Over Valentine’s Day, my girlfriend and I traveled halfway across the state in hopes of eating at a restaurant that is very special to us. It has fabulous food in an old, historic building, the prices are not exorbitant, and the owner is friendly and casual, seeming to care more about treating the customers like guests and feeding them in a manner to remember than extracting the last penny from their pockets.
The price list was usually more than I’d expect to pay for a normal casual dinner out, but as this was a special occasion, and I knew that the food would be excellent, I bore absolutely no grudge. We usually get out of the place with a salad course, entree, dinner wine, dessert, and coffee for about $65-$75. $20-$22 dollar entrees. High-ish middle scale for our location, but the food quality sits squarely in the upper scale. Great value.
Ah, but when we arrived, we learned to our dismay that the place had been moved down the road, away from the liberal arts college town where we knew it, and closer to the center of wealth in and around Birmingham. Annoying, but if they were in search of greener pastures, that’s fine too.
We decided to go find them. After the new owner of the old restaurant graciously provided us with directions, we took another hour or so to locate the new place.
We arrived famished and ready for a wonderful dinner.
The new place turned out to be an ENORMOUS disappointment. THe one highlight of the evening was that because we had driven so far to eat at the old restaurant, the owner took pity on us and seated us even though we did not have a reservation.
Alarm bells went off. The old place never required reservations. Still, it was gracious of her to seat us anyway.
Surprise number two: a prix fixe menu. No problem, really. I normally enjoy a prix fixe dinner at a restaurant. It usually shows that the chef has put a lot of thought into making complementary dishes, and the whole experience might be viewed as an appreciation of his/her skill. Besides, they had my favorite dish from the old restaurant (rosemary grilled lamb chops with asparagus and garlic potatoes,) so I settled down and was content. I just guessed that the owner was attempting to offer a tighter “restaurant experience” rather than merely a dinner out. That’s fine…although I wasn’t sure I was content with the newfound gestures toward formality.
Then I saw the prices. Uh oh. Substantially higher than at the old place. In fact, more than twice as high. Misgivings started to surface.
Still, I’m not cheap when it comes to food, and I’d gladly pay that much and quite a bit more if the food was extraordinary.
To make a long story short, it wasn’t. The lamb, which I know is best rare, was cold and bloody, with no texture, and no flavor. The asparagus was gray and mushy. Gone were the garlic potatoes. In their place was a mound of “saffron rice.” In reality, it looked more like Rice-a-Roni. At those prices, I want to see the filaments of saffron in the rice. My girlfriend wanted a seafod pasta. It came out waaaay past al dente, and with a few smallish shrimp.
My dessert (New York style cheesecake) was mealy and partially frozen.
The bread was cold and came out with foil-wrapped butter pats.
Bah. It was as if something had sucked all the soul and life out of this place we loved, replaced it with a pale, crass shadow of it, and charged more for the food. The place was packed, of course.
We were very disappointed. If you are willing to pay for an extremely good dinner, you ought to get a good experience and atmosphere along with it. I resent being asked to pay $150 for Portion-Paks of butter and creamer. At least serve the stuff out of a cream ewer. And it takes a lot of balls to charge $50 for a plkate of soggy penne pasta, whose ingredients cost the restaurant all of $3.50. Maybe if they were serving French cuisine done right (feather-light souffles, perfectly prepared pates, carefully matched wines, etc.) that actually required a lot of attention, skill, and patience, I wouldn’t resent it. In fact, I know I wouldn’t. But this was pasta, for chrissakes…and pasta that someone wasn’t watching very closely, at that. I’ve had much better at Olive Garden.
We’ll never go there again. I now wish the owner had turned us down flat.
I’ve considered writing the owner with my concerns, but I don’t know that it would do any good - and I doubt that I could be convinced to drop another $150 next time just to see if they took my advice.