I lived just south of Chengdu for a couple of years.
For context, Sichuan province is considered a good place to enjoy the “relaxed life.” It’s the sort of place where people while away the day drinking tea, playing mah-jong, enjoying delicious local food and generally taking in a slower pace of life than you’d find in China’s ultra competitive cities. I’ve heard more than one person say they’d love to retire in Sichuan, where life is simple and sweet.
Chengdu itself is a huge modern city, but it’s a bit of a gem in that it’s both very Chinese and somewhat relaxed (although you may not think so when you first arrive!), something that’s a rarity in China.
The tourist circuit is a genuinely good time and does give a reasonable introduction into the area. In one outing you can visit the WuHou shrine, which is related to the Three Kingdoms period, walk up Jingli Street. Jingli is a bit like Chinese Disneyland, but it’s a good time for a tourist trap and undeniably charming. The Tibetan quarter is a short walk from there, and there are a few good Tibetan restaurants and plenty of Tibetans walking around with heavy jewels in their hair and piles of jewelry.
The Qingyang temple is more laid back, and has one of the great tea shops. Buy some tea, melon seeds and a pack of cards and pass the day there. You can also go to a Sichuan Opera…it’s wise to skip the real thing and go straight for the tourist version that gives a taste of everything from shadow puppets to quick change artists. It’s good tacky fun. Renmin Park is known for its impromptu music and dancing, and it’s always fun to wander Sichuan University’s sprawling historic grounds.
At night, bar street (by Babi II) is a fun time- it’s packed full of beer gardens, some of them pretty picturesque. Babi II is a good place for Chinese style nightclubbing, as are the various nightclubs scattered around it. At night, sidewalk BBQ joints will pop up all over. This is how Chinese people while away their time, drinking weak beer and eating stick after stick of spicy grilled meat. Or, if you really want to experience local culture, get some people together and rent a karaoke room.
If you need a break from China, the Bookworm is an expat bookstore cafe that has events sometimes. Pete’s Tex-Mex is the unofficial Peace Corps headquarters, where you can find hung-over PCVs going gaga over filter coffee. Down the street, Panem in the local hipest French night club in town.
Sichuan has some of the best food in China- spicy and fresh (and yes, oily, but almost never sweet). Find some way to get someone who knows how to order take you to a good place (which may well be a sidewalk eatery) and eat a few good Sichuan feasts. Make sure to get the twice-cooked pork, fish-flavored eggplant, kung pao chicken, sweet-and-sour pork, deep friend string beans, spicy cucumber, spicy peanuts, mapo tofu, whole fish, pork with garlic shoots, shredded potatoes and seasonal pickled vegetables.Hot-pot is also a must-have at least once (try to go to one of the big chains- they can be quite an experience), as are the various street snacks (which can be conviently found on JinLi street if you are feeling less adventurous. Try to find the big pancake thing they turn into a burrito…mmmm.
Have fun!!! Now you’ve got me looking at prices for plane tickets, hahah.