I love hamburgers. I really really love hamburgers. But I live in the Bay Area. I can buy arugula, amaranth, fresh durian, every Asian cuisine known to man, but I can’t buy a friggin decent hamburger!
Nation’s is OK, if you like em cooked all the way through and juiceless. They come with grilled onions. There’s that, anyway.
Original Joe’s can be very good, but it’s really iffy. Sometimes they’re great, and sometimes they taste like the ground beef been left out overnight. (They don’t refrigerate the burger meat, just leave in out in a big hotel pan.)
I’ve heard Joe’s Cable Car is good, but it’s an hour or more away by PT, so I’ve never been.
Plus, nobody makes em as big as I like em. I like really really large hamburgers.
So I made myself one last night. Gotta do this when the wife’s not around, cuz it really stinks up the house.
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Heat up the skillet really hot; sprinkle liberally with salt.
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Take 12 oz (yep, you read me right) burger meat with plenty of fat (none of this 90% meat to fat ratio) and make it into a ball. When it’s this big, you can really char the hell out of the outside without turning it into shoe leather.
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Put the ball in the skillet, take a handful of sliced onions, and squish the onions into the ball as you push it down into a hamburger shape. It’s my understanding that this is called “Oklahoma City-style.”
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Set the timer for four minutes. Oh yeah, don’t forget to turn the hood fan on high.
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Put some bread in to toast. I would prefer to use a Widoff’s bulkie roll, even a Lederman’s if I had to, but rolls and bread in general suck out here in CA.
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Slice some cheese, cheddar or swiss or both (optional). Slice a good tomato. Only use it if it’s good. Get the pickles, ketchup and mayonaisse out of the fridge.
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Flip the burger when the timer goes off; place cheese on if using; set timer for three minutes. This will ensure it’s cooked to medium.
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Spread toast thinly with mayonaisse. Put big blob of ketchup on top slice. Put sliced dill pickle on bottom.
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Put burger on pickles. Put tomato on top of burger. Place top slice of toast on burger. Set timer for two minutes. (Gotta give the juices a chance to settle back into the center of the meat or they’ll all run out when you cut it.) Keep the fan on. Place skillet in sink and run water into it so it stops smoking.
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Open potato chips and Dr. Pepper (or beer if you drink). When timer goes off, turn off fan, cut burger in half, sit at table, and try not to moan too loudly; the neighbors will hear you. Mop chin periodically. Dab ineffectually at juice stains on T-shirt. Try not to wolf your food, chew it, dammit!
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Lay on back on couch with 20-pound cat on stomach, Giants game on radio, and crime novel in hand. Sigh with repleteness and ecstasy.
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Tune out wife’s complaints on how disgusting the house smells when she gets home.
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Attempt not to repeat more than every three weeks or so.
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Fail.
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Wish that they still sold Buster Crabbe T-shirts.