Well, this is quite a tenuous connection but I occasionally wash up in to The George and Dragon in Downe Village. I now live pretty much on a clear border between urban London and suburbia (it all changes in about three streets). Suburbia lasts for three or four miles before the countryside begins. Downe Village is another two miles on.
It’s a cracking little village completely off the beaten track with three decent boozers, the usual olde church, village store, etc. and, a little up the road, Darwin House.
It’s just a nice country pub where I like to have a bite to eat, a Light Ale and just imagine what it may have been like 150 years ago – the people pottering around, the carriages churning down the lanes, the rural economy This is an extract of a letter sent by the owner of (what became known as) Darwin House shortly after moving to Downe:
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To Catherine Darwin [24 July 1842]
[12 Upper Gower Street]
Sunday
My dear Catty
You must have been surprised at not having heard sooner about the House… Emma & I only returned yesterday afternoon from sleeping there.-I will give you in detail, as my Father would like, my opinion on it.-Emma’s slightly differs.-Position.-about ¼ of a mile from small village of Down in Kent 16 miles from St. Pauls-eight miles & ½ from station, (with many trains) which station is only 10 miles from London-This is bad, as the drive from the hills is long.-I calculate we are two hour’s journey from London Bridge… Village about 40 houses with old walnut trees in middle where stands an old flint Church & the lanes meet-Inhabitants very respectable.-infant school-grown up people great musicians-all touch their hats as in Wales, & sit at their open doors in evening, no high-road leads through village.-The little pot-house, where we slept is a grocers-shop & the land-lord is the carpenter-so you may guess style of village-There are butcher & baker & post-office.-A carrier goes weekly to London & calls anywhere for anything in London, & takes anything anywhere.-On the road to the village, on fine day scenery absolutely beautiful: from close to our house, view, very distant & rather beautiful-but house being situated on rather high table-land, has somewhat of desolate air-There is most beautiful old farm-house with great thatched barns & old stumps, of oak-trees like that of Shelton, one field off.-The charm of the place to me is that almost every field is intersected (as alas is our’s) by one or more foot-paths-I never saw so many walks in any other country-The country is extraordinarily rural & quiet with narrow lanes & high hedges & hardly any ruts-It is really surprising to think London is only 16 miles off.-The house stands very badly close to a tiny lane & near another man’s field-Our field is 15 acres & flat, looking into flat-bottomed valleys on both sides, but no view form drawing-room, wh: faces due South except our own flat field & bits of rather ugly distant horizon.-Close in front, there are some old (very productive) cherry-trees, walnut-trees-yew.-spanish-chesnut,-pear-old larch, scotch-fir & silver fir & old mulberry-trees make rather a pretty group-They give the ground an old look, but from not flourishing much also give it rather a desolate look. There are quinces & medlars & plums with plenty of fruit, & Morells-cherries, but few apples.-The purple magnolia flowers against house: There is a really fine beech in view in our hedge.-The Kitchen garden is a detestable slip & the soil looks wretched from quantity of chalk flints; but I really believe it is productive. The hedges grow well all round our field, & it is a noted piece of Hay-land This year the crop was bad, but was bought, as it stood for 2£ per acre, that: is 30£.-the purchaser getting it in-Last year it was sold for £45.-no manure put on in interval. Does not this sound well ask my father? Does the mulberry & magnolia show it is not very cold in winter, which I fear is the case.-tell Susan it is 9 miles from Knole Park-6 from Westerham-seven from Seven-Oaks-at all which places I hear scenery is beautiful.-There are many odd views round our house deepish flat-bottomed valley & nice farm-house, but big white, many, ugly fallow fields; much wheat grown here – --…etc, etc…
Charles Darwin.
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Several family members are buried in the churchyard directly across the road from the pub – in fact, Darwin himself wanted to be buried there but, on his death, his peers persuaded his family that Westminster Abbey was more appropriate. I’d imagine that decision rather saved the village from some of the horrors of modern tourism.
For the purposes of this thread, The George and Dragon has a ‘Darwin Bar’. Although I’m not sure if Charlie ever stuck his head in the door, he must certainly must have walked past it most days.
Excellent pub food, good choice of beers, lovely location and a bit of history thrown in: A nice Sunday lunchtime ! - and does that sound like I’m getting old…