Really, all the advice here can be distilled into “Go to a Men’s Wearhouse and tell them the same thing.” Explain to them precisely the same thing you did in the OP. They will help you out.
Men’s Wearhouse isn’t where the celebrities go to dress for the Oscars by any means, but they sell serviceable, quality clothing and know enough about menswear to help you dress correctly. They’ll put you in a good suit, provide you shirt and tie combination options, and even help you with an overcoat. Don’t be proud. Tell them you need help. It’s what they do.
Little known fact…go to a Nordstrom Rack, buy a suit, then go to Nordstrom store and have them tailor it. Rack occasionally has “athletic” cut suits, which is probably what you want. Nordstrom stocks athletic cut suits.
For your size, I advise also to go to Nordstrom. You are not at 42 regular. At 6’4" and 250 myself, finding a suit that did not have to be re-cut was always a PITA at men’s stores like MW. Pay attention to the “drop”–chest size to waist size. Most are 6", I took a 12-14" drop (48-50" CH/36-38" waist). If the drop is not correct off the rack, it will never look good on you. as the pants will look like Bozo’s big pants in any suit for which the jacket fits correctly. Having the waist taken in just makes them look like bigger pants, with a small waist.
[Re-cut: they take the suit pants apart, cut material out–and then sew it back together. There is usually a $100 charge, but well worth it.]
Navy Blue suit, white shirt, red/blue tie. navy blue socks, black shoes. Done. Get shoes at The Rack.
Consider double breasted.
Nordstom also stocks necks up to 19" and sleeves up to 36 in shirts.
FYI, hit the June men’s sale, most of their stuff is 25-50% off rack price during this sale.
You don’t say how much you can afford, but if you can afford it, go to a tailor. If you have the time for research, read Alan Flusser’s Dressing the Man. This will not only help with the suit but also the accessories.
You’re also going to need a pair of decent shoes.
One tip: I’m a similar height, but while I have a 40" waist, I find I have to have 42" trousers belted in or they’re tight around the crotch.
The only thing I’ll add is to consider going outside of black for your shoes/belt.
If you get a charcoal or navy suit, a pair of burgundy (or oxblood, merlot, cordovan (color, not leather), etc) shoes and belt look fantastic and can be that little detail that sets you apart from the average Johnny One-Suit and his scuffed black oxfords.
If you can’t afford to go to a tailor then you really can’t afford to get a suit. Untailored suits looks horrid; like children playing dress-up.
I’m weird in that I hate putting in my suit but I love how I look in it.
You are getting great advice. When I bought my suit I splurged on Egyptian Cotton shirt and a silk tie. They both look great. It doesn’t make any sense to spend all that money on the suit itself but cheap out on other things.
I always wear a watch with my suit, either my pocket watch or a wrist watch. To me there isn’t anything tackier than looking at a cell phone to tell the time when you’re all dressed up. If you use a wrist watch make sure the band matches your belt and your shoes.
And make sure your posture is proper. You look good, act like it.
Man, leave it to the dope to come through. You guys are awesome.
Allright. Based on the advice in this thread here’s my game plan, subject to change if this thread still has legs and I’m continuing to get advice:
Go to Men’s Wearhouse, and ask them to fit me into a) a wool, b) three piece [I know, but I want to see what it looks like. Will probably go for a two piece or simply forgo the vest], c) charcoal grey single breasted suit. I’ll try both two and three button, look at the difference. I will wear the shoes and belt to the store (I have both already).
A white point-collar shirt, possible French cuffs, 100% cotton, from likely someplace other than MW. I’ll look at their selection, but will prepare to be disappointed.
Nordstrom is literally across the parking lot from MW. I’ll try there as well, but my suit budget is $600 max. I suspect Nordstrom’s won’t like that. I might be able to find a nice shirt and a tie there and get the slacks / jacket [and vest :D] at MW.
I’m disappointed that something as subtle as a collar pin is considered too flashy. On someone other than a dweeb they look good, IMO. Considering I have a beard it may be invisible anyway.
I’ll try to look for a dark tie with a very subtle pattern. Forgo the pocket square.
Goggling for overcoats finds them to be VERY expensive, for the type that is worn over a suit jacket. I may simply have no choice but to skip it, unless I find some big bucks somewhere.
Although it may have seemed too trivial for you to mention this in the OP, the budget is the most important consideration. Same as buying a car. Stay away from blended fabric.
When you try the suit on, button it and see how the lapels go. Do they lay flat? Don’t get it if it doesn’t. Also move around in it. You aren’t modeling for the wax museum, you are buying clothes for a living person.
When you buy your shirt and tie, take your suit with you.
Don’t. The purpose of the tie and shirt is to lead up to the head. This is explained in the book I recommended. Unless you’re going to a funeral, you want a tie which both complements and contrasts with your suit and shirt. Probably a diagonal stripey pattern.
If you’re keen on accessories, consider a tie clip.
I didn’t say “Parkas are just great over fine wool suits,” I said “The overcoat is not part of your ‘I need to look good tonight’ wardrobe.”
The OP is going to a musical performance and a dinner. He is not going to a presidential inauguration where he will be sitting outside in full view all day. The idea of his spending another $500 to get an overcoat that really only fits right when he’s also wearing a jacket is what’s beyond ridiculous. If he were filthy stinking rich, had a closet full of suits he wore all winter or were going to Nome for this event, I’d talk about overcoats. But for one December night in Baltimore, it’s an unnecessary expense.
Agree with the MW advice. IME, they make o.k. to decent menswear, at a considerable budget. The staff at the one I went to were extremely helpful. I have two suits from them that have served me well over the years. I’ve had others recommend Jos. A. Bank for a similar market. I’m not sure how far $600 will go at either the Rack or the main store, which is another vote for something like MW or Jos. A. Bank.
Having your own tailor do the alterations will be very good in making your clothes look like you spent a lot more on them than you did. A private tailor will probably cheaper than having Nordie’s do it for you, but I’m spoiled by having literally 50 or so different ones to choose from. That may not be the case in your area.
I love French cuffs, but buying cufflinks is yet another expense, and one you can probably forego. Stick with point collar and regular button cuffs and you should be fine. Another vote for either charcoal or navy. I originally thought navy, FWIW.
Really though, I came in to point out that thrift stores may have overcoats that’ll work for you. You’ll have to look far and wide—it’s harder to find good men’s clothes than women’s in a thrift store—but it’ll be a lot cheaper than you’ll find in a menswear shop. I am an easier size to fit than you, but I’ve found a couple that currently hang in my closet. (Irony, since I practically never need them here in E. Texas) I do think you’ll need one for anything outdoors in MD in winter. Are people really warm enough wearing a regular suit in an East Coast winter?
Since something like a consensus has developed, I’ll just renew my objection and say that I think you can do better than Men’s Wearhouse for $600. You can get an OK suit there, I’m sure (although in my opinion that Jones New York one ain’t it), but if you look around a bit you can actually get a good suit if you’ve committed to spending that much. Brooks Brothers 1818 suits, for instance, are regularly around $1000 and there are occasional 40% off sales, plus things like outlets, and they’re legitimately nice suits, including the fact that they aren’t fused, which as ReticulatingSplines said is important if you care about the thing lasting. You could even get something from Ebay and a few wearings down the line be in much better shape for the same money.
I read somewhere that generals use tape in order to make their uniforms look so straight in formal pictures. The rest of us have to do things like lift our arms above our knees.
