I’m about to start looking into getting the windows replaced in my house. The house has the original ~75 year old single-pane wooden windows, most of which no longer function properly. It also has storm windows, which I’m assuming are helping some with energy efficiency, but they are very difficult to slide up to open to be able to get fresh air in.
So what are the things I should be looking for as far as new windows and the installers? What are common gimmicks or sales pitches that I need to watch out for? How do I determine between aluminum, vinyl or fiberglass? With modern windows, do I still need to keep the storm windows (I’ve really come to hate these damn things)?
Milgard, in my opinion, offers good quality for a good price. Obviously if your windows are a standard size, it will be much cheaper. I work a property management company, when I price windows out at local suppliers/installers most are very comparable.
Expect to pay about $600-$700 a window depending on your location. If your home was built before 1978, installers might hit you up for the lead paint issue.
Get multiple bids from multiple window providers, and don’t ignore smaller local companies. Don’t get talked into buying something you don’t need, but energy-efficient windows are standard these days. Also, talk to neighbors and friends and find out who they have used in the past to get a good idea of who to avoid.
Also, many people prefer aluminum due to the slimmer profile. But vinyl offers better energy-efficiency. The structural strength advantage of aluminum is over-rated in my opinion. It’s true they are, but you should not need anything stronger than vinyl. Plus aluminum windows can be 30 - 60% more than vinyl.
I’d stay away from aluminum. I’m not even sure if anybody still makes them. Double (or triple) pane windows don’t need storm windows. Triple pane does offer a significantly higher U-value of insulation, but the cost differential can be significant. If you really want better heat/cold performance, go with cellular PVC frames, but vinyl is fine (and much cheaper).
See if your heating utility company offers rebates. Mine did - not a lot, but something - I think it was $50 per window.
Agreed that you no longer will need storm windows. My new double-pane windows are warmer now than when I had single pane plus storm windows.
Of the windows I looked at, fiberglass was a bit nicer than vinyl. But the cost difference was more than I wanted to pay for windows in my bedrooms that wouldn’t be seen very often. I went with Milgard vinyl. If I replace the dining room windows, I may go with fiberglass.
Do you like the look of your interior/exterior window trims and casings? As in, are the also original to the house, and you want to keep them?
If so, look into “inserts”. Here’s a Google AI rundown:
Insert window replacement (or pocket installation) involves installing a new window unit directly into the existing, sound frame after removing the old sash and hardware. This method preserves existing interior/exterior trim and siding, providing a quicker, less invasive, and cost-effective alternative to full-frame replacement.
Andersen Windows Key Aspects of Inserting Windows:
Best Use Case: Ideal when the existing window frame is structurally sound, without rot, and you are satisfied with the current size/location.
Process: The old sash, stops, and parting stops are removed, leaving the outer frame intact. The new unit is inserted, leveled, shimmed, and sealed.
Advantages: Lower cost, minimal disruption to interior drywall or exterior siding, and faster installation.
Limitations: Slightly reduces the glass area compared to the original window. It cannot be used if the existing frame is rotted.
They are actually pretty easy to do if you are someone who is a bit more “handy” than the average person.
We got double pane windows 20 years ago or so - where I live it never gets that cold. They are great both for energy efficiency and blocking noise.
I think we looked at several suppliers. The one we had was local, I think, and they did an excellent job.
Only one gotcha - my wife’s office had a small window, but it officially counted as a bedroom, and they had to make a bigger hole to be up to code. The rationale is to allow people in the room to escape if access to the door is blocked.
What we need is even simpler than that. About 20 years ago we spent around $5K and got new vinyl windows, large picture windows with sliders in 4 rooms, and a smaller but otherwise similar window in the 2nd upstairs bedroom. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the frames, but two panels (one a slider half, the other a stationary half) had the gas leak out, and then they got a lot of condensation which then got dirty, and now those panels are opaque to varying degrees. I would like to just replace the two insulated glass panels and re-use the same frames. Is that likely to be possible without a huge hassle, or a long turnaround time? I don’t think they were standard sized windows.
I’ve been stewing about this for some time, for some reason. I seem to be paralyzed by fear of salespeople or something.
Is the company that installed your windows 20 years ago still around and in business? We (and our daughter) have replacement windows from that long ago, on some of them had seal leaks causing condensation between the panes. Despite the years, that company (happily) replaced the glass panels, since they have lifetime warranty (which is transferable to new owners). Give them a call and ask about the warranty.
I had a similar problem. The carpenter reframed the openings to fit a standard sized, off-the-shelf Andersen window. I got the double hung that can tilt in for cleaning.
It helped that most of the windows were identical sized. He used the same approach reframing each opening. Cut all the wood to the same sizes. It’s not difficult reframing and making the opening slightly smaller.
I sought out a carpenter that I used before and knew his quality of work.
I think a construction company would be more expensive.
Having worked on the Pella business for a few years: if you live in an area where termites are an issue, you won’t want wooden windows.
Beyond that, the advice already given is a good one: talk to several different brands/dealers, don’t let yourself get pressured into heavy selling tactics (Pella and Renewal by Anderson are bad about that), and consider how important it is to you that you keep the same general look that your current windows have.
You should not need to. Modern double-pane windows do the job that the old storm windows were meant to do, as far as insulation.
Expect to get no more than 20 years out of vinyl windows. They expand and contract too much with temperature changes. If you can go fiberglass then do it. If you care a lot about the look, Marvin, Pella, and Andersen are the go-tos, in that order, in quality and price. They also have various product lines and materials, but their highest end is going to be aluminum-clad wood windows with the aluminum on the exterior and wood interiors. Marvin has all-fiberglass and fiberglass/wood windows for instance. That could matter if you have stained wood interiors that you want to match.
If your existing windows have muntins, i.e. each sash is divided into multiple panes of glass with small wood grids, then you’ll need to decide if and how you want your new windows to replicate that. The best option is simulated divided lites (SDL) which have permanently-affixed grids on both sides of the glass plus a metal spacer bar in between the two panes of insulated glass to get the most authentic look. Cheaper options have no spacer bar, removable grids, or just grills-between-the-glass (GBG) which look tacky.
Also note that in this day and age, the higher end products are essentially all custom. There’s no real price break for sticking to standard sizes since everything is made-to-order anyway, so you might as well get the best fit to minimize any wall modifications.