i mean mustang; but my mouse batteries are dead and i’m not about to hit “TAB” 500 more times to correct it. i already passed both “New Thread” buttons twice. anyways, i don’t really know much about this mustang, but does anyone know where a list of prices or something like that would be on the internet?
Mileage? That’s a very important factor when pricing used cars.
Anyway, try MSN’s Kelly Blue Book lookup.
I’ll take it off his hands for free 
Raise you a dollar.
Hold shift, press tab. All the fun of tab, but in reverse.
There are about a billion websites dedicated to classic musctangs (If everybody spells it that way, m-w has to change thier spelling).
It has to be cherry (pristine) to be worth much, though.
Peace,
mangeorge
Kelly’s only goes back 21 years online, this is a 1965 model car.
For a classic car, mileage becomes less important. People will tend to be more interested in condition, how original it is, what rare options it may have, etc. Since it’s only worth what people are willing to pay for it (obviously), pick up a local car classified magazine or look up online classifieds and see what similarly equipped/condition cars are selling for.
And that’s about how many Mustangs Ford produced. They were incredibly popular and therin lies the value problem. When compared to other classic or collectible cars they’re near the bottom.
That’s not to say it’s worthless just that it’s nowhere near the value of other cars from the same era.
One thing that increases it’s value is the ease at which replacement and aftermarket parts are located. There’s a ton of those parts around and so that makes the Mustang quite attractive for a prospective owner (might want to use that as a sales schtick).
Of course the other answer is: “It’s worth whatever you can get someone to pay for it”
I love me some '65 Mustang. My dad had one when I was growing up, but alas (and, I think, alack) he sold before I was tall enough to drive.
Give us a picture of it.
If it’s in show condition $30k is not an unreasonable starting point. If it’s driveable but has a few minor points like rust spots, fabric tears, or paint scratches then it’s closer to $10k-$15k. If it’s run down but still has a good body then you may get $3k-$4k.
It can vary a lot, depending on condition and the specifics of the car.
First of all I’ll assume it’s NOT a Shelby. If you had one, you’d know.
Is it a 64 1/2? These were the very early 65’s, built before a specific date (like around April 17 or something, can’t remember). The only way to be positive is to check the build tag, although there are a few other things that at least give clues (generator vs. alternator, some trim on the hood, etc.) They’re worth a bit more.
What body style? Convertibles are the most valuable, followed by fastbacks then the plain old sedans.
What engine? V8’s are worth more than the inline 6’s. The ‘k’ code 289 is worth the most, followed by the ‘a’ then the ‘c’. If it’s a really early '65 it might have a ‘d’ code 289 or even a 260. I’m not sure on value for the last two, but I’d guess somewhere between the ‘k’ code and the 6’s.
What other options? Air, luggage rack, any of the GT options?
What condition is it in, both mechanically and cosmetically? Classic Mustangs are very prone to rust (floor pans, lower part of fenders, cowl vent, and lower fronts of door are particularly susceptible). Body work is expensive, and from a purely financial perspective lots of old Mustangs aren’t worth restoring. Of course from an emotional perspective I hate to see any of them left to rot!
Has it been restored? If so, what’s the quality of the work?
A plain coupe with no options, a 6-cylinder engine, in poor but driveable condition is worth maybe $3k or so. A mint, original convertible with a Pony interior, factory GT package, and a ‘k’ code 289 might be worth $35k - $40k.
- Grab a phone book
- Look under “Auto Appraiser”
- Set an appointment for a professional appraiser to evaluate the car. It’ll run about $250.
- Contact your insurance agent and give the news–make sure the car is insured properly (your agent will explain)
- Keep the appraisal, repeat steps 1-4 every couple years.
You need to keep the appraisal because your agent will not remember it when your car is stolen or wrecked. Reputable appraisers also keep a copy of their evaluation for their own mysterious purposes.
The appraisal is good to have for 2 reasons:
- If Daddy-o decides to sell the car, he’ll know an appropriate price and not get screwed.
