Okay, I’ll admit it. Half the dress shirts I wear to work are hand-me-downs from my uncle. Most are just fine for my purposes, but I’d like to get a couple new, really sharp shirts, and spend as little money as possible. I’ll probably get them at JC Penney, which has a wide selection and is much cheaper than Dillard’s or Macy’s. But tell me, stylish Dopers:
Is it better to go with a cotton-poly blend, or 100% cotton? I hate ironing and don’t even own an iron, so wrinkle-free is always a big plus. However, I live in a hot, humid state, and tend to sweat.
Is it cooler to have no buttons on the collar, or are buttons okay? I tend to prefer the look of no buttons, but those shirts tend to be more expensive, and I’m not sure what is “cool” or “professional,” given the choice.
Cufflinks? I’ve never owned a shirt that required cufflinks – they always have button-cuffs.
My absolute favorite shirt I own was a gift: a silver-gray shirt that I believe is 100% cotton, but the material is kind of shiny, almost shimmering. I love it. I really want a black shirt with this shiny look, and even moreso, a dark blood/wine red shirt with sort of a black shine to it. How cool is this? I can see myself wearing shirts like that unbuttoned over black T-shirts even when I’m not at work wearing ties.
Let me just hit a few random observations and let the debate begin.
Button collars vs. tab colars. Actually, the more important thing is the relationship between the collar and the tie: narrow tie = narrow collar. Once you work that out, there’s not much difference between buttons and tabs. The old rule was that a tab collar shirt was actually dressier than a button down, but unless you’re wearing a tuxedo, I don’t think that much matters.
Cotton/poly or 100% cotton. Actually what you want is a shirt with thicker material. If you ever have to ask “can you see my nipples through this shirt” you should burn both your shirt and your nipples. In general, a shirt with more cotton than poly will feel better on you for a longer period of time. But either way, if you want to look sharp, buy an iron.
Actually, I was under the impression that cufflinks were making a comeback. Not that I own any, I find them uncomfortable.
Anyway, my honest advice is to get to a Men’s Wearhouse or something and let them pick stuff for you. They’ve done a masterful job with my dress wardrobe and are very understanding of my finances.
Cufflinks are definitely in at my place of business, but you shouldn’t worry about them – I’d certainly never wear cufflinks to an interview, for instance.
I don’t think I would opt for the cufflinks anyway. But just curious, why wouldn’t you wear them to an interview? I know you’re a lawyer, and I WAS a lawyer, but I’m done with it. I’m walking away from the profession, so I’d like to redefine my style a bit as well as my career path.
I’d buy 100% cotton if at all possible. While they wrinkle a little more, they also wear longer and you’ll save money in the long run. Plus, they hold starch and look sharper than poly/cotton blends.
Oxford cloth shirts and button-down collars are considered more casual than finished cotton and straight-collared shirts. You choice depends on how formal the situation. Same thing with french cuffs vs. button cuffs. French cuff shirts give a very finished look, but they may be over doing it depending on the situation.
One thing that’s REALLY important in buying shirts is getting the correct size. Don’t let your vanity get in the way of proper fit. If your shirt is too small in the neck you’ll look like a sausage casing, you’ll be uncomfortable, and the shirt won’t wear as long. Suck it up and buy the shirt that fits. If possible, buy shirts that have exact sleeve lenghts (34" instead of 34/35, for instance). Shirts that are too long in the sleeve look just as bad as shirts that are too small in the neck. A good men’s shop will be able to take your measurements without a problem.
Pay some more attention to color - silver, black, maroon, etc. aren’t appropriate for business wear. They may be fine for entertaining or going out, but I’d stick to white, ecru, blue (light and royal), pink, and yellow for business dress.
Once you’re working and can save up some money, buy some made to order shirts. There’s nothing like pampering yourself to some really good clothing once in a while. The difference will definitely show.
I have no advice to give, but I think that plnnr is spot on. We have a book here in the office that goes into excruciating detail regarding business fashion, and most of it is perfectly in line with plnnr’s advice. The only other morsel I can find is that short-sleeved shirts are never acceptable in any professional business, no matter the climate.
I wear short-sleeved shirts well into the fall, so you certainly don’t want advice from me. I even wear Hawaiian shirts to important meetings. The thing is, I’ve given up entirely. Don’t let the same thing happen to you.
