My youngest daughter received a nice bolt of material from India,which she wishes to turn into a choli, or sari top.
But unfortunately she’s been unable to find directions for how to do that, despite her searching the web. She’s found offers to sell her books on how to make one, but she’d really like some nice straightforward instructions on how to do it.
Any suggestions, anyone?
It’s basically a tight-fitting crop-top, usually fastened with hooks and eyes up the front (because the front is covered by the sari while the back is mostly exposed). The hem hits a little below the ribcage and is straight; the neckline is usually round and moderately scooped front and back. (Sometimes there are “inner epaulets” sewn in under the shoulder seams to keep your bra straps from peeking out.)
I’d guess that any sewing pattern for a front-closing, short-sleeved, collarless fitted top could be easily adjusted to produce a choli.
choli pattern
The first link looks to have pretty decent pattern drawings.
If you want to buy a pattern, Folkwear has what you’re looking for–third row, South Asian Wraps and Tops. It has directions for how to wear the sari, and other goodies. Folkwear patterns are a bit expensive, but they have lots of extras. If you get this, my advice is to trace the pattern onto different paper, so you can re-use the original pattern.
I can also recommend Folkwear. I’ve made up some of their patterns, and while expensive they also tell you a lot about the history and wear of the piece you’re making, as well as give you the above-mentioned extras. Most of their patterns can be done by someone with mid-level sewing skills, though this varies. Their directions tend to be pretty clear and not difficult to follow.
Most standard sewing supply stores don’t carry the Folkwear pattern line, but they can be ordered from the website.
If you live in an area with any Indian presence at all, you might be able to find a tailor to make one for you at a very reasonable price. Almost all cholis are custom made by tailors, so there is a strong and competitive market for them.
Find a sari shop and just ask to have a choli made. One of the larger shops may have a seamstress (darzin) on the premises who takes orders. She will get the measurements, take your cloth, consult with you about the style, cut, and extras, and call you in a few days or whenever your order is done. Otherwise the shop people may give you the phone number of a seamstress and you can call her on your own and set up an appointment.
Another possibility: I was in a sari shop recently and saw a rack of already made cholis. I asked how they were sized, and the shop lady showed turned one inside out and showed me a series of tight little pleats stitched inside the underarm area. You just take out the stitches according to your size. An easy system for Indian pret-à-porter, adjustable to a range of different sizes. Traditionally they had to be individually measured and tailored. I think that would still be best, if you can find a seamstress. Or make your own since the patterns have been provided by Squink and MagicEyes.
Thanks, all for the input. I’ve forwarded it on to my daughter to let her decide what to do.
The local indian population is rather sparse (almost, but not quite zero), but a drive of about 50 miles brings us to a city with a few indian restaurants, so maybe we could go in that direction.