Ok galt, Your correct, I need not pin donw all the factors, it was excessive of me, I apologize.
He we go, and I’ll try to include everyone who asked a question or commented, not in any particular order.
Honda Prelude, 200,000 miles and no replacement?? Consider your self very lucky, but I have to say, I used to own one, and I was impressed with it, but I drove the hell out of it!! SO I had to replace the clutch at 140,000!!
But don’t engage the clutch unless you have to, you apply slight pressure to your breaks.(say for 3-4 sec) with out even having to depress it.
Braking on ice, NEVER, EVER, brake on ice, (two points for DES), this is the worst thing you can do, you are better off merely trying slightly brake while keeping control, also downshifting on ice is just about the same thing, when you downshift (especially if the RPMs don’t match), you will speed up the wheel spin, this creates that “hydroplane” effect you may heard about in Driving school when traveling fast while it’s raining…mind you this is back before they had ZR rated tires, and before Posi-traction became standard on most cars.
Irishman, I would never shift the car without using the clutch…(what your friends who drove those ambulances were talking about), was something a lot of “hot-rodders” used to do, once you got real familiar with your car, you tend to know when the plates are matched…I.E. on most cars in 2nd going to 3rd between 2.3k and 3.2k RPMs, they would simply pull the shifter out of gear and put in the next, but you had to be quick and smmoth, otherwise you would girnd the hell out of the clutch. What glat and I were discussing, was that if you want to down shift, you need to be able to know at what RPM is the correct shifting time to go into a lower gear…(example:, If in 4th, if you let you foot off the accelerator pedal and let the tac drop to say, 1100rpm, then shift into 3rd <-mind you this varies on each type of car and ho tuned it is-> you would be “matching” the plate spin, and thus create no “smaking” of the links when you engae the lesser gear, coming from the higher one.
Mind you all, even in Automatics, there is a CLUTCH. you just don’t manually shift it. the computer in the car is preset to determine what rpm to shift it at with an actuator rod/pin.
knappy- you are correct in the way you drive, but your friend DEFINITELY damaged was tearing up you transmission, and subsequently your Clutch if he never went out of 3rd gear at high speeds.which would only further me to believe when he did downshift, the car was really getting “jerked” around. I wouldn’t let him drive it anymore, unless you don’t mind replacing your clutch again, and sooner than you realize, your transmissions. Your clutch will go first 90% of the time, but when that transmission goes, ouch! Break out the piggy bank!
thinksnow- well yes and no, as long as the gear you’re cycling into when you decide to drop the hammer, is the proper one then you’re fine, but if you are in 4th, say at 60 mph, and you see that the light up ahead it red, but you know it’s going to change etc., etc., and you depress the clutch, and start cycling, if you are now at 40 mph and you’ve cyled 2 gears, and you drop the “hammer”, you will be beating the hell out of your clutch, and tranny. it goes back to know not only what the Tac says but what speed each gear is best at (speed range that is). it takes a while to get used to knowing this. I remember that on 1990 Honda CRX’s had alittle light on the console that would tell you when to shift to the next gear, this was very usefull, in the fact you couold see what speed range each gear was supposed to be controlling. You learned to not even look at it after awhile, just at your speed and tacometer, and then finally, just the “sound” the engine made for shifting, this is what I call “learning the noise” factor.
Hmm, weight ratio, tires size, wheel pitch/displacement.
Add in curb weight (read as your cars shift weight on taking corners at certain speeds), and that is a new topic thats for sure. Oh yes, I almost forgot…
Accelerating on corners…not suggested, you increase your curb weight (think centrifical force)…or better yet…remember the water in the bucket?? and how you spin in circles and the water never seems to goe anywhere, well on a corner you don’t have that bucket to hold your butt in… and thus increase the chance of your car “slipping” out of the turn, just take your foot off the gas, and enjoy the turn until about 3/4 of the way through, then accelerate, and enjoy the feeling of the straight away!