Tell me about Ann Arbor

So, I’m currently considering graduate school at the University of Michigan. Although UMich is the best program I got into, I’m worried about spending the entirety of my 20’s in Ann Arbor (I’m currently 23, and my grad program is 7-8 years). I grew up in NYC, went to college in Chicago, and while I don’t need to live in a large city, I do want to live somewhere where I can:
a) find a spouse
b) find a good neighborhood bar
c) find decent ethnic restaurants
d) find good food markets
e) all of the above

What say you Dopers? Is Ann Arbor the best, the worst, or somewhere in between?

The best.

I have known Ann Arbor since I was 9 years old and I lived there for 6 years as an undergraduate student. I consider it my home town. Keep in mind that this is from someone who grew up poor in a small town, so I may perceive things a bit differently–though I do work in Manhattan now, so I can make somewhat of a comparison.

It is a liberal, wealthy town comprised predominantly of liberal, wealthy students. As far as diversity goes, you won’t get the same level of diversity as you would, say, from a Chicago or a New York City, but there are folks of all types, and a great number of international students. During my time there I was friends with 1st and 2nd generation Chinese, Indian, Latino and Muslim students. It is similar to a big city in that nobody is particularly fazed by people from other cultures. Second languages are in abundance, and there is a thriving and active LGBT crowd.

As far as food and entertainment goes, Main St. is full of unique places. There is a nice live jazz club called Good Night Gracie as well as a comedy club, a handful of campus night clubs, some fabulous upscale restaurants like Gratzi and its next door neighbor La Dulce Vita. There are other places off campus such as Zimmerman’s which provide excellent food if you’re willing to shell out the dough. There are a ton of small, independent-owned boutiques. If you leave campus you can find a fair amount of farmer’s markets and organic food stores. There is a large organic food movement here and most of the townies I know participate in some kind of communal food system. Ann Arbor is a cappuccino drinking, hybrid-driving, weed-smoking hippie town, but the hippies have money and a good education.

Because everyone is so rich, the University has state-of-the-art computer labs and resources and is always on the forefront of developing technology and research. This includes medicine–there is a huge university hospital complex which provides excellent medical care; just stay the hell away from University Health Services. If you are a doctoral student you are going to have excellent benefits–my husband was a research assistant after he graduated and I must tell you University of Michigan really takes care of their own. If you’re into sports, which I’m not, University of Michigan is obsessed with them and you’ll have no problem getting your fill of exciting sporting events.

I am extremely proud of my alma mater and the only really negative thing I can think of to say is that the beurocracy is a bit much. It may be different as a graduate student but as an undergrad it was very easy to get lost in the red tape. It is a huge school. Also, housing is very expensive, but possibly you wouldn’t notice a difference if you are from the city.

There is a beautiful Arboretum, a lovely botanical garden and a couple of small-time museums, but you aren’t going to get anything like The Met. We have decent theatre-- at the Power Center I’ve seen performances by the Royal Shakespeare Company–but we aren’t Broadway. There are always, if you are interested, student-held dance performances and theater and choral groups. It’s a very artsy town, and there is an annual Art Fair every year which showcases some really spectacular talent. It is huge and usually takes up blocks of campus.

For the record, any city-dweller who knows where I am from has remarked that they love Ann Arbor. There are a ton of students from New York City at the University and they seem quite comfortable here. There are such a vast number of students I should think you wouldn’t have difficulty finding people you relate to, including a future spouse. I think it’s a good place for people who are curious about the small-town, Midwest existence but who are terrified of running into backwards, racist hicks. Michigan has a lot of these people but they avoid Ann Arbor. It’s like its own private bubble of political and ideological thought. It is very insular in that way.

God I am so jealous of you. I hope to go home someday.

You will love Ann Arbor, for all of the reasons listed above. We live about 30 minutes away and it’s one of our favorite destinations.

Not only that, but the school is one of the best places to learn on the face of the planet.