Save up $100 and buy yourself ONE really nice shirt, from a proper tailor or men’s outfitters.
Thomas Pink www.thomaspink.co.uk or Charles Tyrwhitt www.ctshirts.co.uk are good examples of the kind of stuff I mean.
While you are there, make the staff work to earn that money…get yourself properly measured and have them help you find “the perfect shirt” for you. Try on lots, buy one. It doesn’t have to be ultra-formal, just something that makes you feel professional, confident and handsome when you wear it. If it’s white, blue or pink you’ll also get a lot of wear from it, as it will go with most things. If you’re feeling very flush treat yourself to a nice tie, handkerchief and cufflinks to finish off the look, and which you can wear to add some zing to cheaper shirts.
Once you have your “perfect shirt” you’ll know what you want, and what a great shirt looks and feels like…then you can look for the nearest approximation in your more usual price range.
In my experience men find it much harder to justify spending money on clothes, but honestly, if you spend $100 on a great quality shirt you wear once a week every year for 2 years you’ve cost yourself a dollar a week. Which is better value than $30 on a shirt you wear once a month for a year, or a $15 shirt you wear 3 times before it falls apart.
Ah well… I can only try.
I’ll just have to expound further on my theory to my husband, who left for work this morning wearing a Yoda t-shirt, jeans and a pair of Converse…but he works in IT development, and they think that’s smart office wear.
Ditto on everything plnnr said. Very well said. The sleeve length thing can’t be emphasized enough – I’ve noticed even Macy’s is now selling 34/35 shirts, so I’ve stopped buying mine there.
Plus, my advice: To look sharp, learn to use a bit of starch and iron it yourself. You can send shirts out to be laundered, but the press used at most dry cleaners is very harsh and will break buttons and wear out your shirts much faster. I assume that you’re wearing a tie and jacket with your shirts. If you are not, skip the French cuffs. Also skip the spread collar, too, if you are skipping the tie and jacket. And the tab collars just look awful, period.
The number one best place I’ve found to buy dress shirts at good prices is the Joseph Banks outlet stores. In my area, I can usually get a good fitting, stylish shirt from them at prices between $20 and $35. Much, much better quality than you’ll find at JC Pennys.
Susan Bixler, author of Professional Presence, the book I mentioned earlier, says that French cuffs are not only in, but they’re sharp and crisp and they’re readily available in men’s stores. Mind you, our copy of the book was updated in '92. French cuffs have probably gone in and out several times since then. Anyway, they’d look silly on my short-sleeved shirts.
You shouldn’t wear anything overly stylized to an interview. Instead, you should just look well put together.
Oh, I’ll second the Jos. Banks outlets – my whole wardrobe is from there, and their stuff is nice, well made, and quite reasonable even at regular stores, while being positively cheap at the outlets.
I, too, agree with plnnr. I’m an “all-cotton” guy. There are some all-cotton, wrinkle-free shirts. To me, wrinkle-free doesn’t mean no-iron, it means less- and/or easier-iron. They’re more expensive than regular shirts, usually by about $10.00. I find they wrinkle less over the course of a day and travel a little better.
Cotton breaths, so if going with a cotton/poly blend, get a high cotton mix. Your body will appreciate it in high humidity weather. T-shirts will extend the life of your shirt and don’t add much to one’s personal heat index (unless you are out of doors for extended periods).
Your wardrobe should always contain one white dress shirt. It goes with any color suit, and it can handle any color or pattern tie. Someone is eventually going to get married or die, and you’ll need the suit / shirt / tie combo. Personally, I go with the weekly ratio of 3 white shirts (one textured) / 1-2 solid colored shirt / 0-1 pattern shirt. I keep about 3 weeks worth of shirts in my closet.
One thing to remember when wearing a white shirt - If you don’t feel your best (looking a little sallow, bags under the eyes, a little scruffy, etc.) the white shirt is going to amplify it.
I am by no means an expert (reformed slob actually), so I would pay attention to the other posters advice. . . HOWEVER
. . . after buying a couple of Brooks Brothers non-iron shirts, I will NEVER go back. They are absolutely amazing and good looking. And since I don’t iron under any circumstances, they are perfect for me. I don’t want to just shill their product, because other companies make comparable non-iron stuff, but these are all I buy. I don’t have any problems with sweating either.
Also re: buttons - I am a firm no button man. I think it looks much cooler. YMMV.