Okay, drove a Jeep from Dallas to Anchorage around '90 so a little has changed road-wise, part of the Al-Can was still dirt but obviously the scenery hasn’t. Being a geologist I went up the spine of the Rockies most of the way, up the Front Range in Colorado (I-25) and through the Wind River Range, Yellowstone and the Going to the Sun highway in Glacier National Park. All beautiful but for my money the most spectacular part of the trip is a little west of Alberta when you hit the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Jasper, etc. I’ve been several times since and it still simply blows me away how beautiful this country is. Also, I’ve got a bunch of ridiculous pictures of large game nearby, Bighorn sheep, Dalls, grizzly, moose, porcupine, black bear, etc., many taken from little more than a car length or two away.
Continuing north I camped at Strawberry Flats at Muncho Lake and woke to the mesmerizing sound of tiny ice flowes tingling against each other as the drifted on the lake by moonlight. While you’re on the Al-Can be sure and get the guide as early as you can. It lists most everything you’ll need to know about sights and stops along the way, history, etc. A most excellent guide. Much of the route has improved over the years but you can still tell in stretches that they intentionally wove and turned their way along without lengthy straight stretches so as to avoid getting a convoy straffed by Japanese planes. I probably had 25 to 30 miles of dirt to traverse but surely it’s all paved now.
The Yukon, Tok, Teslin Junction, all the way past the Matanuska Glacier and into Anchorage… I think it was around 4500 miles and it took me about 8 days pushing it pretty good. Coming back in December I stopped at all the ski resorts along the way. That too was awesome and took a couple of weeks.
You mentioned the ferry, the year before I rode the train from Anchorage to Denali and then hitchhiked to Whitehorse and Skagway, then caught the ferry down to Juneau, Sitka, Petersboro (sp?) and Ketchikan. Yes, it was stunningly beautiful, auroras at night, humpbacks, killer whales, etc. If you go that route you won’t be sorry but I wasn’t paying 5k for a car either.
I’ll secong Flattop when you’re in Anchorage just to get the lay of the land. I used to run up and down it twice a week when I was training for Mt. Marathon hill climb races in Seward and the scenery never got old. Same with Wolverine and a coupla others. The Kenai Penninsula, Soldotna, Homer… we’ll have lots more advice for you once you get settled up there. Chilkoot Charlies!
I look back on my drive up and back as one of the better adventures in a pretty adventurous life. Take lots of pics and notes and enjoy the experience. Everyone should do it once in their lives. I’m taking the family up next summer to see the state and wish we had the time to rent a camper and drive up again. It’s just a great trip and it sounds like your schedule will really let you take advantage of many of the notable stops along the way.