especially during Jazz Fest!!).
I’d go for the place that’s famous for its flaming banana and ice cream after breakfast treat. Can’t remember the name of the place or the meal, but from what I’ve seen, it looks so good I just sit in front of the TV drooling and contemplating which flavor of ramen to make. Apparently the place was a favorite of Ronald Reagan, and he had them come up to DC for his innauguration.
There’s a Thai restaurant near the Quarter. Saim House, or something like that. It’s on Exposition near the end of the French Market, across from the armory (or was it the battery? It’s been about four years since I’ve been there.) Not upscale, but the food is good.
My best friend’s girlfriend used to work at “The Famous Historical Court of Two Sisters”. One Mardi Gras we changed the sigh to read “The Lamest Hysterical…”
This restaurant is called “Brennan’s.” The dessert is called “Bananas Foster” and was originally made by a gentlemen by the name of Foster for Mr. Brennan back in 18__ (Sorry, I read the history on this but can’t remember the year). You will need to make reservations for breakfast. Everything is wonderful although very pricey. I had breakfast there last Friday when I made the mistake of going to New Orleans for Thanksgiving. Big mistake (I won’t go into it; let’s just say I flew in Thursday afternoon at 4:00 p.m. and turned around and flew back out at noon on Friday).
Also, for dinner, try “Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse” or “Commander’s Palace.” Both are very, very good.
As a former New Orleanian, I can authoritatively state that most of the restaurants such as The Court of Two Sisters, Brennan’s, Arnaud’s and so forth have been skating on their reputations for years, serving the same old sauce-heavy French stuff that used to pass for haute cuisine back in the Fifties.
The newer, exciting restaurants in the Quarter are Susan Spicer’s Bayona on Dauphine, K-Paul’s on Chartres, NOLA on St. Louis and Emeril’s (yes, THAT Emeril) in the CBD. You should check out Mulate’s on Julia St near the Quarter for authentic Cajun food. The one old-line restaurant I can heartily recommend is Commander’s Palace in the Garden District. It’s pricey and worth every penny!
If you’re feeling adventurous, I can also recommend having a meal at the Clover Grill. It’s just a 24/7 greasy spoon diner, but it’s directly in the heart of the gay part of Bourbon St., and the people watching can’t be beat!
For outstanding African cuisine, you have to try the fried plantains and Ghanaian chicken stew at Bennachin on North Carrollton. It’s not in the Quarter, so you’ll need to take a cab. The food there is indescribably good.
Be sure to venture out of the Quarter. New Orleans is a fabulous collection of communities, and if you stay in the tourist areas you’ll never get a feel for the wonderfully
eclectic funkiness that is N’Awlins.
Even though I’m straight, Clover Grill is one of my favourite places to eat in N’Awlins. They cook their burgers under hubcaps so they stay juicy. Have a burger with a side of hashbrowns, and use the Tabasco!
(According to their menu, they also have Fruit Loops.)
Re: Emeril’s and NOLA–I keep thinking that Emeril’s places would have to be touristy and overrated at this point, and that’s what I’d like to avoid. Still yet, I may give NOLA a try.
Eve–I fell in love with The Gumbo Shop a couple of visits ago. I’ve been there twice, both times with big groups of people, and I’ve never sampled anything that wasn’t fantastic. Even with an appetizer and a few beers, you can get out for under $20.
goboy–what are some other areas of NO that you would recommend exploring? I would like to see more of the city than the Vieux Carre this time. Did you like living there?
Oh! Just thought of one. Its kinda unoriginal, but the (name most likely incorrect) Acme Oyster Co. Go, if not just to see the records on the wall of most oysters eaten in one sitting. Its right off of Bourbon, about 3 blocks down from Canal on the right.
I had dinner at **Emeril’s/b] before Emeril got famous, and I didn’t like it THEN (compared to other restaurants). God only knows what it’s like now.
I would advise against eating Thai, or Chinese, or Italian. You’re in fucking New ORLEANS…eat Creole, eat Cajun. About two visits ago I was dragged to Mike’s on the Avenue (when I really wanted some red beans and rice at Mother’s). The food was just fine, but I could have been in New York or San Francisco or Los Angeles or Chicago for all I knew. Likewise Bella Luna…good grub, but SOUTHWESTERN, for chrissake!
I’ve dined at Antoine’s and Arnaud’s…usually I LIKE that kinda classy old-fashioned joint, but I found their cuisine too rich and too bland. For classic Creole, I much preferred Commander’s Palace.
