These are on a piece of 1960’s equipment I am restoring.
They look like Molex connectors, and have the very same type of crimp on the back of the pins (one crimp for the insulation, a second crimp for the conductor).
But they aren’t modern Molex connectors. I’d really like to find some identical connectors.
I have included a standard 9 pin Molex connector next to the questioned one in both photos.
The closest I could find was a certain type of connector that was commonly used in motorcycles. Do a Google search for 2.8 mm 9-pin connector. I don’t think it’s an exact match.
They might very well be Molex connectors.
But, 60 year old ones, which are long obsolete.
Any numbers on the plug or socket? That would help immensely.
What is that device?
Any moral objection to just replacing the connector with current-day Molex? And why are you looking to find more of the old ones? Looks like you’ve got the socket on the chassis and its mate on the mechanism. (What is this - a jukebox?)
Here’s a couple of answers.
Looked a bit off, just about as close as the modern Molex does.
I am afraid that may be the case.
That’s all I got. The other half is way to annoying to get out of the box it’s mounted in.
A Seeburg ‘1000’ Background Music System. The project is almost complete!
The fake Molex connectors go between the mechanism/turntable and the zinc-chromate-plated steel box in the bottom right corner.
I was considering that, and currently am avoiding swapping these connectors.
The technical manuals and schematics all have references to the A B C, 1 2 3 coordinates of the old-school plug, and the one in the amplifier box has some annoyingly short wires on the inside that would be challenging to deal with.
They even stuffed two wires in a couple of the pins.
The main reason why I would like to find these connectors is because I want to make a tester box that I can plug into either of the two available Seeburg turntable models (they have slightly different wiring) while outside of the enclosures. That way I can repair the mechanical parts on my bench while being able to run it through its paces.
Some poking later, looks like they’re AMP Universal Power connectors.
Pictures, data sheets, and best of all - suppliers - are listed here. Looks like you need to buy the connector shells and the contact tabs separately.
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/AMP_Universal_Power
Forgot to say: that thing is gorgeous!
Looks like @gotpasswords has it! I agree those are gorgeous!
They don’t look identical to me.
The cable end connector pictured in the OP has no dividers in it (just pins sticking out), where the Amp connectors have individual “cells.”
Try contacting DigiKey. That’s how I did in the olden days. There may be a compatible Molex connector. You can try searching through their connector catalog in the ‘Blade Type Power Connectors’. You can even download a .csv of the data to simplify your search.
Just commenting that I used to work in electronics and this is standard practice. The pins always come seperate from the housing.
This is an EXCELLENT video presentation of a Seeburg 1000 machine.
And here is where you can listen to Seeburg 100 records recorded off an actual machine!
I was able to glean the following from the (pdf) Seeburg 1000 Service Manual:
The socket (which is the part attached to the panel in your photo) is Seeburg part number 84315. See J113 on pages 26 (schematic) and 27 (parts list) of the service manual pdf.
The shell for the matching plug is Seeburg part number 233409; contacts are Seeburg part number 941757. See item 51 on page 28 (drawing) and 29 (parts list).
I found a parts list on page 88 which (confusingly) shows both 84315 and 233409 listed as AMP part number 480086-1. Unfortunately (although not suprisingly) the TE Connectivity (who manufacturers AMP connectors) show part 480086-1 as obsolete.
Thanks for the info. Obsolete.
Of course, that’s the name of the game with a machine like this. These things were built like tanks, weighing in at around 40-50 lbs, so few parts break. When they do, they are a problem.
As an example, one common problem with the Seeburg 1000 mechanisms is the rubber motor coupling drying out and breaking. This part is unobtanium…unless you want to pay this guy on eBay $225 for it.
So I ended up machining my own from scratch, and it came out perfect. The hard part was figuring out how to fashion a reliable rubber coupling with just the right amount of flex.
See the eBay auction above to see the real part; here’s my own rendition:
Nowadays I’m fiddling around with various thin gauges of music wire, making teeny springs on the lathe to replace old sagging springs that have lost their stretch.
Very nice!
I hear that is worth $225 on ebay…