Tell me how to become good at dressmaking (clothes, not craft)

I’d love to be good at sewing. I don’t want to be an accomplished dressmaker, starting from patterns, because I think that is way too hard and I have never been good at the spatial thinking necessary to think how the pieces of a sewing pattern will fit together.

But I would love to be able to alter something I bought, so it fits juuust right. Or to buy one of those lovely fabrics at the market and make something fun and easy out of it.

So, does anyone have tips on how to proceed? Books? Five easy tricks? Thanks!

The patterns are like a road map. They take you through the whole process step by step. There is a little diagram that shows you how to fold the fabric before you lay the pattern out, where and how to pin it down, and cut it out. Once you cut the pieces, the instructions will say, “Now take Piece A (clearly labeled on the pattern), flip it upside down/inside out/whatever, and baste it to Piece B. When you’re satisfied that worked out, sew it down with smaller stitches. Repeat for the other side. Now you’ve got Piece C. Flip over Piece D and sew it to Piece C at this spot.”

If you read the pattern completely through before beginning, you don’t have to think through how the pieces go together. If I were you, I would find some pretty fabric on sale somewhere and pick up a pattern for something really simple, like a wrap around skirt. Something that doesn’t require buttons or zippers or any tricky closures. A tank dress/shift would be easy, as long as there’s no sleeves. Sleeves are a bit tricky.

What you’re suggesting to me sounds more difficult than just following the patterns. Read them through carefully so you’ll understand what all the little markings mean. There are tabs built in that show you exactly where to match up pieces that fit together. There’s other markings to show you where pleats or gathers should be. You can stop and “try on” every time you sew two pieces together. And there is no rule that says you can’t take your seamripper to the whole thing, tear it apart and sew the piece back on. I’ve put a few sleeves on backwards before I figured that out. It’s a matter of reading directions and understanding that you can’t un-cut fabric, but you can un-sew it.

Read the back of the patterns carefully. There are sizing charts and lists of all the materials and notions you will need. Some things are lined, so you actually make the piece twice. Some things require buttons or zippers… Use some old fabric and find buttons and zippers on sale and just practice making button holes and putting in zippers. You may also be able to take classes at your local fabric shop. My grandmother taught me to sew, (and I find I can’t make clothes for less than I can buy them at Target, so it’s pointless) but it’s not something I think I could read about and get the hang of. I had to watch her and ask questions. She and my stepmom both gave me simple patterns to start with (My first projects were a pair of shorts, sweats, and a tote bag. Then I did an elastic waist skirt.) and then sort of hung around to monitor the process. The pattern companies probably also have websites and help lines I would guess.

I found the alterations knowledge came after I had an understanding of how clothes are put together. It was much easier to figure out where to put in a dart after I’d made a couple dresses that had darts in them. I think the trickiest part might be understanding the terms (you do know what basting is, right?) and understanding what the symbols on the patterns mean (they are important instructions you will need).

Oh, and one more note. You frustration level will be jacked up by orders of magnitude if the first fabric you choose to work with is something slippery, like nylon, silk, or satin. Start with a simple cheap cotton that doesn’t slide all over the table the second you breathe within six feet of it. I have a silk wraparound skirt that I made that took hours because the silk is so damn slippery. Normally, I can knock off a wraparound skirt in less than an hour.

I agree with Dogzilla – constructing a simple garment from scratch is easier than doing a very good job altering commercially made clothing. One problem is that commercially made clothing is often ill constructed and resists alteration (and there is little correlation with how much something costs, and whether it is made well, except at the very very top).

I think it best to take a beginner’s class - many sewing stores offer them – just to understand the basic use of the machine, essential fabric knowledge, basic construction techniques, and how to follow a pattern. With the basic knowledge as a jumping off point, reference books can refresh your memory and expand your skills, but I don’t think many people can learn to sew without anyone to help them.

Thanks! And how do you find out, apart from time consuming trial and error, how my measurements differ from the standard sizing used by a pattern?

Patterns come in multiple sizes within one “pattern packet.” You measure yourself and cut out the pattern along the lines that correspond with your measurements, according to the instructions on the back.

Sadly, mostly by trial and error.

There will be a chart on the back of the pattern packaging. The pattern may also give you a range of options for a given clothing item. For example, A wraparound skirt pattern may also include an option for a wasitband and pockets, or a zipper and waistband. First, you figure out which item you’re going to make. (Go with the fewest pieces!)

