Gettin' Tax Money, Need Computer Upgrade

I originally had a thread about a machine I was considering buying from a friend, but decided against it (pirated software). So, now I need some help with my options.

I am considering the cost/benefit of upgrading my existing system or buying a new or newer used one one. My budget is $400.

For that money I can upgrade my HP Pavilion a1230n system (Athlon 64 processor, 2.2Ghz, 1 GB PC 3200 RAM, ASUS A8AE-LE motherboard, 200GB hard drive, etc) Full specs here: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documen...cname=c00471052
I am considering just buying 4 one gig sticks of RAM and going to 4GB to start at a cost of about $130. Do I need to update my BIOS if I do this? How? Why?

I also would want to buy a new video card, no more than around $150. I have a PCI Express slot. Does this automatically bypass the integrated card? Will I need a new power supply? What power supply do I have now? If I do need one, is it easy to replace? How do I do it?

Finally, I have seen some PC’s on Ebay for instance that are superior to my machine even when upgraded, but…some of them come with no software, so I’d have to buy that, then there’s also the fact that there is no guarantee that I’ll actually get the damn thing since people bid against one another, and there’s no reassurance that the machine will even work properly.

Suggestions, tips, help are all welcome! Thank You!

No, but unless you have a 64-bit version of XP or Vista (which seems unlikely given the age of the system), not all of that 4 GiB is going to be recognized. Expect it to see more along the lines of 3.5 GiB.

Generally, yes. Most modern motherboards will automatically recognize a new video card, but if it doesn’t, you might need to perform a wonderful musical cables of plugging the monitor into the integrated, turning off the integrated in BIOS, then switching to the video card.

In order: Not necessarily, probably a cheap one, not really, and very carefully.

More detail: OEM system builders often skimp on the power supply, since that’s the least visible part in a desktop. Yet it’s one of the most important. The most important number to consider is the power, which will hopefully be on a label on the side of the power supply. What is it?

Also, you didn’t say what video card you want. Different video cards consume different amounts of power.

Thanks Borghunter. I am posting this form work today so I am not at home to see what the wattage of my OEM power supply is. I didn’t see it listed in the spec sheet I posted either.

Basically I want the best PCI Express video card I can get for no more than $150 that doesn’t require me to do anything other than pop off the case and plug it in (aside from loading drivers, software, etc).

The problem with people who buy computers is they buy the hardware first, this is wrong. You need to buy hardware that suits your SOFTWARE needs.

Here’s the plan

Make a list of all the things you WANT to do with a computer.

Then put it in Excel. If you don’t have Excel use doc.google.com and make the spreadsheet there.

Then when you have this give each task a priority of 1 to 5.

1 = like to have but not needed
5 = MUST have

Then sort the list.

WHEN you find out what you’re ACTUALLY going to be using the computer for, then you go shopping for what you need.

Of course you put in room for future expansion

The problem with people who buy computers is they buy the hardware first, this is wrong. You need to buy hardware that suits your SOFTWARE needs.

Here’s the plan

Make a list of all the things you WANT to do with a computer.

Then put it in Excel. If you don’t have Excel use doc.google.com and make the spreadsheet there.

Then when you have this give each task a priority of 1 to 5.

1 = like to have but not needed
5 = MUST have

Then sort the list.

WHEN you find out what you’re ACTUALLY going to be using the computer for, then you go shopping for what you need.

Of course you put in room for future expansion

The specs for your machine say that the motherboard can support a maximum of 4 GiB of RAM. You shouldn’t need to update your BIOS for this; this limit is often set by the actual physical hardware.

On some motherboards, you may need to manually disable the onboard integrated video chips. This is done by changing a jumper. Check your motherboard manual. In the case of the ASUS A8AE-LE, there’s a discussion thread on Tom’s Hardware that suggests that this MB is an OEM product going to HP and a full manual is not readily available. Therefore, I’m not sure whether the video will automatically switch over after a separate video card is inserted into the system.

It is, of course, your right to make that decision, but i don’t understand why you turned down that computer. It was a good deal, even if you wiped every single piece of software off it and just paid $300 for the hardware alone.

Looking at the manual, from the picture of the back it would appear to be a standard ATX PSU. Google seems to confirm this and indicates that the PSU is either 180 or 300W. Neither will be good enough for a decent graphics card.

Any worthwhile tips on replacing the PS? They don’t look to be expensive but more of a pain in the arse to replace than anything. I have looked this tower over and I cannot find a label or sticker anywhere on it that indicates the power supply’s wattage rating.

Open up the case and look on the PSU itself. If it’s a standard ATX PSU as I expect, then replacing it is dead easy. Just unscrew and unplug the old one and plug in and screw in the new. If it’s not a standard one, probably your simplest option is to get one of those secondary PSUs which slip into a spare 5.25" bay.

There’s a lot of bargains out there these days. A few months ago I purchased a desktop …specs below…for $397.00, brand new and fully warrantied. This didn’t include a monitor, I don’t know if your $400.00 budget included monitor. This one was purchased from one of the large online computer warehouses.


Product Description: Acer Aspire M1201-ED5000A, Athlon 64 X2 5000+ 2.6 GHz
Type: Personal computer
Form Factor: Micro tower
Dimensions (WxDxH): 14.6 in x 17.9 in x 7.2 in
Localization: English, French / Canada, United States
Processor: 1 x AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ / 2.6 GHz ( Dual-Core )
Cache Memory: 1 MB L2 cache
Cache Per Processor: 1 MB
RAM: 2 GB (installed) / 8 GB (max), DDR2 SDRAM
Storage Controller: Serial ATA ( Serial ATA-300 )
Hard Drive: 1 x 320 GB, standard, Serial ATA-300
Optical Storage: DVD±RW / DVD-RAM
Card Reader: 12 in 1
Monitor: None.
Graphics Controller: ATI Radeon 2100
Audio Output: Sound card, 7.1 channel surround
Communications: Fax / modem
Networking: Network adapter, Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet
OS Provided: Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium
Manufacturer Warranty: 1 year warranty

Will have to wait to do that…but I will.

My biggest fear is the removal of the old PS and replacing it with the new. If I don’t have to determine where connections go across the motherboard then I’m gold.

All the connections are uniquely keyed.