Tell me how to become good at dressmaking (clothes, not craft)

Patterns are probably not as complicated as you might think, since they step you through the process. But if you really don’t like that way of working, you could try draping. Get a dress form, or someone to help you. Then drape the fabric over the form, or yourself, and pin it till it hangs the way you want. Cut off the excess and sew where you have pinned. It is way too free-form for me, but I know some people who make lovely clothes this way, especially dresses and skirts.

If you use patterns, stay away from Burda till you have more experience. They often skip steps, or describe things very sketchily. Kwiksew patterns usually have excellent instructions.

Thanks for the heads up! I think Burda is German, anyway, they dominate the pattern market here in the Netherlands. I once tried a Burda pattern and got thouroughly lost and dejected.

I just love to look at pattern books in the fabric store, they are on a table and I just sit down and browse through all of them, planning my dream wardrobe. Then I get up and look through all the fabrics. Then - well, by then the store is closing, so I have to leave, lol!.. I have noticed in the last few years there is a way of sewing that one could describe as, for lack of a better term, primitive. Just look at some of the puzzlers on Etsy! I was taught to press every seam as I went along, make the zipper as invisible as possible, match the buttons, hem the skirt with lace or tape. Now, it seems, a more, uh, casual ‘yes, it’s supposed to look like that’ sewing project is fashionable. I couldn’t do it, but there it is.

I’ve heard a story about a Burda pattern for a little girls’ jacket with piping on the collar and an applique and some other fancy bits. Supposedly the pattern directions had 12 steps. Steps 1 through 11 told you how to assemble all the decorative touches, and Step 12 simply read: “Sew jacket.”

Probably apocryphal, but almost believable…

I can also recommend KwikSew patterns if you can find them - the directions are almost annoyingly complete. A Danish company called Stof & Stil also has good patterns, and I know they’re in Germany at least… The bad thing about their patterns is that they are one-size rather than the usual multi-size, but the good thing is that this is because they are already cut out (so you skip a time-consuming and pretty boring step). And the directions are pretty good.

Oh, back to your favorite dress that you plan to sacrifice to the Pattern Gods for a new one:

If it needs to be taken IN, put the dress on INSIDE OUT, and have a knowlegeable-about-sewing friend use straight pins to make the seams larger so the dress fits better. Or if this friend knows what DARTS are, those can be added.

Then use the sewing machine to stitch up the places pinned, and try on the dress again. If it fits, you’ve got your new pattern!

If it doesn’t fit, use the seam ripper to take out the new seams, and try again.

This old dress is perfect for a project!
~VOW

That is a great idea. I’ll return and report if I manage to find the time to do this.

Have you found a pattern yet? Some pattern books have little symbols (like this). These symbols (triangle, inverted triangle, circle and hourglass) match figure types and tell you that the garment looks good on this type, but not on anther (see “about figure flattery”).

Now that you’ve found a pattern that’s not too difficult (skirt or simple dress), it’s time to think of the next steps: fabric and fit.

The easiest fabrics to sew for beginners are cotton and cotton blends. Solids and prints. Stay away from stripes and plaids or any small print that repeats with less than 4 inches/10 cm. It is too difficult to match. Get a medium to heavy weight fabric - one that you’d see in a skirt.

I’d advise pre-shrinking any fabric for now. It is not necessary for 95% of modern fabrics, but better safe than sorry.

Most patterns have printed on the front piece the actual hip/waist/bust measurements of the completed garment. This allows for ease of movement and style.

If you are lucky, you won’t have to do any adjustments to the pattern for fit. However, if one of your measurements is one size and another is another size, go with the larger size. To pick some numbers out of the air, if you are a size 10 waist and a size 14 hips, and multiple sizes are on the same pattern, cut the pattern with 14 hips graduating down to 10 waist. If only one size is on the pattern, choose the larger size and make adjustments as you sew.

Places to make adjustments are seams and darts. Most US patterns have 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams. To make the garment bigger, you only have 3/8" (1 cm) per seam you can play with (you need at least 1/4" seam or run the risk of holes at the stress points). That is why everyone is telling you to cut big and sew down.

If you chose a dress pattern instead of a skirt, you have to pay attention to two other measurements - bust and back waist length. For the bust, just go up or down a size (when you are a more experienced sewer we can talk again about alterations to the pattern). For the back waist length, it is the measurement from the base of the neck to the natural waist. I am short-waisted - the measurement is about an inch shorter than “normal” - so in order to get a good fit I have to fold the pattern along the double lines printed right above the waistline before I pin it to the fabric. (Different patterns have different ways of showing the lines.) If you’re long-waisted, you have to cut the pattern, insert a scrap of paper, and tape it in place. These alterations are a pain in the ass to do, but it makes a huge difference in the fit.

As mentioned (I think) the sheet with the instructions usually has a diagram of the best way to lay out the pattern pieces. I cut out the pattern pieces on the lines completely with dull scissors before laying them on the fabric. (Paper is made out of WOOD, something that dulls my good, sharp scissors.) Others just approximate the pattern pieces, figuring scissors are cheap, and save the precision cutting for later.

There is an arrow printed on each pattern piece. Line the arrow up with the selvage/fold by measuring the distance from the closest edge to each end of the arrow and pinning it. There should be no more than 2 mm difference between the two measurements.

Measure twice, cut once.

It all sounds like too much work. And if you want to, you can skip most of these steps to get sewing faster. But they will result in a better fit and easier sewing if you try them.