In another thread, I mentioned that I decided to make my own custom sliding closet doors. Well, the first one is built, and now I just need to route in the door pull and then stain & urethane. If you look at the picture, there are a couple of places where the gap between the cherry and maple pieces is just a tiny bid less tight than I’d like. You can’t get a fingernail in there, but it calls my eye.
I’m going to put a coat of natural stain on these and then a semi-gloss oil based urethane. Any suggestions for a filler that would cooperate with those and hide the gap a little bit? One thing I considered is the species-matched filler I have used in hardwood floors, but that comes in big tubs that will dry out. I don’t think it matters if it matches the maple or the cherry, I just want to reduce the dark line between the panels.
You can make your own wood putty by sanding the wood in question and mixing with glue. I’ve had mixed results; PVA wood glue like Titebond dries brown and looks terrible. Elmer’s white glue or CA glue are clear and can be OK. Definitely test how it dries and takes finish on something else before you try on your pretty doors.
If you don’t want traditional wood filler (like $5 tin, so not a big expense) there are wood filler crayons. Epoxy works well as a neutral filler also.
Epoxy won’t take stain at all and may stick out like a sore thumb. Homemade filler made with white glue may act similarly. Definitely test whatever you’re going to use on a scrap of the door material before using it on the real door.
Epoxy just looks clear/black. It’s very neutral. I’ve used it extensively in stained wood floors and tabletops. Especially with photo-sensitive woods like maple, cherry and walnut you want to go WAY darker than you think initially.
Sometimes the stain will make the small gap way less obvious, as it brings out the natural grain. And like most crafts, the maker is usually the only person who will notice it. I wouldn’t sweat it.
There is that. The easiest thing per the first response is to smear a little Titebond in the crack and random-orbit sand over it. Then walk away. To quote an early boss on a different subject: “Fuck it. Nail it! Winter’s coming!”
I have a number of woodworking projects around the house: an end table, a stool, some chairs, a couple of magazine racks, some charcutier boards . I can tell you where every little fault is on them, but people rave about how great they look. I very quickly stopped fretting about every tiny detail, as the small faults actually add to the “handicraft” aspect. Woodworking that is perfect is more likely art than craft.
I agree and I have used these wax crayons often to fill wood imperfections, cracks, nail holes, etc, and can blend seamlessly, after some practice. If you decide to use them, a variety of colors are available but wait until after the final finish coat is applied before proceeding. The two methods of application are rubbing the crayon into the opening or melting them into the opening. After the wax cools, wipe the area with a dry paper towels to remove any excess.
I believe the best thing in this case is to apply color putty after the first coat of finish has sealed the wood. You can mix putty to achieve the colour you want, you can even apply different colours to match grain character. Second coat of finish seals everything.
I just find that wood filler never matches well, takes stain and finish completely differently than wood and using glue or any kind of filler before the grain is sealed is asking for splotches. Even if you do choose to use a wood filler instead of putty, I recommend sealing the wood first.
I have been scolded about using filler enough times by painters coming after me to stain custom wood work.
