I am building a mini-kitchen in the basement. I had custom oak cabinets installed. The cabinets include a recessed enclosure for a refrigerator. There will be a wood panel on each side of the refrigerator, plus above it. The rear of the enclosure is drywall. So the enclosure is like a “pocket.” The width is 36 inches, the height is 70 inches, and the depth is 27 inches.
I haven’t yet purchased the refrigerator. I plan on buying a side-by-side.
I know it will be a tight fit. Based on what’s available from Frigerator, Maytag, etc. I know there will only be about one inch between each vertical side of the refrigerator and adjacent wood panel. And perhaps only a one or two inch gap in the rear.
Here’s my question: do I have to worry about getting enough ventilation to the rear of the enclosure where (I assume) the refrigerator’s condenser coil is located? Or do modern refrigerators route the airflow in a way that this is not an issue anymore?
Normally the condencer is at the bottom of the unit. Air is sucked on one side of the front and blows accross the coils and out the front. My frig is in a tight hole with less than an inch one each side and top. In 15+ years never had a problem.
Huh. So the condenser is no longer in the back? And air enters/exits at the front? I must be living in the Stone Age. Thanks for letting me know this, though.
There should be specs listed in the manual that will give you the minimum clearence around the unit. I think it’s normally in the neighborhood of an inch or so all the way around (including the back). If that’s the case, I’d suggest, after you build the cabinet, you put a 1x1 piece of lumber on the rear of the cabinet. Either nailed somewhere, or even just tossed on the floor. Just to make sure that it can’t accidentally be pushed all the way back.
ETA, some condensers are attached to the back, some are underneath. It varies from model to model, but I think more and more have them on the bottom.
Since you haven’t bought the refrigerator yet, I’d suggest figuring out which model you’re thinking of and looking for the manual online. (Many manufacturers publish them in PDF form.) I was bored, so I looked up the manual for a mid-price Maytag model. It calls for 0.50 inches all around, although it suggests 2 inches on the side if there’s a solid wall there, just to leave you enough room to swing the door open.
The question, however, was not “Will there be a problem” (as in malfunction), but rather “will it be efficient”. There are major efficiency issues with too little ventilation. Conceivably, a different design might have saved you considerable money on your electric bill over those years. I don’t know the details of your installation, though, so can’t say.
Everyone else is telling the OP what to look for on that score. I’ve seen nothing but good advice from them, so add my vote to their advice.
Most units can be surrounded by cabinetry without affecting performance, efficiency or safety… or longevity.
The only way to really know for sure is to contact the manufacturer and/or get the installation instructions (setup guide) or other relevant material(s).
the heat exchange below needs to be forced with a fan. also it places a hot area near the freezer for bottom models. dust is a large problem… these can cause inefficiencies. water drip pan is also smaller.
heat exchange on the rear is by convection and requires no fan and dust is less of an issue. heat is farther away from the freezer. air space on the top needs to allow free hot air flow and on the sides for cool air inflow.
read the manual of units considering to see exact clearances required.
Minimum clearance for most fridges seems to be around 1/8" on the sides, 1/2" on top and a few inches in the back. When building kitchens we usually keep it pretty tight an inch on both sides sounds huge! If the enclosure is much bigger I close of the front to recommended tolerances with fillers.
We never build the kitchen before the appliances are chosen! Pick your fridge, build the enclosure to the tolerances recommended by the manufacturer.
By no problem I ment there was no problem with the air flow. The unit is running the same as one ditting in the open. More improtant besure to clean the coils when ever dirty.
Thanks for letting me know this, though.