Like most bikes, the petcock[sup]*[/sup] valve sits right below the gas tank. The diaphragm / filter sits inside two vertically aligned halves, separated by a gasket. The valve has developed a slow (about one drop every ten seconds or so) leak somewhere along the gasket. No one in the area stocks the parts, so I’ll have to wait a couple weeks (at least) until new gasket arrives. My question is what do I do until then? I’d rather not let the gas drain out over the engine / ground. I can’t let the bike sit there empty (we have a nice warm spell now, but when temps drop I want to have a full tank in there while it sits idle.
So here’s what I need: A sealant / adhesive that will stick to metal, resist being broken down by gasoline, and will be removable in a couple weeks. I don’t believe there is any pressure on the fuel line (other than gravity on a three gallon tank) so it doesn’t necessarily need to be a strong seal. Would Goop work? Any brand suggestions? Thanks!
[sup]*Misleading subject line intentionally avoided. Let’s keep GQ honest!
Instead of trying to seal a leaky gasket I’d rather try to make a temporary gasket.
I’d think that a sealant that works would stick too well to be easily removed. Also you seem to want to ride while the weather is nice.Don’t blame you.
It might be a good time to replace rubber hoses also.
You’ve already tried flipping the gasket around, right? A lot of times, the gaskets can be flipped over and/or rotated 90 or 180 degrees. I don’t know how your petcock is designed, but I did this a lot with the type that had a gasket with four holes and a petcock casting that had three ports cast in.
Beyond that, any non-hardening, gas resistant sealant might work. FWIW, Yamaha makes a really good one (the light gray stuff.) I personally don’t like silicone, simply because so many of them aren’t gas resistant, but the back of any blister pack at the parts store should show which ones are listed as being fuel resistant (I think Loctite/RTV is the most common product line and they have a chart on the pack.)
We use a gray powdery stuff called “Plug-N-Dike” for sealing leaking fuel tanks. Mix the powder with water and it makes a putty, then push the putty around the hole. Works most of the time for us (unless the gas is coming out under pressure, which shouldn’t be a problem in your case). Granted, I have no idea where to get the stuff, so YMMV.
Damnit! Right up there is a nice link to a printable version of this thread and I don’t use it! Well, that should teach me! I ended up with a mouth full of Play-D’Oh and hands sticky from mixing cinnamon and grape chewing gum.
Duct tape does indeed work miracles, but unfortunately the valve is a relatively awkward shape, and too small to bundle up in the gray goodness. JB and Plug ‘n’ Dike seem a bit too permanent. I need to get in and out of the valve from time to time to change out the fuel filter. As far as making my own, I don’t quite trust myself with that. If I run into problems, I could end up in far worse shape than I am in now. The valve is irregularly shaped, so I don’t think turning it around will work.
Copper-type and Lock-tight RTV sealant sounds like what I am looking for. Cornflakes I think this is the second time you’ve helped with a gasket problem on this bike. Thanks!
Soap. Plain old fashioned bar soap. I’ve had good luck with Dial, but probably any brand would work. Just rub the bar (or a sliver of it) over the point that is leaking. The soap will work into the leak and temporarly seal it. I use it when trying to dial in a carb (removing the fuel bowls repeatedly while trying to re-use the same gaskets).
Warning: This is an EXTREMELY temporary repair and should be checked daily.
Soap? Wow… ya know, sounds perfect! Cheap, easy, doesn’t sound like it will affect any future repairs, and I can’t imagine any harms that could come of it (save I jam it all the way into the fuel lines!) Soap isn’t dissolved by gasoline? Well, even if it only lasts a day or so, it should be cheap and easy enough to reapply every couple of days until the new gasket comes in. Or if it barely holds, it should tide me over 'till I get to the hardware store. Thanks!
Have you ever thought of forming a band - ** JB_farley and the Plug’n Dykes**? Bet the after show parties would be fantastic :eek:
[stones] You can’t always get what you want…[/stones]
Don’t you just love coincidences? I have Yamaha and Maxim keyword searches set on Ebay’s personal shopper. For the past year or so I’ve never seen a part come up that I needed (or fit my bike). Tonight, I am about to cash out, I check my e-mail one last time and bing! fuel petcock rebuild kit yamaha,xj,xs Sig line’s apaying off. Thanks!
You might want to call a bike salvage yard and get a used petcock* to tide you over until the auction closes. That type mounted to the tank in the same way across the product line (inlet tube lengths differed.) The salvages might have a box of those things laying around, and you could probably get one for cheap.
The petcock on your bike can switch between on, reserve and prime, right? The gasket I mentioned flipping is for the side that switches between these; flipping it would only help if the valve leaked from the outside half in one or two positions. Since it’s the diaphragm side that’s leaking, this, of course, won’t help.
Have you had taken it apart? The diaphragm itself may be broken, but I doubt it as this would let gas pour into one cylinder through the vacuum line. For some reason, I want to say that there was a vent port (or notch) in one of the castings that might leak if the diaphragm broke, but I don’t see any reason for the vent. I work with a lot of pneumatics nowadays, and I may be thinking of another air controlled valve.
So in summary, never mind. It sounds like you’re on the right track.
*[sub]Geez, will someone just post a Beavis & Butthead type reply so we can get on with it?[/sub]
I used to use Bondo on a penney. Press it against hole & presto! sealed. Dunno about getting it off later. Perhaps just hit it with a hammer lightly & it would come off.
