My Google-fu is weak. I have a 1999 lawn tractor (we call it a ride-on mower in NZ) which I believe is a Castelgarden TCP 120 Hydro. Its sold as a Masport here.
I bought it from a friend knowing he was rough on equipment but also that it had been properly serviced. My mistake but no matter.
Found a workshop manual online for a slightly newer model but it is close enough and excellent.
Nevertheless the hydro transmission is treated as a sealed box mystery with such powerful spells that it can only be taken back to Mordor.
Can’t be specific about your particular tractor, but we just bought a Cub Cadet tractor and the salesman told us “Basically it’s a five-year tractor. The hydrostatic transmission is treated as a sealed unit and we don’t repair them, just replace.”
Seems to be the way they do it on lower-end products now.
Forgive me: I think long posts are difficult to read so have split this up.
My problems and questions are:
How is the hydrostatic transmission disabled on this machine in order for it to be easily moved around? Free-wheeling.
What was the hydro transmission used by Castelgarden in 1999? Probably Italian but could easily be American.
Is it possible to check the oil level and top it up? Drain and put in new oil?
What oil do I put in?
The problem is the mower lacks drive power - no problem with the motor or the cutting blades. Very fierce. I have just installed a new drive belt which has helped. When the mower is cold it drives (and reverses) enthusiastically but shortly after it fades as if its lost interest. This suggests low transmission oil or old oil.
I’ll set out a few pointers discovered on the net next.
Look under the seat for a lever to let the transmission freewheel. That’s where it was on the tractor I dumped because the engine was a piece of crap. I assume it is or based on a Dyna Hydro transmission which were, and maybe still are very widely used for tractors of all sizes. If it’s anything like mine was the problem isn’t the tranny.
Incidentally I originally asked some of this stuff on Gardenweb three years ago, with kind responses but no real help.
Transmission oil.
Dang this is a whole conundrum all by itself. I have no idea of the truth or otherwise of the following and welcome any help:
Advice - Auto transmission fluid - no no use 30W oil - nope use 20W/50 synthetic oil yadda yadda yadda. Or 90W (at least I’ve got some of that).
John Deere transmissions are sealed, cannot be topped up with oil, see manufacturer. Maybe that is true for all rider-mowers.
Gearboxes are made by a US company for American tractor mowers such as Sears and Qualcraft. What about Husqvarna and Viking? What about Castelgarden a European manufacturer (or maybe just a big marketer)?
Most riding-mower chassis, transmissions, and decks are made by two factories in the world and then shipped off to a dozen brands where different engines and paint etc are applied. If true then the transmissions will all be very similar.
Strangest of all in this connected world, there isn’t a strong forum with knowledgable people talking about ride on mowers. Chainsaws, stamps, Breaking Bad - yes plenty. :smack:
Cheers, appreciated. Incidentally there is a video I found from a guy explaining how the hydro works and how he needed a 4 foot crowbar to break open the unit.
I’m trying to be upbeat about the transmission, hoping it can be resurrected with new oil or such. Sometimes simply tightening an obscure nut helps.
As for the free wheeling, I realise newer machines have a lever or similar but darned if I can find one. Even the manual is no help.
The transmission on this machine does not directly drive the rear axle: instead it drives a small cog connected by a chain to the axle. If the chain was removed then it should free wheel but that is no easy task because most of the parts are covered by the tractor body. Removing the left rear wheel may give access to the chain.
Newer machines use a belt instead, and other machines drive the axle directly to the rear of the transmission.
I work with these transmissions daily. Some machines simply don’t have a freewheeling option. If they break down, they must be trailered or towed at no more than walking speed.
If you need to move it around while repairing it, you might look at the coupling and release or remove it. It may be a standard universal joint, or a flexible coupler of some design.
Just poking around, I found this page. If you search a little harder, I’m sure you can find a parts manual that breaks everything out.
I might look harder at the drive belt and tension spring adjustment. Make sure everything is nice and clean; no grease or gunk on the pulleys or belt. Ensure that all pulleys and other drive components are steady, sturdy, and not moving as with a failed bearing set.
While the hydrostatic motors/trannies that I work with are repairable/re-buildable, some consumer level units may not be.
When you get it running right, either use it yourself, or let your son mow the yard. Just don’t be like this guy.
“Hey mom! Mr. Wilson let me drive his lawnmower today! Tomorrow he’s showing me his darkroom!” :eek:
Thanks I originally posted on Gardenweb about 3 years ago which is how I worked out that this machine is a locally marketed Castelgarden. Might be a Sears machine in the US in 1999, can’t remember.
Gardenweb is very good but my searches on it brought up lots of similar unanswered questions and few ideas. For example, there are at least 4 different types of oil suggested for hydro transmissions.
Good man! At last, an expert. So there might not be a free-wheel lever at all? I will keep looking but can stop worrying about it now: if correct then the mower shops probably had a dolly they put under the rear wheels.
Incidentally I did ask mechanics about a release lever at two different shops and they didn’t know. One shop only dealt with Husqvarna and at the other the two mechanics were probably in grade school when this rider mower was sold. They were very puzzled.
I have found a parts breakdown for hydro transmissions, thanks for the suggestion. Today’s task is to try and find a manufacturers name and model number without having to take the mower body apart.
No expectation of repairing the trans - just want to replace the oil if possible. I agree with you about the drive belt - just got a new one - but not convinced its correctly tensioned.
Probably NOT an oil issue. At least not oil level. When the unit is cold the oil level is low was the unit warms up the oil expands and the level rises.
I am guessing (don’t work on mowers just cars) that it is a valve body issue. As the unit warms up pressure is bleeding off and causing it to slip.
The transmission is a Peerless Tecumseh 705-002 which is a whole lot more than I knew this morning. Its been widely used including in Cub Cadet lawn tractors, for which there is a forum.
There is no obvious oil inspection plug and any drain is concealed by the fan below the transmission input.
However there is a circular plate on the left front side which has a small hole in it, plus a warning that seven devils reside therein ie. factory warranty. It would be possible if tedious to squirt fresh oil through the hole with an oil can. Removing the plate is difficult.
The reason I mention oil is there are comments on other forums saying hydro oil breaks down over time and loses its hydraulic effectiveness. Some fresh heavy gear oil can solve this - not too much of course.
