I’m thinking about getting a motorcycle, but I don’t know where to start. It’s nothing like, say, getting a car, because I’m familiar with all manufacturers and know pretty much what I’d need. It’s alot different with a bike. I know that alot of the market is dominated by the Japanese manufacturers but there are some other brands (Harley, Triumph) as well. Would anyone know where I should start, or how I would go about finding a bike. I’m also open to recommendations and experience.
You’ll need an organ donor card.
Oddly enough, that’s not the first time that I’ve heard that :D.
Do you have money? if so, A custom chopper is the way to go. Watch American Chopper if you need an idea about that. They are quite pricey though, so if you have a budget more in line with the rest of us, go with a harley. In that range, A good Harley can’t be beat.
Yeah, I can see where a budget would come into play. I’m thinking that old mommy and daddy would pop for anything under what a used car would go for (say 8,000 and under). WAG, this means that a custom chopper would be out of the question. Also, I know that the type of bike that I’d want would be a sport/racer (whatever the hell you call them).
Don’t forget to factor in the costs of lessons, licensing and proper kit, whcih all add up. I’mnot sure what the licence requirements are where you live but here in NZ they’re a lot more stringent then a basic car licence and you’ll almost certainly need lessons before you can go out and ride.
As for bike choice, you’d probably be better to go for something small and inexpensive then the latest rocket with huge cc’s. I jumped on my cousins 750 when I was young and foolish and took it round the block. After many years of fooling around on farmbikes I thought I could handle it easy. While I liked the raw power of the thing a few corners soon made me realise that a bike that size takes a fair amount of strength to control. While I didn’t scratch anything, I came pretty close to losing it on the second corner and once I got back I haven’t touched a bike since…
I’m gonna say the same thing I say in almost every thread about a newbie getting a bike. Pick up The Idiots Guide to Motorcycles, it’s a good book to learn about motorcycles. There are sections about how to operate a bike, what to look for while you are on the road, and for people like you, a section on good bikes for beginers with prices and whether or not they think it’s a good first bike. Then find a local Motorcycle Safty Foundation course and take that. I think those are your first best steps.
The first thing you want to do is find out what you want in a bike.
Make a list of what’s important
You want to go fast?
You want to look cool?
You want to tour long distance?
You want to just commute around town?
Is maintennance cost a factor?
Would you rather do your own maintennance?
How big are you?
With these answered I can steer you further. You can email me if you’d rather or keep it here for other opinions
Forgot to mention you should prioritize those answers from what’s most important to what’s least
Edit’s not working for me for some reason
I must disagree. Harleys are heavy and underpowered. For example a Super Glide Sport weighs about 650 pounds with fuel and the stock engine makes about 60 horsepower. My Yamaha YZF-R1 weighs 426 pounds wet, and makes 144 horsepower. (Of course, the R1 is an extremely poor choice for a first bike!) Harleys are overpriced. They don’t maneuver very well. In California lane splitting is common. I’ve been stuck behind Harleys because they’re too wide in many cases to get through the “motorcycle lane”.
But then, they’re cruisers. (Or in the case of the Super Glide, they’re big standards.) I’ve never been attracted to cruisers, preferring sport bikes and standards. I would also find a Japanese cruiser to be heavy, unmaneuverable and underpowered. (“Underpowered” probably doesn’t really apply to the Yamaha V-Max. 
) Still, Japanese cruisers are much less expensive than Harleys and have a better reputation for reliability. (I understand Harley has improved their reliability over the years.)
But as simplee says, you have to decide what mission you want your ride to fulfill. Cruisers are great for going straight and for long distances. But if you are looking for something for commuting you might want to get a standard. I’ve put over 77,000 miles on my 1994 Yamaha Seca II/ (This one is not mine, but this is what they look like.) Not very powerful, but I’ve found that mine maneuvers very well. It’s also a small bike, which makes it easy to get around in city traffic. Just don’t try to keep up with your sport bike riding friends. (Coldfire has the European version called the “Diversion”, and I think he will agree with me that it’s a great little bike.) A Seca II makes a good learning bike since they are cheap, reliable, small, and good performers for their size. (Unfortunately, they are no longer made.)