Also, we’ve got a group of Dopers that gets together semi-regularly. Actually, we’re getting together on the 10th in Ann Arbor.

ahem Ms. **haze **ahem

Personally, of Mid-West college towns I think that Madison, WI has a slight edge, but Ann Arbor is a hard running second, and will satisfy all of your requirements with room to spare. I wish I’d gone there for school.

Ann Arbor is also easy driving distance to a “big city”, although that city is unfortunately Detroit. Still, it’s easy to get in and out by air, car, or rail, and you have plenty of opportunities for pretty much any activity short of alpine skiing or deep sea diving. It’s certainly better than being stuck in West Lafayette or Terra Haute.

Stranger

I live between Detroit and Ann Arbor. If I take visitors into Detroit for any reason, we immediately drive to Ann Arbor afterward to eat, people watch, browse bookstores, relax in the Arb, go drinking, see a show etc.

I think the answer to all of your questions is yes, without a doubt.

I think you mean Zingerman’s, and they make some of the best sandwiches on earth (Oprah thinks so!).

To echo what everyone else said, very liberal, very clean, very green, great food, great entertainment. There are Indian, Ethiopian, Middle Eastern, Polish, German, Vegetarian etc. restaurants to choose from.

Yes, there are neighborhood bars, although you might have to drift off campus a bit.
For what it’s worth, I met my spouse just outside of A2, and thinking back, 2 of my sisters met their spouses in A2…so people do hook up there :wink:

IMHO, A2 is one of the best cities there is, and definitely the best in Michigan. It’s the only town I would live in if I had to go back.

I live in Ann Arbor!

It’s pretty sweet. I lived in Chicago from 2003-2006 and it’s definitely not as diverse as a big city, but for a city of this size, it’s fantastic. Lots of different sorts of restaurants, people from all over the world, great community appreciate for diversity. Lots of good used bookstores. Public transit is not fantastic, but pretty good for a city of this size, and GREAT by Michigan standards. I don’t have a car and I do okay.

To counter what olives said, I am a grad student at UM in one of the professional schools and I definitely do not feel lost in bureaucracy. There are about 200 students in my program and the administration knows who each and every one of us are. May I ask what program you are interested in?

One weird thing, if you’re used to living in a place that, say, doesn’t revolve entirely around one thing, is how into the university everyone is. It is by far the largest employer in all of Washtenaw County and it seems like everyone in Ann Arbor is connected to it in some way. Football season is HUGE; I don’t care, but I have to check ESPN to see when the games are so I can arrange my grocery shopping around game traffic. There’s not a whole hell of a lot going on outside of the university, so everyone is very devoted to it. OTOH, a lot is going on inside the university, so you never run out of stuff to do. (Not like you have a whole lot of spare time when you’re a grad student.) Also, the presence of a non-auto industry has insulated Ann Arbor to some extent to Michigan’s imploding economy.

People here who want to have a weekend in the city usually go to Chicago, not Detroit. It’s about a three hour train ride.

Umm…oh, and Zingerman’s is awesome. They have, I am not kidding, the best hot chocolate in the world. They make it with Scharffen-Berger chocolate. It’s delicious.

:smack: Yeah that’s what I meant. It’s been a while. I am particularly fond of their cheeses. One thing that’s pretty much guaranteed living in Ann Arbor is good cheese.

Oh yeah, and I wasn’t even thinking about this, but I *did *meet my spouse there, during freshman orientation eight years ago. That’s a success story if I’ve ever heard one.

7-year resident of Ann Arbor here.

AA has a lot of great restaurants but they aren’t usually in the most obvious places. (most of the Main street restaurants cater to parents and are rather overpriced and underwhelming).

For example, there are many Chinese restaurants in Ann Arbor convenient to campus; most of them suck. However, down on Carpenter Rd (which is pretty much in Ypsilanti, near the Showcase movie theater) there is a Hong Kong-style place called Great Lake. Has all the exterior charm of a concrete bunker, but inside you’ll find “choose your own adventure/dinner” fish tanks, and a specials menu to die for. On an average night, 1-2 tables are not asian.