Then, for each item, there will be a chart with a range of measurements. So perhaps size 5 means a 34-36" bust, 26-28" waist and 37-39" hip (assuming your stuff will be all metric, Netherlands and all). Your measurements will not fit that standard size because you’ve got a giant rack or tiny hips or whatever. But first, realize that a range is given and the bust measurement may mean nothing if you are making a bottom piece.

The patterns will come for a range of sizes. One package might be for sizes 5, 6, 7 and another package might be for sizes 8, 9, and 10. Because the sizes are for a range of measurements, you’ve got a lot of leeway to play with in any given pattern. If it’s a dress, for example, and you have a size 5 bust but a size 7 ass, you can cut to size. You could cut the top pieces to follow the size 5 cutting line and the bottom pieces to follow the size 7 cutting line. It might get tricky when you get to fitting those together, depending on the design. That’s why I recommend starting with something really forgiving, like a wrap around skirt, so the measurements won’t make much difference. All you really have to worry about is getting the hemline where you want it.

Just remember the rule of editing: It’s much easier to remove extras than it is to add something you don’t have enough of. I make my patterns according to one size larger than I think I need. Sometimes the pieces get cut down and altered before the final sewing. Like retail stores, no two pattern companies make the same range of sizes. A size 10 by Butterick might fit like a size 8 by Vogue. That’s the trial and error part, figuring out which patterns run large and which run small and how you can make corrections on the fly. Safest bet is to cut the pieces too large. You can always get out your seamripper, take it apart, cut down the pieces, and sew it back together.

Another problem that noob seamstresses run into is making the sewing machine work properly. Somehow, getting that thread tension just right can be tricky. That’s because it will be different for different fabrics.

I’m thinking you should start with something that does not involve your personal body measurements, just to learn how to use the sewing machine and how to read the pattern. A tote bag is a really easy simple project that will be useful later on, great practice before you drop $100 on some fancy fabric to make a dress that turns out two sizes too small.

Oh, I have a sewing machine and I use it, mostly on the odd curtain or jeans shortening. You are right, thread tension is the trickiest part. I can’t tell you how often I studied my machine’s manual to find out how I ended up with continuously breaking thread, or lots of extraneous loops in my sewing.

I will try a shift dress, to keep motivated.

How and where do noob seamstresses buy patterns?

Here in the US patterns are generally sold wherever fabric is sold. That would include fabric stores, general craft stores that sell fabric, and places like WalMart that sell everything. They are priced at $X but are always, always on sale for 50% of $X or less.

If you need a pattern for specialty items (for example I had some patterns to make items for my horse) you can find them on the Internet. :smiley:

I understand Utrect has a famous fabric market. I imagine many there sell patterns.

If your measurements fit the sizing charts, even if they cover a range of about 2 (maybe 3) sizes, you can do the above (trail & error). If you are too far off the charts (for example, if your bust is an F cup and you are short-waisted), the alterations to the pattern are too much to explain here. You can get an approximate fit by going larger here and smaller there, but you aren’t going to get a perfect fit until you have enough experience to alter the pattern.

Keep in mind the patterns are made for the average person with the average figure from 50 years ago! That is why the smallest size listed is 6 (American sizes) and a B cup. (All the Misses sizes assume a B cup, Plus sizes assume a C cup.) If you compare measurements, it works out to a size 2 or even a 0. When deciding on a size, go by your measurements, not by the size you normally buy.

The patterns by Vogue are too complicated for a beginner. Butterick, McCalls and Simplicity all offer an easy line for beginners. I don’t know what pattern companies are for sale in Europe.

BTW, I have heard good things about this project book for beginners:
Sewing In A Straight Line. All the projects are cleverly designed to use ONLY straight seams.

Sorry, not trying to discourage you. More along the lines of complaining about patterns.

There’s nothing better than the feeling of accomplishment, pride and satisfaction you get when you’re wearing something you made. People aren’t just complimenting your taste in picking clothes, they are complimenting your taste in combining the fabric and pattern and your sewing skills.

The reviews were very positive, I ordered, it, thanks! From there, they also recommended Sew serendipity, so I ordered that one too.

I don’t recommend this for a first-time project, but this something I want to try. I have a really great dress that fits me perfectly. I love the cut and I haven’t been able to find a similar dress anywhere. It’s more of a classic style than a trendy one. My idea is to rip the dress apart by the seams, use the fabric as a pattern and remake it in fresh new fabric.

Whaddya think, seamstresses? How do you think that’ll go? :dubious:

I would try it with a smaller piece that you don’t love first, to see where the problem spots might be, whether it’s a steaming pain that you don’t want to fool with, etc. before messing up your nice dress.

