Thanks
, but I’m not sure if “expert” is the right word. Maybe “made a lot of the common mistakes” is a better description.
To the OP; I have a lot of experience with RVs, but only the towable (travel trailer or fifth wheel) type. We tried renting motor homes a few times and decided: a) You’re going to be towing something anyway and, b) the TT/Fiver configurations get you a nice truck to use the rest of the time.
We started RV camping in 1981, and are on our 7th RV at this point (2 pop ups, 2 travel trailers, and now our third fifth wheel). As others have noted, it can be difficult to get quality, even at exorbitant prices.
The RV industry isn’t subject to lemon laws, and their warranties don’t work like automobiles. Everything in the camper has its own manufacturer’s warranty – the dealer covers almost nothing. If your fridge craps out, you get to use the Norcold, or Dometic or Furrion’s warranty. And they may want you to remove the fridge and ship it to them to evaluate. As you can imagine, many things aren’t worth the trouble or expense to get warranty work and you end up handling it yourself. Using a warranty usually involves cancelling a vacation. This is by design, BTW. There are Youtube videos of Grand Design owners discovering their entire RV frame had broken. The manufacturer basically told them that Lippert built the frame and they could remove part of the RV body at their own expense and ship the remains back to Indiana. But otherwise to FOAD, it wasn’t their problem. They, quite literally, had a new 6-figure fifth wheel that was worthless. Google “Grand Design frame flex” for a collection of horror stories. IIRC, this eventually ended up as a class action suit, but the hosed owners still can’t travel with their “new” rigs.
We just (last month) bought a new fifth wheel trailer. While testing everything at home, I discovered one of the waste tank valves was stuck. Since we’d had it only a few days and the fix was strenuous, we had the dealership fix it under warranty – that took 3 weeks. We knew this was a possibility and intentionally bought while we had time set aside for this sort of repair, so no ruined trips for us. But in the future I plan mostly DYI, even if it involves welding.
Most of the industry has been bought up by two main players: Thor and Winnebago. And they have pushed a weaponized form of corporate enshittification onto every brand they contaminate. If you heard in the past (as I did) of the amazing quality of the Airstream brand, forget it. Wally Byam died a long time ago, and his legacy has been turned into little more than toilet paper for corporate finance folk. Again, google “Airstream frame separation” for more stories.
If it sounds like I’m trying to scare you, I am. Most of these machines are designed to last from the dealership to your home – and no further.
So what should you do, and why am I still buying them? As others have said, it really helps to be a DIY-er. A lot of the repairs are actually pretty simple.
Again, I don’t claim expertise, but there are still a few, small manufacturers who aren’t part of the big cartels yet. I’m not sure of the trustworthy motorhome builders, but for trailers you can still find quality in the Northwoods/Nash, Oliver, and (maybe) Brinkley brands. Northwoods is in @Chefguy’s old stomping grounds and they make Arctic Fox and Outdoors RVs. There are probably some small motorhome builders who produce quality as well, but I don’t know which ones.
In addition to the excellent advice upthread, I’d add a few more suggestions:
- Pay particular attention to the roof (unless it’s a metal one on a van). Find out if the rig has been stored under a cover instead of outside in the sun.
- Try to look in cabinets, under sinks, and in all the interstitial spaces not normally seen on a walkthru. Are the water/gas lines just poked through holes in the bulkheads or are they supported/protected via grommets and such? What you see in the hidden spaces is an example of what was done beneath the floor with piping, wiring and ducting.
- Crawl underneath and see how well the underbelly covering (Coroplast) is attached, and how well done the openings for drains and access are handled. Again, if it’s cheaply thrown together, that’s showing you the standard used elsewhere.
- If you’re considering a model with slide outs (room slides), find out which types are used, and pay close attention to what is actually “sliding”. There are two main types, Schwintek (small, in-wall motors which must synchronize via computer to remain aligned) and Rack/Pinion (single large motor turning sizable gears beneath the floor - doesn’t require computers to operate). If the room slide is large, or has appliances in it (fridge/sink) then be really cautious. Remember, all those water/gas/drain lines have to bend repeatedly as it goes in and out. If a large slide is actuated by the Schwintek type motors, I would reject that floorplan. Those are designed only for very lightweight slide/boxes like a closet etc. Manufacturers continue to try using them for entire kitchens and it works fine from their POV. It doesn’t fail for a few years and you’re gone and it’s your problem. Insist on seeing the slides operate and evaluate them both extended and retracted, so you can see what’s accessible during travel. This should be a deal-breaker and non-negotiable.
Best of luck in your search, and I’ll be happy to answer any questions I can. Sorry about the dearth of actual motor home experience but hopefully I can help some.