Has anyone had any experience replacing windows, specifically with hurricane rated impact windows? I’ve gotten a few bids, and am finding the price prohibitavely expensive with variation between bids, despite some of the contractors offering the same product. For example, an impact rated 8 ft sliding glass door was quoted at over $4K, and small double-hung window $500 (installed price).
I understand the materials and manufacturing for large panes of impact glass are high, but am curious if any of you have done similar work and what your experience was, how it was priced, etc. We looked at non-impact glass which is cheaper, but the building codes here in FL require other protection (such as impact fabric or coverings/shutters). When you add it all up its not much cheaper and a lot more hassle (plus, we prefer the security, weather protection, and sound deadening of the impact glass).
There is a high profit margin in the plastic framed window arena. It’s a bit narrower in aluminum framed versions and even less in real wood. The main reason is manufacturing cost. Plastic can be formulated and extruded much faster and cheaper than aluminum ore can be refined and extruded and at a fraction of the cost and time that it takes to grow and process a tree. That’s why many homeowners get an initial quote of $50k for pvc windows but by the time the contract is signed the price has magically dropped to $30k. That won’t happen with aluminum or wood because the cost of wood windows is the benchmark by which the other 2 are measured.
Unfortunately if you opt for a quality aluminum impact window you’re stuck not only with the heart-stopping initial cost, you’re also stuck with the expense, mess and inconvenience that goes along with them when they break. It’s simply the nature of the beast. Whether you purchase impact windows or non-rated windows, the ONLY way to keep them from breaking when they are struck is to cover them with an approved form of impact protection. Regardless of what you may have been led to believe, there is no such thing as a commercially available ‘hurricane proof’ window. Simply go to any online video website, do a search for ‘impact window testing’ and see what happens to EVERY BRAND of impact rated window - they simply don’t survive - period.
Although pvc windows are much cheaper up front, they carry some baggage. They don’t last as long (only 20-30 years i n southern climates) and they are an environmental nightmare. Processing pvc gives off poisonous gases that must be contained during manufacture - many of the chemicals used to manufacture pvc are already banded in Europe and the U.S. window manufacturers are trying hard to downplay this fact. Because many of these poisonous chemicals leech out over time, disposing of old windows and other pvc construction materials (like vinyl siding and flooring) are prohibited in many landfills for fear of groundwater contamination. Pvc is not conducive to conventional, cost effective, recycling methods.
So, if you’re dead set against using anything other than impact windows, you’re stuck, but there are other options that will accomplish what you want without ending up with a pile of broken glass and a hefty replacement bill, construction mess and having a bunch of strangers crawling throughout your home - not to mention a horrible carbon footprint. Remember, no matter which type or brand of window you choose, breakage is the reality. Good luck in your hunt.
We do not get hurricanes here in Alberta so I am unfamiliar with that aspect, but I’ve installed a lot of windows.
Installing windows in new construction is very efficient but replacing windows is very labor intensive to do right. One of the main issues is tying into the existing exterior finish and envelope. This can be avoided by using ‘inserts’. This method uses the existing window frames so does not disturb the exterior (or interior) trim. Inserts are not always a viable option, but when they are offer a huge saving in labour.
I would certainly talk to the municipality’s building and permits department and find out what they want to see. Confirm with your contractor that they install to those standards. Lots of contractors do not, I see a lot of improperly installed, insulated or weatherproofed window installations.
Two years ago I replaced all my windows with double pane thermal impact resistant windows. That’s eight large double-hung sash type and two 16 foot 3-panel sliders. Plus a front and side entrance door both replaced with thermal, impact, and water intrusion resistant doors. All my stuff is aluminum framed. The doors are steel.
Yup, not cheap. The prices you mention are in the low ballpark.
OTOH, net of what it saves me on hurricane insurance and on air conditioning my time to payback is about 6 years. Which is a pretty juicy APR on a nearly risk-free investment.
As you’ve probably noticed, FL is a hotbed of shoddy contracting. The best thing you can do is check out their previous jobs. Happy customers, but not clueless customers is good. As are installations that are holding up without leakage or warping or …
As suggested above, talk to your city permitting folks about how the job is supposed to be done. Things like number and depth of anchors into the walls, etc. Ensure the bid describes in detail how that will be done.
If you’re in North Broward or South PBC give me a PM and I’ll give you my contractor’s info. If you’re farther afield I can’t offer much more advice.
EvolutionShutter - I am in Florida, and code requires impact glass if you are replacing more than a certain percentage of your existing. So, impact it is. I don’t know if manufacturing vinyl is worse than aluminum, but it seems to be the trend here (perhaps, as you note, the margins might be higher).
Anyway, thanks for the input all - was curious more for price comparison purposes, but I’ve gotten two bids so far that are on the lower end compared to the others - it just surprised me how variable they are.
Double-check with your building dept. To my knowledge, impact windows are a requirement ONLY if you do not have a plan in place for additional hurricane protection - i.e. approved hurricane protection. Most code requirements consider the window opening as a whole, not just the window, itself.
I have both impact windows and exterior metal shutters that are either accordion fold or roll-down depending on the area protected. There’s nothing to store; they’re permanently attached to the building exterior.
So that’s an option you might consider. FWIW, the last contractor I talked to said the metal shutters are sort of yesterday’s solution and everybody is going towards impact windows. The upside to windows is you avoid the rather ugly shutters; the protection is mostly invisible.
The downside for homeowners is that many impact windows will be damaged in a storm and need replacing. My double-panes are designed with the impact resistant layer on the inside and the thermal layer on the outside. With the result that although the wind and water will probably be kept out, I’ll get to replace several of them when the ordinary glass outer thermal layer is destroyed by hurricane-driven debris.
Which is why I kept the shutters after adding the windows mostly for appearance and thermal reasons.
We often see homeowners nailing plywood over their windows during times of hurricane to protect them. The best possible solution is impact windows and hurricane shutters protecting home’s openings during a hurricane. Impact windows are popular because of their shatter-resistant glass fastened to a heavy duty frame. The main feature includes two impact resistant glasses bonded together by a layer of PVB film.
How to identify impact windows?
Check for the permanent mark in one corner of the glass ( brand name, place of fabrication, thickness, certification (if any) and date of manufacturing).
Check for a temporary label (a removable label by the manufacturer)
Examine the reflection in the glass- you should find two different reflections.
The impact resistant windows should meet building standard codes to be certified as impact resistant. They should withstand missile impact test, and both the center and corners of the windows must hold together to pass this test. Above all check for product and installation warranty. Refer this article on things to look for in window warranties http://canglow.ca/things-to-look-for-in-window-warranties/.