Prologue: I find that threads in The Pit to be the most entertaining on the SDMB. I’ve learned that writing effective rants is far more difficult that it may appear. However, inspired by my last rant which, incidentally, won me the prestigious “2004 Homebrew’s ‘Not a Jerk’ Award” and inspired a DopeFest, I turn my attention to Memphis, where I’ve been at on business. Now, on to the rant:
I have been in Memphis for work, and have been looking forward to the renowned BBQ that Memphis has to offer. However, man cannot live on rib racks and chicken alone—sometimes you just aren’t that hungry. So, what should you turn to when you’re not hungry but want BBQ? How about a BBQ Sandwich? This reasonable desire led to the following conversation:
Me: I would like the BBQ Pork Sandwich.
Waitstaff: Would you like coleslaw with that?
Me: Absolutely.
Waitstaff (After a short wait): Here is your BBQ Sandwich.
HOLY FLYING FUCK! When I want coleslaw with my sandwich, that’s what I want! I do not want coleslaw ON the sandwich. I also don’t want to be viewed and treated as a Philistine when I request the coleslaw on the side.
In the name of all that’s Holy and Right, Memphis has some great BBQ going on—how about savoring that flavor in all its glory by itself, rather than masking it behind cabbage, mayonnaise, vinegar and sugar. Don’t you know what you have going on in terms of great BBQ? For the love of God, stop this practice and enjoy what you have in its unadulterated form!!
(To be fair, and to experience the culture, I did eat a BBQ Sandwich with coleslaw on it. It was better than it sounds, and better than I expected, but I’d still rather have my BBQ by itself to savor its smoky pork goodness.)
I felt the same way before I moved to the heart of North Carolina BBQ country.
The cole slaw of my experience, with BBQ and elsewhere, was always a dull, mayo-laden excuse for a side dish. Down here, though, there’s no mayo even near the slaw–it’s all finely-chopped cabbage and cider vinegar and deliciousness. It blends with a sandwich far better than your more traditional slaw.
I find that even when I don’t get a sandwich (which is usually, since I like the hush puppies they serve with BBQ around here), I’ll usually mix my pork BBQ with my slaw.
The restaurant chain Red, Hot, and Blue serves Memphis-style BBQ and they have a note printed on the menu that says the coleslaw is served on the sandwich. I love Memphis-style bbq, but I absolutely loathe mayonnaise so I always ask them to leave it off.
Now if they made their coleslaw like I do (with rice wine vinegar, roasted sesame seeds and almonds, and sugar), I’d have them put it all over the sandwich, but a coleslaw with mayo? Nooooo, thank you.
Coleslaw on the BBQ sandwich is not solely a Memphis thing. It’s also common in other parts of the southeastern US. Could be that it spread from Memphis, or could be that it came to Memphis - I’m not sure which. I’m sure that the purveyors in Memphis would tell you that it originated there, but I don’t know that to be a fact.
I used to work at a Red Hot and Blue, and making the slaw was part of my job.
It was seriously uninspired. My part of the process was to mix the bag of shredded lettuce and carrots with the jug of Cole Slaw Sauce.
This was almost ten years ago. That particular RH&B was situated in Lexington, KY just across from Billy’s BBQ, the best example of Western KY BBQ I know of east of I-65. RH&B closed a couple of years after I stopped working there. I don’t know how the hell they stayed open as long as they did.
I’m in Memphis too, and was absolutely shocked by this the first time it happened and about scraped my tongue off trying to get rid of the taste because I hate cole slaw. I think it’s called Carolina style…the truth is though that now 4 years later I LOVE my BBQ this way. It grows on you.
And it really pays to try it the authentic Memphis way before rejecting the idea. There are waaayy too many knock-offs around that jump on the idea while ignoring critical details in execution by dumping sweet mayo-based coleslaw onto the bbq. I had a “Memphis-style” bbq that way and had to pitch the thing out. The mayo seeped into the tomatoey bbq…major yuck. (And I like mayo, it just doesn’t belong on cabbage.)
The real thing is a slight jolt at first but it’s actually quite tasty once your taste buds open up to what’s going on. The slightly crisp cabbage is a nice counterpoint to the pulled pork. None of it is over-sauced, which is what kills most really excellent bbq in the first place IMO. It’s probably one of those things that just doesn’t travel well because the imitators don’t bother to get the essentials right to start with. They just glop their usual versions together and call it Memphis-style bbq.
Slight hijack: most excellent regional foods don’t export well. Consider all those pseudo Philly steak sandwiches that infest eateries. My particular gripe is Cincinnati chili, being a native. The real thing is wonderful–an honest and creative ethnic blending that long pre-dated “fusion” cuisine–but careless imitations are nothing less than horrible. Nice rant though.
I can’t imagine a pulled pork sandwich without slaw. Have any of you tried it? It is a great melange of contrasting flavors; hot, sweet, smoky, vinegary. What, your BBQ sandwiches are just a lump of meat and sauce on a bun? How boring!
I just love that this particular thread is in the BBQ Pit Forum.
I’m from West Tennessee originally – about 100 miles outside of Memphis. As long as I can remember eating BBQ (50 years or so), we have put our coleslaw on the bun just to save time and washing a plate. (Just eat it on the back steps.) I think we Southerners may tend to mix our foods together anyway.
I knew that my mother always put sugar in her coleslaw, but I didn’t realize that it was common. Everyone else’s coleslaw always seemed too tangy or sour to me. She also put Kraft mayo. I add a little Vegetable Delight.
Not all BBQ sauce is tomato based. The sauces that I associate most with West Tennessee look more like broth or gravy.
Oh, man. I wanna go home. I will have to make do with Middle Tennessee’s version of West Tennessee BBQ.
I certainly hope so–they’ve already lost Jozo’s and the club half of Lynagh’s since I left town. I’d hate to think that I was keeping all three of these establishments in business on my own, though I certainly wouldn’t be surprised.
Billy’s is in the Chevy Chase area, just after High Street crosses Euclid Avenue and becomes Tates Creek (I think). It’s right next to the hardware store, and Shopper’s Village Liquor is across the street. Go for the mutton, with some onion rings.
Screw that. I’m going for honest-to-god Western KY BBQ, as in a pork shoulder sammich.
Also, I found the website, and it looks like it’s actually on the same route I sometimes take to work, only I’d go straight instead of turning onto Marquis.
You have no idea how happy I am to have found this. Corky’s and Ol’ Happy Days just aren’t right, and I’d heard rumors about this place from people back home. Now I don’t have to bring Q back from Hill’s.