I guess I should point out the various styles of bikes. A “standard” is… well, “standard”. They have tubular frames and an upright riding position. They generally do not have an excess of power, but they do move well – especially compared to cars. They tend to be the least expensive bikes. They make good bikes to learn on.
A “sport bike” is like a sports car. Fast, powerful and maneuverable. They generally have a stout frame made of box-sections instead of tubes. These are often called “crotch rockets” because of the riding position. A sport bike is a good choice in the same way a Porsche is. That is, they do what they’re designed to do well. But I wouldn’t want to ride across country on one if I had another bike to choose from.
“Cruisers” are what Harley Davidson makes. Unlike sport bikes where the riding position is like sitting on a race horse, or a standard which is like sitting on a bicycle, cruisers position the feet forward like a cowboy riding his horse. Cruisers are good at going long distances in comfort, but you’ll drag metal if you try to ride them like a sport bike. Honda and [Yamaha make small 250cc cruisers that would make great little learning machines. But at 250cc, you will outgrow them very quickly. On the other hand, a new Rebel has an MSRP of only $2,999.
“Touring” bikes are large and comfortable. Probably the best-known is the [url=“http://www.hondamotorcycles.com/motorcycles/touring_sport_touring/model.asp?ModelName=Gold+Wing&ModelYear=2003&ModelId=GL18003”]Honda Gold Wing](http://www.yamaha-motor.com/products/unitinfo.asp?lid=2&lc=mcy&cid=4&mid=24) which started out life as a naked musclebike “standard”; but for my money, I’d choose the Yamaha FJR1300. The FJR1300 is actually a “sport tourer”, which is a subclass of tourers that combines the comfort of a touring bike with the sportiness of a sport bike. Tourers are good if your want to go a long way comfrortably. I wouldn’t get one to learn on.
“Off-road” and “motocross” bikes are, well, for going off-road. They tend to be very lightweight and make good power. They’re suspensions are designed for rough roads and jumps. I see them on the freeways (the ones equipped and licensed for street use), but they’re really not designed for that role. Still, they’re excelent machines to learn on. IMO off-road riding makes for better street riders.
“Scooters” are step-through designs (i.e., your feet are in front of you, as iif you’re sitting in a chair). They tend to be cmall and don’t have a lot of horsepower. Some of the larger ones can be used on the freeway; but again, they are not designed for that. Scooters are best used in the city. They are inexpensive and very fuel-efficient. But since they are generally not considered “motorcycles” (although you need a motorcycle license to ride one), this probably isn’t what you want to get.
You can see that there is a “best type” of bike for whatever kind of riding you want to do. That doesn’t mean you can’t press one into service in another role. For example, my Seca II is designed to be economical transportation; yet I’ve taken it on rides from L.A. to San Francisco, Lake Havasu and Las Vegas. Not as comfortable or as powerful as a tourer, but it got the job done. My R1 is designed for fast riding on twisty roads, but I’ve commuted to the office on it. Not as comfortable as the Seca II in this role, but I do like having the power.
So getting back to what simplee said, decide what kind of riding you want to do, then look for a bike.
Another thing you should consider is getting a used bike. Used bikes can be very inexpensive, and you don’t have to worry so much about “learning mishaps”.
And look at what kiwiboy said. Be careful of biting off more than you can chew.
Take a riding course.
Sorry about the coding error. It whould have looked more like this:
Honda and Yamaha make small 250cc cruisers that would make great little learning machines. But at 250cc, you will outgrow them very quickly. On the other hand, a new Rebel has an MSRP of only $2,999.