Or take Korean food. There are several good places on South University near campus, I prefer Coffee Break, known also as “Kang’s” I’m not sure what the sign actually says these days. It’s a hole in the wall, but cheap and tasty - it is hard to get a table though. I like their bibimbop. Oddly, it competes with another Korean restaurant only two doors down. On northside there is a Korean/Philly Cheesesteak shop (really) next door to an indian grocery store.

Tuptim is a thai place on Washtenaw which is clearly in a converted Long John Silver’s - but inside it’s very pretty!

I met my husband there – its a pretty good town for the 20s-30s – only downside is everyone moves away eventually…

Thanks for all the responses! This is definitely assuaging some of my fears. Kyla, I’m currently interested in the MD/PhD program there. I already love the program, it was just the location that was killing me. I think part of my problem is that I was kind of planning on going home for grad school. I mean, I applied to 14 programs, of which 12 were on the East Coast. And, of course, the one I love the most is the one in the Midwest. So it’s not that Ann Arbor is bad, it’s just not where I was expecting to be spending the next eight years. But these positive responses are definitely helping me get over it!

So, here are some nitty-gritty questions. Where should I live? Do I need a car (I mean, not need, but would I be happier with one)? Any parts I should avoid? Is Ypsilanti as bad as I hear (someone i know called it “Ypsi-tucky”)? What do you dislike about A2?

The University of Michigan is the biggest employer in the state of Michigan.

Zingerman’s is kinda overrated. It’s great, but ONLY because of the bread. You could have a turd sandwich on Zingerman’s bread and ask for seconds.

Now, Now. There are some truly good restaurants on campus IMHO. On State St. there’s a beautiful Caribbean place called Zanzibar. On Main St. there’s a fantastic Italian place called Gratzi and after your dinner they’ll seat you next door at La Dolce Vita in giant comfy couches while you eat gourmet dessert. Some of the happiest moments of my life occurred at La Dolce Vita. Then there’s my favorite place of all time-- The Chop House. Incredibly expensive, gourmet dishes á la cart, but damn good.

You know Great Lake? My husband and I used to go there all the time (we lived less than a mile from there, in Ypsi, for 2 years.) You can split a dinner for two for like $12. The outside of the building barely identifies it as a restaurant, but they have phenomenal food. We could go there on a weekly basis even on a shoestring budget.

There are also some excellent Middle-Eastern restaurants in that area as well. To be perfectly honest with you I haven’t found a Middle Eastern restaurant on the East Coast that can even compare. And if you go further into Ypsi you can find a huge traditional Asian market (complete with live eel to purchase for dinner.) This is also the place to go if you’re looking for authentic Mexican. Pretty much all of the good ethnic restaurants are in Ypsi because there are a large number of immigrants who make their living this way. (Yspilanti is a 10 minute drive from U of M’s campus, straight shot down Washtenaw. Just head East and look for the giant penis.)

Mark my words, I’m coming home some day.

Need a car? Absolutely not. Most students don’t have cars, and you won’t need one for a night on the town (not that you’d be able to find parking, anyway) or getting to class (even if you live a bit farther out, there are busses).

Happier with one? Depends. A car is very nice to have for the occasional trip to the movies or to go grocery shopping. Meijer is a short car ride away but takes forever to get to on the bus (and you can’t carry as much back with you, of course), and it’s handy to be able to go to Target whenever you need to. But a car isn’t a necessity.

Yes, Ypsi is absolutely as bad as you’ve heard. God-awful place.

What I disliked about A2 after having lived there for four years was that, ultimately, it was just too small for me. It’s a fantastic town, and I love going back there to visit (actually, I might be going back there for law school in the fall depending on whether or not I’m accepted), but by my 4th year there if I had to walk down State St. one more time I was going to shoot myself.

As long as we’re talking about restaurants, I still love Seva, Jerusalem Garden, Raja Rani, and Madras Masala. Cafe Habana is nice, too. And of course Chop House and Dolce if you can afford them.

The Gandy Dancer is a friggin’ great seafood restaurant as well. It’s right by the train station.

It’s Ypsiltucky :wink:

While most of Ann Arbor is relatively safe, Ypsi is a different story. There are good areas and then it can get downright nasty. Eastern Michigan University is located there, and it does have some cool bars. I’ll let someone who knows Ypsi better chime in on details.

