Yeah, why put up a temporary fence for no reason? Am I missing something here? What’s the urgency? I’m assuming there’s no HOA issue here, since the only reason you rejected an orange plastic trash fence is because your wife wouldn’t like it.
My fence keeps my dogs in the yard, which is necessary because I have dog doors and they come in and out whenever they want whether I’m home or not. Also, they would definitely leave and eat all the neighbor’s garbage on their way to being hit by a car if I didn’t have a fence. So if my fence broke, I would need to repair it or replace it, ASAP. But if I wasn’t trying to keep my animals in, I certainly wouldn’t put up a temporary fence. I’d wait until I could afford the pretty fence I wanted.
If you’re just worried about forgetting where your property line is before you can install the next permanent fence, mark it with stakes or bury a post at the beginning and end of the property line.
Also, I don’t know the particulars of your local Home Depot, but the pre-made fence sections at my HD are slats only. You still need to install the posts every 8 feet, you just can screw the whole 8-foot section on at once instead of nailing all the slats on individually. They’re nice, but they don’t negate having to separately install posts. In fact, it can suck if you dug your post holes just a few inches too far apart or too close together. I used fence sections once, but next time I’ll go with 2x4s and individual slats.
We call them waratah driversover here. And they are so much better than using a sledge. If the OP can borrow one of these, get the posts and wire netting he’ll have the whole thing done in a couple of hours, pretty ugly though.
The fences on this property (seem to be common in this cheap neighborhood) are galvanized 2" steel posts (such as used in chain link) extending 6+’ above the ground. There are clips which snap onto the post and have flat surfaces onto which 2x4 rails are screwed. The fence boards attach to the (vertical) 2x4’s.
I’d suggest putting in good quality steel posts at least 6’3" above ground and install caps to keep out rain (which will rust out the post).
Attach whatever cheap stuff you want for now, but do the heavy part (digging post holes) ONCE - and put in posts which can be used when you get around to a permanent fence.
p.s. - put them 8’ apart. I’d use redwood rails - since they attach with screws, they too can be re-used; the lower stays put, the upper moves up to accommodate 6’ fence boards.
If you live in town, it’s a good idea to check for local codes regarding fences. We almost ran afoul of this in our city. The code had changed to require steel posts in concrete for all new fencing (we were planning wooden posts). I suspect your fence will fall in the “new” category.
FWIW: I use Quikrete, and mix it in the hole (rather than mess with a bucket or wheelbarrow). Dig hole with post hole digger. Signal assistant (wife) to put post in and hold level. With the hose, alternate water and shovelfulls of Quikrete, stopping occasionally to mix with a stick (or old ruler). After about 10 minutes it will be sturdy enough to leave for drying (I check on it every half hour to ensure still level). Come back the next day and nail the fencing to it. Usually, one 40 lb bag of Quikrete is good for two posts.
I don’t want to go into the whole story of what happened before I came here. Suffice it to say that it’s a good idea to have a fence along the property line. Ms. Obsessive doesn’t live on her lot… yet. Her handyman said she’s going to retire and move up permanently. Possibly soon. We should have a little fence up before that happens.
I think you’re misunderstanding my use of ‘temporary’. What I mean is that I don’t want a fence that will still be standing when the Sun burns out. Everything takes time and money, and I don’t have enough of either to do everything that needs to be done. It might be two years or more before I can have a rock wall built. Or the neighbour might decide to move up and put up her own fence in Spring. By ‘temporary’ I mean a decorative section of fence that isn’t going to rot or fall down for an indefinite period of time that is a shorter period of time than would be expected for a permanent fence. Since it will be there for an extended period of time, it can’t be construction rolls or chain link. It has to be non-objectionable to us, neighbours, and She Who Will Be Next Door.
Six feet it too high for the front yard. It would destroy both our views. Three feet max.
I have one.
I don’t have one.
It’s not so bad. The roots that run just under the surface everywhere are the real pains.
I don’t live in town. People pretty much do what they want here. Quikrete is what I was thinking of. After reading what someone else wrote, I think I’ll see how the old posts are set before deciding on using it.
You don’t have an angle grinder and you’re worried about a fence?!?! My god man, get down to the store and get yourself an angle grinder. How on earth have you been making sparks without one?
Setting the posts correctly is a must. You can always change out the actual fencing material later. use something cheap now and install something better to those same posts later.
I’d use galvanized posts. They can easily be boxed in with pressure treated wood later.
short video that shows how to set the posts in a straight line.
he’s using the old school string method. best and cheapest option for home DIY. Pros use the new digital laser equipment to shoot a line down the posts. But string has been used for centuries and works great.