“Touring” bikes are large and comfortable. Probably the best-known is the Honda Gold Wing
My experience (after taking the MSF course) was I kept looking until I bought a bike that [ul]
[li]Is basically a mountainbike with a motor that I can ride anywhere[/li][li]Isn’t too expensive[/li][li]Isn’t too powerful[/li][li]Is relatively lightweight and easy to maneuver [/li][li]Won’t kill me [/li][li]Can be bought and serviced locally[/li][li]Can pass the wife test (see 2nd and 5th items)[/li][/ul]
So I bought a Yamaha XT225 dual sport. It has enough power for most of the roads I ride.
But it doesn’t have nearly enough power for 55 mph + roads, so I guess I’ll just have to get another motorcycle one of these days 
I just got my motorcycle license yesterday, so if you havent already done so I would recommend like others have said to take the MSF course. Usually at the course they have a wide range of bikes that you can try (at least the place where I went did). But I would look at taking the course, buying your gear (gloves, helmet which is at least DOT approved, jacket, boots) For the bike, it would depend on your size, weight, and I would recommend a lower cc bike just because when you are learning it is lighter, more forgiving if you screw up. So i would start on a 250 cc. bike.
Kawasaki makes the a sport bike 250 the ninja, yamaha, honda, kawasaki, suzuki make 250 cruisers, and there are some standards I believe. I learned on a eliminator which is a cruiser, and I found it managable, and fun to learn on, I am 5’feet tall and 100 pounds, just to give you an idea and didnt want something too heavy wet. I also learned in the rain, which was good so I have an idea what it is like to drive in the rain. Btw, I have never driven standard or knew how to turn on a bike and by the end of the first day I was riding the bike. You will learn alot in the course and over here. Also when looking at bikes, get online quotes, because factors such as your age, sex, marital status, type of bike, discplacement are factors in cost wrt insurance. Have fun!
Going fast and looking cool aren’t big concerns.
I don’t want to tour long distance, just want something to get me around a fairly big city (San Antonio).
Cost and maintanence: I wouldn’t be handling either of those (I’d want to get a new bike and all repairs would be handled by a professional).
6’0", 150 lbs.
I haven’t taken a course (I figure that I should know exactly what I’m getting into before I spend money on a course to learn to ride a bike that I don’t even have yet) but I do plan on it as soon as I know exactly what I want.
- it seems as if you know what you want, mostly, which is good. Your weight/height is average enough that youcan more or less pick and choose.
You say you want a new bike, and while I know it sounds tempting, I would like to give the advice I was given back when: Buy a used Japanese standard for your first bike. They’re great learning tools, they keep their value surprisingly well, they’re cheaper to drop. After a year or so you’d probably like something more exotic (and with your recently aquired skills and knowledge, you’ll know why you want it), so you unload the beginner bike and buy the dream.
Used or new, buy something manageable. Don’t get fooled by cc’s - a Suzuki GSX-R 600 is an insane track-capable 120 HP sportbike that’ll accelerate you from zero to really serious problems in no time flat. OTOH, Suzuki Bandit 600S is a fun, reliable and quite powerful enough bike (65 HP) that is also, come to think of it, quite capable of getting you into more than enough trouble. I used to own one, loved it.
A little more aggressive in design than the Bandit is Suzuki’s SV-650 - a 650 cc 70 HP V-2 (the bandit, like most Japanese bikes, is an in-line four) that performs pretty damn well, does absolutely nothing wrong and is a blast to ride, to boot. Plus I like its looks. Hey, it counts.
I’d check those two out if I were you. Both of them - on the street - will leave you with perhaps a grand out of your 8K budget. I strongly advise to invest those in training and protective gear.
Let’s know what you decide!
flood, listen to Johnny L.A. and Spiny. If Coldfire shows up, he’s a great source too. These are three of the smartest riders I’ve ever listened to. Ypu can learn a lot from them. My personal suggestion is either a Kawasaki Ninja 500 or a Suzuki SV650, they get great reviews as beginner bikes. But still, those three know a lot more than me about motorcycles. Johnny has been riding for longer than I’ve been alive.