Good advice. The dress is threadbare, stained, well worn, and long past its prime. It was headed for the rag bag until I thought of this.

Now it occurs to me that I’ve dropped about 30 pounds since that dress fit well. That’s probably too much to cut down. Starting to sound like a bad idea.

If you are experienced at sewing, you can ABSOLUTELY take apart a garment and use it for a guide.

And for the beginner, it is DEFINITELY easier to make a new garment from “scratch” than to alter. Just say, “replace a busted zipper” to a group experienced at sewing, and listen to the moans and cries!

Definitely play with the sewing machine on scraps, until you figure out how it works. Thread tension is the killer, and to confuse matters even more, some machines have a tension on the top thread AND a tension on the bobbin thread.

The two stitches you’ll need the most are the straight stitch, and the plain zigzag. Master those FIRST.

For long pieces, it is tempting to “give it the gas” and run the machine as fast as it will go. WRONG ANSWER. Until you are very adept at controlling the fabric, all that will do is give you a sewn line that wiggles all over the place. By using a slow, steady speed, you can control the fabric and eventually learn how to do beautifully straight seams.

Get a good seam ripper, and realize that a LOT of sewing means learning how to tear out what you just sewed WRONG. Sometimes you’ll be toodling along, thinking all is well, and when you finish the seam and pull the garment out, you’ll find you have an unexpected tuck, or you sewed the front and the back together. Scream, yell, and gnash your teeth, and then use the seam ripper to pull the wrong stitches out. Don’t just TEAR the seam open, either. You’ll weaken the fabric, and you’ll have to sit there for hours pulling all the little busted threads out. NOT FUN.

Invest in an iron and ironing board. Good sewing projects have to be pressed frequently. Seams are often pressed open to allow the garment to hang nicely.

BIAS TAPE can be your best friend!

Curved areas around necklines and armholes can make you crazy. Pin and baste as much as you need, and remember to sew this slow-slow-slow, so you have absolute control over the fabric.

Oh and look carefully at the patterns you buy. They often are GRADED, “Easy,” “Intermediate,” “Advanced.” The patterns come with big sheets of instructions. Read them carefully, use a pencil to make notes, and if your eyes cross with confusion, ask another seamstress or take it to the fabric store and find somebody to give you a translation.

You’ll be sewing an entire wardrobe in no time!! Have FUN!
~VOW

And if you’re decent at hand sewing, don’t be afraid to use it for things like binding an armhole or putting up a hem. Hand stitching is often a lot more forgiving and adaptable than machine stitching, and doesn’t have to be less durable.

One of the big surprises for me when I started subscribing to Threads magazine (whose website has a lot of useful sewing information available without a subscription) was finding out how much serious couture relies on hand sewing.

I always used to think that nowadays hand stitching was just a laborious makeshift for times when a sewing machine wasn’t available. But I now realize that the double thread and mechanical constraints of machine stitching can actually make it more difficult to manipulate successfully in certain applications than a good old hand-held needle and thread.

Actually, if you love the cut, it might be worth seeing if you can take the dress in so that it fits you properly while still looking good.

Then you can use your newly-gained intimate knowledge of the dress’s component parts to employ the “resized” pieces as a pattern to re-make the dress in a new fabric, as VOW suggests.

After all, what have you got to lose? If the dress was headed for the ragbag anyway, experimenting with altering its size can’t do any harm. At the worst, the experiment doesn’t work and you’ve gained additional experience with alterations. And your new rags are slightly smaller than they would otherwise have been. :wink:

As other posters have noted, it’s easier to make a (simple) garment from scratch than to alter an existing one. A major reason for this is that the problem stems from the cutting of the garment, rather than its assembly.

And, as the cummulative wisdom of The Dope has indicated, you can re-sew, but you can’t re-cut.

Definitely go by your measurements. There are maybe half-a-dozen size ranges. “Misses” has the widest selection of styles, but if your size and shape more closely match “juniors” or “women’s” or “half-sizes” (not to mention “tall” and “petite” versions of those), etc, go with that.

The paper patterns that you have been encouraged to use will have instructions for altering themselves before cutting so that the fit is “juuust right”.

Not just sleeve and hem lengths, but things like waist length (spine top to natural waist) and crotch depth (natural waist to seat of chair when you are sitting).

Simplicity at one time had a series of instructional patterns that included a lesson with each garment.

For further motivation, look at the licensed designer patterns in the pattern books. And Vintage Vogue!

… and don’t get us started on fabric! :eek: