Obviously some sort of action/response method is in order. Any breeds that are better for training? I’ve heard that Dobermans are especially good.
I donno about Dobermans, but I need to train a dnooman 
Moved to IMHO.
-xash
General Questions Moderator
What is it that you want to train them to do? Are you talking about potty training? Obedience training? Agility?
If you’re just talking about plain old obedience, then there are a number of excellent books out there. I’d highly recommend getting your dog into a puppy class (In my area, they have to be at least 6 months old). Usually the instructor will have handouts complete with several reference books and articles.
If you want to train a dog to do specific things (like agility) some dogs ARE better suited to certain training than others.
I mention agility because I happen to own aussies, (the dogs, not the folks :D). These dogs were not only BORN to do this, they LOVE it.
Aussies are one breed that you’ll frequently see chasing and catching frisbees in all sorts of creative ways. If you have hunting dogs, then you’d want to train your dog for (I think they’re called) “Field Trials”. That’s where they fetch fake ducks, and stalk, stuff like that.
At any rate, it all starts with a solid foundation of obedience training. You can do it yourself, but a good puppy class is a nice scheduled and organized way to train your dog.
It also gives you and your dog some great one on one bonding and learning experiences. It’s something that is JUST for him, and they seem to know it.
It doesn’t sound as if you have a breed in mind yet, but you’re smart for researching which breed would be good for which type of owner.
Good luck, hope that helps.
General (and oversimplified) answer to the training question: if you want an animal to do a particular action, you guide the animal to do the action and then you reward them for doing it.
A good training method is clicker training. It’s gentle and mostly non-coercive (it’s essentially the method they use to train dolphins/orcas etc., only with a whistle instead of a clicker) You first associate the sound of a clicker with a positive reinforcement (usually a treat). Then you use the clicker to mark when the animal has done a behavior you want to reinforce. So when the dog hears a click, he knows he’s done something right, and that he’s going to be rewarded. The tricky bit is that your timing needs to be pretty sharp, so a class with someone who knows how to teach you is a good idea.
dnooman, I agree with CanvasShoes. If you have a puppy, get to a puppy class as soon as you can. The classes are also great for socialization (getting the dog used to the company of other dogs and other people.) If you’re just thinking about getting a dog, think about why you want the dog, and what you want it to do. If you want a good, trainable dog, a lot of the working dogs (i.e., dobermans, german shepherds) are good. Some of the sporting dogs (golden retrievers, labs) are good all-round dogs and very trainable. Some of the hounds (Afghan hounds) are less interested in obedience. Some of the herding breeds (border collies, some Aussies) are too smart and active for most people, but they can be wonderful dogs to train.
CanvasShoes, aren’t Aussies great? Sometimes obnoxious and hard-headed, but wonderful dogs, if you can take the activity level. I have one Aussie (very low-key for an Aussie, but she’s 13) and 2 Aussie-mixes. My #1 dog died of a hemangiosarcoma in September, and I still really miss her. Some day I hope to have another stubborn, high-drive, crazy, wonderful dog like her again.
Ask two dog trainers the best way to train a dog, and the only thing they’ll agree on is that the other is wrong.
The methods you use will pretty much solely depend on what works for you and your dog. The breed, your experience, your desired goals, your commitment to training, and the individual personality of the dog will all be determining factors in what works best.
Different breeds of dogs have different levels of “trainability”–some dogs are eager and willing to learn, and comply with your request for a specific set of behaviors. Other breeds, such as the various hounds, are designed to work independantly of their owner, and as such, are much happier to do what they want to do, and you’ll need to work very hard to motivate and train them.
To repeat CanvasShoes, what is it you’re trying to train for? If you just want basic obedience and a mannerly dog, most breeds will fit that bill with the proper training and socialization. No dog will fit that bill without some time and energy on your part.*
As for training methods, there are as many out there as there are trainers. Everybody’s got a different idea of what works “best.” In my opinion, what works “best” will not be the same for every dog. Some dogs pick up clicker work instantly, other dogs need a firmer leader and more structured training to be happy. I’m probably opening a giant can of worms here, but The Koehler Method of Dog Training is an excellent book–follow it to the letter and you’ll have a very mannerly dog who is happy to work–but you must follow it to the letter. You cannot be the type that yanks a dog around by the collar and calls it training–that’s not effective for anybody. Don’t fall into the PR trap of “purely positive” trainers who claim that anybody who uses a leash correction is the spawn of satan and a dog abuser. Koehler is often decried in these circles, but read the book and think for yourself before coming to a conclusion. For example, when teaching the “sit” excercise, you gently guide the dog into a sitting position about fifty times in the first few lessons for that behavior. The next fifty or so, you gently guide the dog into a sitting position, while saying “sit”. Only after the dog has practiced “sit” well over a hundred times, and clearly demonstrates that he knows the word “sit” and the appropriate response (dog must be reliably sitting on command for several lessons), do you offer a leash correction if the dog does not sit. In other words, you teach the dog what you want, the dog must demonstrate that he knows the correct response, then and only then do you correct. Yanking the leash around and punishing the dog for something that they haven’t yet learned is not effective leash correction–it’s inhumane punishment. If, after the first hundred repititions, the dog clearly does not understand what you’re asking for when you say “sit”–you go back and repeat those early lessons until he does. Never, ever offer a correction of any kind, until you are positive the dog understands the command. Again, that’s not training, that’s abuse.