Ann Arbor is very doable without a car. In fact, parking can be a huge PITA. The Parking Violation Dept has a drive thru. Most interesting things are within walking distance of campus, there is transit, and Amtrak runs through town, making Detroit and Chicago reachable (don’t let people scare you about Detroit, it’s a bit intimidating, but lots of cool things to do). A2 is also a pretty bike-friendly city.

And Least Original User Name Ever has no taste buds;) Zingerman’s not only has their own bakery, but their own farms, and they even make their own pastrami/corned beef. Of course, you pay a lot for all that!

Yes. Actually, it’s pretty close to need. There isn’t a grocery store in walking distance of campus, and relying on the bus is… a drag. A lot of good cool stuff is not on a bus line or out of town (ie, Dexter Cider Mill!). Luckily, there is a constant flow of inexpensive cars being bought/sold by entering/exiting grad students. Check listings in the Ann Arbor News, and remember there is NO mechanical or emissions inspection in Ann Arbor. If it rolls, it’s registered. Main Street Motors is by far the best mechanic in town.

There pretty much is no “bad” part of Ann Arbor- we call the poor parts “Ypsi” but even Ypsi ranges from “ramshackle” to “quite nice in a broke-ass way” to “damn fine place you have here.”

Within Ann Arbor there are two “student ghettos.” One is south of campus and is filled with partying undergrads and houses owned and “maintained” by straight up slumlords. Run away!!! On the north side of campus (without actually being in “Northside” which is a neighborhood just over the river) is a neighborhood sometimes known as “Old Fourth Ward” or alternatively “the grad student ghetto.” It is framed by North Division, the river, Huron, and the Medical Center. This neighborhood is also mostly students, but is more quiet, pleasant and well maintained. There is a lower couch to porch ratio. Bonus features include being walking distance to the Farmer’s Market and downtown Ann Arbor – and walking distance to the police station in case your car ever gets towed. :slight_smile: (I used to live in the upstairs apartment of a house on Thayer St.)

Do NOT rent from McKinley management. They SUCK.

You might also look in to living in a co-op, if you think it might interest you.

What do I dislike about Ann Arbor? On the whole, it is expensive and pretentious. People can be ultra-liberal in a very twatty way (and I am VERY liberal). Regardless of how little you follow football, it does run your life to a certain degree (when can I get to Target, will the bars be packed, etc).

My boyfriend came here 20 odd years ago from Miami to go to U of M, and never left. After twenty years of living in a dozen places in A2 he says to look for something on The Old West Side, between Main street and 7th. The neighborhood is a mixture of grad students, professionals and families, so it’s a lot quieter than the student ghettos but still has plenty of rooms available to rent. It’s a short walk to downtown, the only downside is that it’s at least a twenty minute walk to campus but a short bike ride.

You don’t need a car, and parking can be a bitch, but all the large grocery chains and big box stores are on the outskirts of town. If you want to go anywhere not right in town, you need to drive, Michigan worships car culture and has zilch for public transportation.

Ypsi isn’t bad, if you grew up in NYC and went to school in Chicago you’ll laugh at the idea of Ypsi being the bad-ass side of the tracks. The town just has a lower income level and higher crime rate than Ann Arbor, but Ann Arbor’s crime rate is relatively low for a town of it’s size. No crips, no bloods, we like to keep most of that in Detroit, tyvm. It’s too much of a haul to live there for the cheaper rent and spend all your time backing and forthing, and Ann Arbor is just a nicer place to live and closer to campus.

In case your not getting the football warnings, Michigan Stadium is one of the largest in the world, seating about 106,000 people. On football Saturdays, the stadium has enough people to be like the 8th most populated city in Michigan. Every game is technically a sellout, although crowds might not be a problem after this past season!

The traffic is a bitch, but compared to other college towns, I found the fans to be rather tame.

Crap, I want to move back too!

Yeah, for the biggest stadium in all the land, it’s a rather tame crowd. I don’t know. Lattes have caffeine in them too.