Yeah, thanks alot guys. This has really given me alot of information. I have a couple of questions though. What’s the difference in the power of a bike (under 600cc over 600cc etc.). I’ve found that 600 is the magical number or something and I’d like to know what it refers to. Also, how much more or less difficult is it to repair a motorcylce than a car. Some have told me that its alot more complicated and others have disagreed. Finally, how safe is it? I’ve heard alot of horror stories about bikes, but rarely anything about how safe it can be if you ride carefully and with the proper equipment.
I don’t much have riding experience, but I’ll still add this: Wear leathers and a full face helmet. Everyone will tell you their horror stories about a friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend’s daughter’s boyfriend’s cousin’s roomate who was horribly disfigured from seeing a motorcycle wreck. These are mostly ill-informed nincompoops. Here’s all of the proof that I need that leathers and a real helmet work: Watch an AMA or FIM Superbike race. Yes, those are controlled conditions, which is different from the street. But still, watching someone dump a bike at over 150 MPH, hit the tire wall, and then get up and walk away speaks volumes. When I eventually get my bike (Spring '05, right after I get a job), leathers will be bought.
Thanks, wmulax93
Ouch.
[sub]Actually, I did start riding when I was six. [/sub]
I agree with Spiny Norman about the Bandit 600. It’s pretty-much an improved Seca II.
600 refers to the engine displacement, nominally 600cc. Smaller bikes don’t do well on the freeway. Certainly a 500cc bike like the olf Honda CX500 (a Moto Guzzi style small touring bike) or a Suzuki GS500E (a small sport bike) can run the freeways, but generally a small engine really has to work to maintain good speed. 600cc bikes generally have enough power to maintain highway speeds.
Another displacement issue is the cost of insurance. Some (all? most?) insurance companies charge a higher premium for bikes over 700cc.
I don’t work on my own bikes. I used to, when I had the 250 Enduro, but I just don’t have the time, space or tools to work on my current bikes. One good thing about bikes is that everything is out in the open – unless you have a fairing, in which case you’ll need to take it off. Most bikes have two or more cylinders. Each cylinder has a carburetor, and the carbs have to be in synch. You’ll need to get a special tool for that. But for simple things like changing the plugs or the oil, you should have no problem.
Define “safe”. Or as Mr. Merriweather said in Little Big Man, “Everything in life contains a particle of risk.” There are things to look out for on a bike. Sand or gravel in the road can spoil your day. Rain can make the roads slick. But by being observant you can see the sand or gravel and take steps to avoid it or maneuver the bike to deal with it. The most irritating thing about rain is that it gets the bike filthy. I once crashed the Seca II when I was accellerating around a left turn and didn’t see the flattened aluminum can. My rear tire hit it and slid out from under me. But generally (I say that a lot) as long as your bike is in good working condition and you are observant and don’t ride beyond your capabilities, you don’t have much to worry about.
Except.
Except the cage drivers. People in cars will sometimes not see a motorcyclist even if they are looking right at him. More often they’re not looking, but playing the Left Seat Passenger. It sounds like hyperbole, and to an extent it is, but ride as if you are certain the cage drivers are out to kill you. Intentionally kill you. People in cars do all kinds of wacky things. After you’ve been riding a while you will pick up a “sixth sense” that will usually (but not always) tell you what boneheaded maneuver the car driver is going to do. Your senses will become more keen, as will your reflexes. You must be ready at all times to take evasive action – move laterally, brake, or often pour on the coals. (Heh. I’m getting an image of a steam powered, coal fired motorcycle.)
“Safe”, you ask? If you’re protected by leathers (either dead animal skin or synthetic), a full-face helmet, boots and gloves (do as I say, not as I do), you stand a good chance of escaping serious injury. But there’s always that “particle of risk”.
Going by personal experience, if it’s your first bike, I’d go with a Honda CBR400 - IMO, it’s about the best bike to wet your feet in before you’re comfortable enough to go for something more powerful.