Clicker training and bridge and target training are both excellent methods as well. Operant conditioning methods allow a more open communication between you and the dog, and are capable of teaching very complex behaviors in a way that other types of training cannot. However, they’re often harder to use for very basic commands. It’s fairly easy to clicker-train a sit–harder to get a perfect “heel”.
I think there needs to be balance in all training methods. Everything you do should be positive and upbeat–the dog should be happy and excited to learn, no matter what methods you choose. If your dog looks droopy and reluctant to work, you’re doing something wrong. Period.
A long answer to a short question ;). Gist: there’s no “best” way, other than what works for you and your dog. Find a method that teaches your dog solid, reliable manners, and keeps them happy to train. Find something you’re comfortable with, and something you can stick with and continue to use the rest of your (and your dog’s) life.
Oops.
*Okay, some dogs do. My parents’ golden has had approximately ten minutes of training in his entire life, and is the perfect housedog. He’s a non-maintenance dog. Really never met another one like him.
Mixie - you said it all 
… n’ I’m into dog training. Good lord, I agreed?! 
I’m into operant conditionning a lot, but with service dogs and working dogs, we end up using a nice mix of old techniques and OC. Clicker training is a good place to start, but you have to know what you’re doing. It’s also a fairly frustrating process when you begin.
Picking a breed depends on what you want to do with your dog. If you’re big into obedience, then I’d suggest you look at working with a retriever - a Golden Retriever, or a Labrador. They’re exhuberant as puppies, but they’re very good workers. Also in there, the Standard Poodle (Please don’t yelp! They’re not all poofy cutsy dogs! They were bred to be retrievers!), who is a very bright dog, and is hypoallergenic. Good breed for many as a first dog.
Aussies were suggested above - brilliant at just about everything: agility, obedience, frisbee, flyball, tracking and total pain in the assdom. If you go this route be sure you let the breeder know exactly what kind of puppy you want, and have him/her pick it for you. They can be hell on wheels. Case in point: Zap! She’s 35 pounds of pure raw chaos and hasn’t slowed down yet. She’ll be 2 in February.
I personally totally ADORE dobermen. There have been a few in my obedience classes. They make good watchdogs, but are complete sucks. They do need a good strong handler when they go through their teens.
Again, it all depends what you want to do with your dog. I’d avoid the Border Collie as a first dog, even if it’s bright as can be and all that. They truly ARE high energy dogs of doom at times. I’d also avoid working-line Aussies, who can be pretty high strung.
As a final note: do consider an adult/young adult dog, too. Some breeders keep their pick puppy (whom they were going to keep for their breeding program) and have it trained in obedience, show, what-else-not already (of have started the process!) but then choose not to use the dog in their breeding program. Others would love to see one of their stock dogs placed in a home (and available for the breeder to use, say, as a stud!). They come mostly well trained, and give you really REALLY good backgrounds to work with. The breeders are usually super involved, too, which is good if you want to try all sorts of things with a dog that has gotten out of the “insane-destructo-puppy-terror-of-doom” phase.
G’luck!
Elly
When I was on a malamute listserv, many people recommended books by the “Monks of the New Skete”.
If this is your first dog, don’t get a malamute.
Whistlepig
Well, in my NOT so humble opinion, only the best dogs on the planet! But yes, they are VERY high energy, the family calls my female either “psycho” or “the amphetimine with 4 legs” and since she wags her little butt so hard she bends herself in half (and then walks that way) my boyfriend calls her the “double-assed” dog (snort!).
So far the puppy (a male) is a bit more mellow and next to “psycho” doesn’t seem as bright. But she’s unusually intelligent, even for an aussie, so she’s a hard act to follow.
Smartest dog on the planet too. Yikes, I’d better stop, I could brag all day.
Archer, Hugs on losing your aussie!! I hope her “clone” soon. They certainly are wonderful dogs, my heart goes out to you.
