My 2002 Saturn SL1 has a cylinder problem which will probably require either an engine change or junking the car.
It has 110k miles, and is in good condition apart from the engine situation. And I like the car. So I’m thinking about doing the engine, and the clutch too while everything is apart. I’ve found a 25k engine for with a 1-year warranty for $600. My mechanic can install it and do the clutch for about $800 in labor.
Is this worth it? If it comes in under $2k I would hope to get another 100k miles from the vehicle. Is this a reasonable expectation? I really don’t want to buy a new car right now.
Financially speaking, I agree to go with the engine if you like the car. Getting another one is going to cost a lot more than that even used and there is also the chance that something could go wrong with it too.
Depending on where you live you might squeeze another 100k out of that car, but it will be an expensive 100k (suspension, drivetrain repairs, electrical system failures, etc).
If the cost is over or close to 2k I would consider just junking it (for 1400 i’d probably keep it but plan on replacing it in 50k instead of 100k). The blue book on that car is 2-3k (800 trade) so if the repairs are more than that, you’ve paid more than the car is worth. Again this is depending on location but for around 4-5k you can get a similiar sized car that would be a safer bet to see 100k more miles.
The number of vehicles that gets 10 mpg more than an SL1 is extremely limited, so cash for clunkers isn’t really an option.
I’m highly doubtful that you’ll get 100,000 miles out of that car, incidentally. You certainly won’t get 100,000 more out of the original transmission.
Have the struts been replaced recently (ie., in the last 50,000 miles)? If not, those will need to be replaced soon - figure it to cost somewhere between $700 and a grand.
I’m not saying that replacing the engine is a bad idea, just that keeping the vehicle running for 5 years will probably cost at least half as much as buying a new or gently used car - and you’ll be driving a 7+ year old car instead of a newer one.
A 7-year-old car is too new to junk. This isn’t the '70s, when even stuff from the alleged can-do-no-wrong Japanese made 'em biodegradable. I went 11 years on an original muffler for my '97 Ranger–in the '70s, the “good old days” when you could buy a car w/36 payments of only $100 or so, those cars usually needed shocks,exhaust work, or both by the 37th month.
If you should need expensive struts in a year or so, just remember how long the originals lasted, divide the cost by the number of months you got out of the originals, and compare to a new-car payment.
Remember,you’re getting a used engine. Throw out the maintenance schedule in the owner’s manual;change oil every 2,000 miles and flush coolant yearly. Also, be very vigilant about checking oil every gas fillup until you know about the “new” engine’s oil consumption.
You should get at least another 100K out of the car by endeavoring to maintain it better in the future.
If “they” arent going to give you any money for your old engine when they swap it out for the “new” one, you might consider stashing that baby somewhere to pull parts off later if you should need them.
Yeah, in economic theory an new old car might be better than your old old car economically and statistically speaking. But the difference is, you KNOW the history of your car. You get a new old car and there is not telling what in gods name the previous owner did to it.
It might be worth it to have your old old car looked over from top to bottom by a mechanic before you put a new old engine in. Inspect everything and do all the maintanence on stuff like the transmission, brakes, struts, linkages, steering stuff…
My high-end luxury car of model year 2001 is now worth approximately $3,000 (not a typo). If I had to replace a head (a real risk), it’d be about $1500 at my trusted, local mechanic. Transmission rebuild would be about $2000. Engine replacement with a used engine would be about $1000 plus the unknown-quality engine.
That’s trade-in value, because I’m pessimistic and go for the least common denominator. I could purchase another one of similar age and miles for about $4000 to $7000.
All told, I’d make the repair, even if it’s close to the value of the car. The car’s paid for. If I had to sell it, I’d at least get the repair value back out of it (so, break even). The biggest factor, of course, is that I know my car. Sure, I drove it hard, but I’ve never spared an expense in taking care of it. Slight wobble? I replace the tie rod ends, no questions asked. Manufacturer book says to replace the tranny fluid? I do so (manufacturer guidelines, not dealer guidelines!). I know every inch of my car, and how it’s been treated. There’s no way I can say the same thing about an otherwise identical vehicle, especially at 125,000 miles. As long as I keep taking care of it, there’s no reason I can’t get to 200,000 miles with the same ride comfort, performance, and handling (really, it drives the same today as it did when I bought it, because I take care of it).
Now, if a strange set of coincidences dictated the need for an engine, transmission, shocks, tires, and air leveling system at the same time, then I’d consider something else.
Steering gears? NOT. And my shocks are still going strong on my 2000 Saturn SL1. In fact, I haven’t had to replace ANYTHING on the car.
Saturns have plastic body panels which don’t rust and the engine has a steel timing chain. They’re built to endure. In this case, it’s a stick shift so the owner is getting a new clutch in the deal so there isn’t an automatic transmission bill hiding in the wings.
I would consider spending the money but I would also replace the hard to get at heater hoses while the engine is out.
My girlfriend fell for the “25k from Japan”* engine scam. Dead, serious lower end rod knock/rod failure after 10k miles. Warrenty about 7 minutes expired.
I would NOT swap engines in little toys like Toyotas, Saturns and such. Somebody posted earlier that this isn’t the 70’s. Agreed. Back then, any given model would come with 2 or maybe 3 power options. Componants were interchangable. Not your Saturn. It was designed around that specific engine, and when it goes, scrap it. Chances are most of the other stuff is about toast anyway.
Normally, I would be a hard-core “replace the engine” guy. But I financed a failed scenario first-hand. Unless you actually verify where that engine came from, and actualy milage, don’t fall for it.
*We were given a line of BS about “japanese cars need to exchange engines (because of tighter emission standards) after 25k and then the sell them to the US, good as new!” or some such shit. At the time, she was desperate, and it “seemed” like the financially responsible alternative. That car is now sitting in my front yard, dead as shit, from a massive engine (rod bearings/rod) failure.
I dunno. I have a 1994 Celica that I’ve had for 3.5 years now, and the only thing we’ve had to repair on it was the alternator. We’ve put $300 in that car since we’ve had it, and it runs perfectly. Not a thing wrong with it, as far as I can see. I love that car.
It’s a Continental. Not sure what the confusion is, though… the fact that a $40,000 luxury car is only worth $3000* today? Well, it’s a domestic car; they don’t hold their values. It’s certainly in fantastic shape, though. The only real work on it has been front end stuff, but I credit the great state of Michigan for that, and not Ford Motor Company.
*You made me doubt, and it’s even worse than that. Edmunds is telling me $2177 as dealer trade in, $4704 as dealer retail! Still, there’s no way I’d ever consider selling at $4704, unless, like I said, the engine, transmission, and other subsystems all simultaneously failed.
I have to make a decision today, and I’m leaning toward going with the engine/clutch replacement. They are holding the engine for me until today. Also, my inspection is due at the end of the month. So if I did decide to buy a new car, I’d have to do it quickly, which I don’t think is a good position to be in as a customer.