- If the car is totaled, or worse–stolen, a recent appraisal will make the claim go more smooothly and he’ll have a better chance of recovering from the loss. Claims adjusters can get pretty skeptical when your tricked out & completely restored '65 Mustang disappears from your driveway in the night. An appraisal will be a very convincing document–a routine appraisal (every one or two years) will be more so because it will give a clearer indication of how the vehicle was used and how much, if any, deterioration has occurred over time.
I owned a 64 1/2.
I’m not an expert but I was led to believe they only had 6 cylinder engines or the 260 v8. No 289s in 64. Also it was a plain jane car. No fastbacks luggage racks or anything fancy.The frills came later.
I bought the little under powered car because I was constantly in trouble with speeding violations.Previously I had Pontiacs. That 389 would haul ass.
My Dad thought of the mustang as a girls car.
Here’s a 65 Fastback 2 + 2 I bought off ebay just last Sunday.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2425209793&category=6236&rd=1
This one has Shelby options - including wheels and suspension mods. But it’s not a true Shelby obviously. The car has been ground up restored and it really is a lovely bit of work.
I just have to get it from Miami Florida to Brisbane Australia now. Hope it can swim!
Something to note - in my considered opinion - after having gone through about 3 months now of learning, and shopping, and searching etc. It really is better if somebody has done the complete restoration already I reckon. It doesn’t matter what configuration engine and gearbox the car has - unless it’s a piddly six cylinder of course - and the reason is because if you’re ever going to do work on the engine you might as well just rebuild it with Edelbrock alloy heads and fuel injection and just make it a 300hp engine which runs on unleaded. But the body work and paint and carpet and headlining and trim and dash and lights and all that stuff?
Let somebody else do that hard work. Ripping an engine and gearbox out of a Mustang is really a dead easy thing to do in comparison.
In my opinion you’d get a pretty nicely restored 65 Fastback for around the $15,000 mark or upwards.
Don’t be too concerned about a lack of disc brakes either. You can buy kits to make all four wheels disc brakes real cheap. Same with power steering and air conditioning. The real challenge is the restoration on the body and interior.
“One thing that increases it’s value is the ease at which replacement and aftermarket parts are located.”
Also how often they need them.
And a pretty thing it is, Boo Boo Foo. Are you going to actually drive it? I hope so. It should do pretty well with those mods.
Am I gonna drive it? Shit yeah! My home town is about 50 miles south of Brisbane on the most easterly point of Australia’s mainland.
It’s very similar in climate and geography to Miami, Florida - but not with the strong Cuban anxiety overtones if you know what I mean.
It won’t be our daily driver, more a weekender for the wife and our young daughter to enjoy our lovely region in.
The best thing of course is that they’re not an overly complex car, really, are they? Ford Australia was building a Falcon at the same time which used a truckload of interchangeable parts. Looking after the Mustang won’t be a challenge at a mechanic’s level - but one thing I WILL be installing post haste is voltage based “sacrificial anode” system like the type used on boats to prevent corrosion on brass fittings etc. So long as your battery is topped up all the time - the sacrifical anode system prevents rust totally and completely forever. It’s a brilliant little invention - every car on the road should have one in my opinion.
Rust???
Oddly enough, I’m a very keen cyclist for fitness reasons, and last night as I was out on a ride, at about the half way mark, lo and behold rumbled along a genuine 1967 390GT Fastback - automatic sadly. The owner was just doing some quiet driving up and down his street to check out a new exhaust system. The number plate said… “IAM67”.
Now, for those of you who aren’t aware, the 67-68 390GT Fastback was THE famous car used by Steve McQueen in Bullit.
I followed the car hoping it would stop at an intersection and I asked the driver if I could ask some questions - seeing as how I’d just bought the car mentioned in my earlier posts.
It was a really nice car he owned, I must say. Metallic maroon with the white GT striping down under the doors.
Surprisingly wide and low actually.
But you know the problem I always have with a '67-68 model Mustang? The front grill was really ordinary in my opinion. The 64-66 model was ultra pretty, and the Mach 1 era from 69-70 got very menacing (and increasingly heavier too) but there was just something kinda lacking in the 67-68 era for mine. Apart from the grill however, the Fastback was a great looking car - but I still prefer the one I’ve bought.