need wiring diagram for a five-wire rocker switch

While replacing my power window motor and lift (which I assumed was the culprit), I was dismayed to find out that it isn’t the motor, and it is indeed the rocker switch that is the problem.

Still I want to make sure before I go to the store to buy the switch assembly, then go home and find out it’s the entire wire harness that’s effed up. I was thinking I would just complete the circuit, but don’t want to risk frying something.

I’ve found some circuit diagrams, but haven’t found the specific one I am looking for. It’s a rocker switch for the passenger door of a 2002 Honda Civic Ex 2-door Coupe (model# m20013 on the switch housing).

I’m not the best at finding this type of information, but if anyone could help me out. It might save me some gas (closest auto-part store is an hour away).

Thank you.

Since you aren’t getting helpful answers:
With 5 wires, and number of possibilities exist. Unless you can find a wiring diagram for that particular part number, the next best bet would to find a working version and use a continuity tester and see what does which. Assuming all it does is simple on/off switching, which it might or might not.
of course, if you had a working version…

Have you tried the parts dept at a dealer?

Well, this comes up googling: http://media.photobucket.com/image/2002%20honda%20civic%20window%20wiring%20diagram/tegpsi/EH2USDMLHDPowerWindowWiring2.jpg I’m assuming you can just ignore the rear seats for your 2-door.

I think you will find that on the bottom of the switch there will be a molded plug that only goes on one way to make changing the switch fairly idiot proof.

Sorry it took long to reply.

It’s not that I was worried about putting the switch on the wrong way, I was going to use some copper wires to send current to the motor. To make sure the wiring harness was okay.

It’s hard to return parts that have been “installed.” And one of those small plastic switches are about $80. Hopefully I can find one in a junkyard.

I think the safer thing to do would be to pull the switch and check it with a continuity tester like usedtobe suggested. The last thing you want to do is send current somewhere that it doesn’t belong and fry something (like the control unit). Are the terminals marked on the switch? According to that diagram I found, you should have continuity from E to C and B to C and A to nowhere with the switch off, A to D when you push “up” and A to C when you push “down”.

It looks to me like it grounds through the driver’s side switch, so it could just as easily be that one. Hopefully you find something wrong with the passenger side switch, because the driver’s side one comes with the control unit and is really expensive!

(BTW, Rockauto has the pass. side switch for 14 bucks-- I don’t know if that’s the same parts quality as what you’re looking at but it might be something to consider. It’d save you the drive into town anyways).

By which I mean:
According to that diagram I found, you should have continuity from E to D and B to C and A to nowhere with the switch off, A to D when you push “up” and A to C when you push “down”.