How do we convince our refrigerator that we will love and accept it no matter who it dates?
Oh, wait, that’s not right. Different sort of closet.
Our new refrigerator barely fits into our cabinetry. A detailed description wouldn’t be all that relevant, suffice as to say the kitchen layout pretty much puts it in a makeshift cabinetry closet (a wall behind it, to its side and cabinets on top). There is negligible clearance on top and sides. I cut in a 14x8 hole in one wall about ten inches off the ground, but that seems insufficient.
Most of my cooling experience is in building computers, so I may be over-thinking this. But since a refrigerator’s job is to cool things down, aren’t I asking for trouble if it can’t easily get rid of waste heat?
Barring other ideas, I’d like to install a fan in the top of the cabinet with a small bit of ductwork to the cabinet’s bottom (the lower bit where I put the hole is right where the animals eat/drink, so a fan there is out of the question no matter how comical I think it would be).
Which direction should the air move? Pulling air out so cooler air comes in through the return at the bottom?
The two things I’d want in a fan are quietness (bathroom exhaust fans tend to be fairly loud) and one with a thermostat to turn it on and off as needed. Does something like that exist? What is it called? Can someone help out with search terms?
An update: since installing the refrigerator inside a cabinet with very little clearance, I have had zero problems. The refrigerator is designed such that air enters the front and exits the front.
I recommend that you check the owner’s manual or installation guide for your refrigerator. It may be, as Crafter_Man said, that there is no problem with this, but the manuals will tell you exactly what clearance is needed.
Most regular size kitchen fridges are built so they “breathe” through the space under the doors - the back of pretty much every fridge I’ve seen in the past ten years has a sealed, flat backside with no vents. Fridge makers have realized that people slide refrigerators into snug spaces between cabinets and walls, so they’ve designed and built accordingly.
As long as your “makeshift cabinetry closet” has no front, you should be fine.
There is a notable exception - a lot of bar fridges and wine coolers need breathing space and will cook themselves to death if you stuff them into a tight spot under the counter, unless you get one that is designed for “buil-in” use. This was a $400 lesson for my sister in law a couple of years ago.
Thanks. The cats used to congregate in front of the old fridge, so lower exhaust vents make sense. I’m unfortunately in the office so can’t check right away, and the cat doesn’t like to take calls during the day.
The manual (PDF) is somewhat vague, with things like:
As noted in CM’s 2010 thread, the question seems to be one of efficiency more so than overall operation. I’ll call Samsung and ask for more specifics, but I pessimistically think whoever answers the phone will read the basic manual and insist that I need at least two to three inches for ‘efficient’ operation.
And if it does make a difference, I figure the cost of a fan and electricity to intermittently run it would be fairly minimal. I’m not trying to keep people cool, just move enough air to mimic a bit more space. Plus, I get to cut a giant hole in our cabinets. I already [del]got[/del] had to cut down the cabinet faces (thank you, oscillating saw!), this would finish the job.
ETA: Since fridge style has been mentioned, the unit in question is a Samsung 32 cu. ft. French Door Refrigerator. The freezer is a draw on the bottom.
Get you a thermometer. Put in various places back there and just see how hot things are getting. One of those probes on long wire would probably make this process easier.
It didn’t look vague to me; two inches behind, two inches above and 3 3/4" on either side, and that was more to allow the doors to open than for ventilation.
i’ve seen newer fridges that intake in the rear and exhaust out the front. if there is a vent on the rear and space needed above and to the sides then it is likely that.
i had an older one that both intake and exhausted from the front.
if intake is from the rear a thermostat control above or behind the fridge is likely not useful because those areas aren’t likely to get very warm. a thermostat sitting on the coils might work.
Yeah, I’ve never seen an installation manual that didn’t gve specific clearances on all sides. It’s been easy for me, our walls are tongue and groove planks and I just rebuild the walls when we get a different sized refrigerator.