The food I had at K-Paul’s (with two firnds) was so good that we wordlessly shoved our plates to the left after consuming each third of an entree, wanting to make sure that we could each taste a bit of the heaven that the others had ordered.
Bayonna was really good, but perhaps the best meal I ever had in NO was at Brigtsen’s, way the hell out in Riverbend on Dante Street. When I ascend to the Pearly Gates of Heaven, Saint Pete will be waiting for me with a big platter of Brigtsen’s dirty rice.
I had dinner at Emeril’s before Emeril got famous, and I didn’t like it THEN (compared to other restaurants). God only knows what it’s like now.
I would advise against eating Thai, or Chinese, or Italian. You’re in fucking New ORLEANS…eat Creole, eat Cajun. About two visits ago I was dragged to Mike’s on the Avenue (when I really wanted some red beans and rice at Mother’s). The food was just fine, but I could have been in New York or San Francisco or Los Angeles or Chicago for all I knew. Likewise Bella Luna…good grub, but SOUTHWESTERN, for chrissake!
I’ve dined at Antoine’s and Arnaud’s…usually I LIKE that kinda classy old-fashioned joint, but I found their cuisine too rich and too bland. For classic Creole, I much preferred Commander’s Palace.
The food I had at K-Paul’s (with two friends) was so good that we wordlessly shoved our plates to the left after consuming each third of an entree, wanting to make sure that we could each taste a bit of the heaven that the others had ordered.
Bayonna was really good, but perhaps the best meal I ever had in NO was at Brigtsen’s, way the hell out in Riverbend on Dante Street. When I ascend to the Pearly Gates of Heaven, Saint Pete will be waiting for me with a big platter of Brigtsen’s dirty rice.
Doctor J, I enjoyed New Orleans, and if it hadn’t been necessary to move for greater job opportunities, I would have stayed. I would suggest visiting the following places to get a good feel for New Orleans.
Visit the Jean Lafitte National Park in Chalmette. This is the area where the Battle of New Orleans was fought.
Rent a car and drive up to St. John the Baptist Parish to see Laura and Twin Oaks Plantations. These are authentic ante-bellum plantations with costumed guides who give you a tour of daily life in the years before the Civil War.
Back in New Orleans, visit Magazine Street. This is an artsy area with great shops and a very boho atmosphere.
4)Take the St. Charles Streetcar to see the mansions that the Americans built after the Purchase in 1803.
5)Visit Tipitina’s on Napoleon St. to catch some great music with local atmosphere.
I went to NOLA in February and it was awful. Check out some of the on-line reviews of Emeril’s newest and you’ll see what I mean. I will say that the waiters there are the best I have ever been served by, and the elevator is cool, but the food is not worth it.
The most incredible, most mouth-watering, lucious, tender, succulent filet mignon I’ve had in my 25 years on this planet I ate at Tujaques. It is across from Cafe Dumonde (sp?), kind of down the street just a bit from Jackson Square. Every cab driver knows where it is. It isn’t too pricey…with a bottle or two of good wine, expect about a $125-$150 for two people. You get a choice of two main courses, but everyone eats the same soup and brisket (ooohhhmyyygoddd). I can’t say enough about this place. It has that European feel that I love so much.
Tujague’s is at 823 Decatur, between Madison and Dumaine, just up from Jackson Square. Hard to beat their red beans and rice, too. And they’re close by the Central Grocery, so you can pick up a muffuletta sandwich for dessert.
I have to agree that Court of Two Sisters isn’t all that great. Went there for brunch during Mardi Gras last year, and for like, $35 a person, got a truly mediocre meal. Place was pretty and everything, but for that kind of cash, we could have gotten, like three courses and cocktails at the Gumbo Shop. Eggs Sardou were good, though.
Acme Oyster House is off Canal downtown, by the Sheraton and stuff, which ain’t that distinctive, but they have an excellent raw bar and lunch special, which, IIRC, is half a po-boy (oyster, catfish, roast beef or turkey) and a bowl of red beans and rice.
For the truly high-ticket:
Antoine’s
Galatoire’s (but they’ve gone downhill)
Commander’s Palace
Arnaud’s, but look at this for another opinion: http://www.themanfromhunger.com/arnauds.htm
K-Paul’s
Emeril’s (but ONLY on nights the Man Himself is there)
and for general recommendations ask NOT the people around the hotels, who will steer you to the high priced and mediocre, but the guy who opens oysters at either the Acme, or anyone who looks fat and local.
For budget eats, which, IMHO, can be in fact better, don’t miss muffaletas at Central Grocery, or po-boys just about anywhere, but especially here: http://www.themanfromhunger.com/domileses.htm
Hope this helps!