Oh THAT made no sense, (argh I think it’s naptime).
That was supposed to be "I hope you FIND HER “clone’ soon”. ack!
A good rule of thumb a breeder told me, many moons ago, on the topic of training:
If you take an obedience class, and what the instructor asks you to do makes you feel uncomfortable, then it’s not the right method for you or your dog.
Sometimes, too, it varies from dog to dog. What works with one doesn’t work with another. My NSDTR (Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever) is so soft in temperament, and aching so badly to please that Operant Conditionning (clicker training) was perfect for him and built his confidence up. In the obedience ring, he was FLAWLESS because he wanted to please.
My Aussie, who is one HARD bitch, does well with a mixture of OC, old training methods, and some mix of all sorts of philosophies. We’re in a perpetual battle of wills, and sometimes an alpha-roll with a mega growl from me works far better than trying to shape a behavior. We used to have issues with respect of authority. We’re doing better
Working with the NSDTR is a joy - a master/dog relationship.
Working with the Aussie is like a cop partnership. I’m the good cop, she’s the bad cop. Whatever she does isn’t to PLEASE me. There’s GOTTA be something in it for her. Otherwise, she’s totally loving and affectionate. When it comes to work and training, though, it has to be Value-Added for the Aussie, otherwise, I get blown off.
Case in point: obedience trial/test. I took the Aussie into the ring, she behaved like a total ass. Trained for two more weeks. The equation was simple:
good aussie in class = BIG chunk of liver after class.
ass-tacular aussie? = No liver. Won’t even TALK to you.
Three weeks later, obedience trial #2. Showed the Aussie a chunk of liver and left it with a friend, outside the ring (well out of sight.) Aussie performed like a dream. She got liver, a HIT, and a 199.0 score. Wench.
How funny Elenfair.
See, this is a perfect example of how different dogs perform differently. My female is a miniature aussie, a new breed recognized by the American Stock Dog Association, but not yet recognized by the AKC (at least at the time I bought her they weren’t, that was nearly 5 years ago, so they might be now).
At any rate, shoesdog will work for fun. She’ll drop a steakbone like a hot potato if someone even spells the word “boomer” (a boomer ball, a hard plastic ball that some dogs love to play doggie “soccer” with). The phrase “well, I guess you need to get rid of some doggie energy” will also clue her in to the fact that she’s going to get to play boomer, the second she hears the first few words, “well I guess…” she goes ballistic with excitement.
Any athletic things (like frisbee), she’ll do and learn just for the fun of the game, but tricks, she’ll only do for treats (little snot!).
Zap’s a teenager.
She only does it if she thinks it’s cool.
She opens doors (using the mechanisms for the handicapped) as part of her training, and thinks this is THE BOMB.
Getting her to pick up stuff and hand it to you is fine, so long as it’s COOL STUFF. Money? Fuggitaboutit. Not unless there’s a dog toy on that conveyer belt at the store…
Brats, they are.
Frisbee is a sacred word around this house. She will go BONKERS for it, and will retrieve it until your arm falls off. Same goes for the Kong on a Rope.
She amuses people at the dog park no end with her boundless energy, and most importantly, her SPEED. I don’t have a “show-line-type” aussie. She’s a freakin’ RAIL. 20" tall at the shoulder, and yet only 35 pounds. She’s all ribs, and spine and LEGS. But BOY can she run.
And I should say, she’s a damned fine worker too. I’ve never had so much fun training as I’m having with her.
YAY AUSSIES!
Y’all’s Aussies sound like my Sasha. She was a hard dog, and a bundle of energy too. Elenfair, we had a lot of battles of will, especially at first. She loved to argue with me, and she always had to “help,” no matter what I was doing.
We did a lot of different things in training too. Sometimes I envied people with quiet, biddable dogs, but then I wouldn’t have had her wild enthusiasm and “go get 'em” attitude either.
We’re just giving the remaining dogs lots of extra love now. (They got a little short-changed before, because Sasha demanded most of our time.)
Here is the page I made for her.
What a beautiful dog! Your Bouncer shares the same blue merle color of both of my aussies.
If I knew how to link to photos, I’d show them off. I don’t have a website for them though.
What a lovely pup!
Zap! has some pictures of my red merle aussie, Zap.
http://zappuppy.tripod.com/valen.html has the pictures of her much put upon older brother, Valen.
There are a lot of good training methods, but training works best with a general philosophy of patience, persistence and practice.
Patience is key, because getting frustrated will only hurt the learning process.
Persistence/consistency are very important. You need to have the dog’s attention and then repeat obedience/tricks by the same command everytime. Dogs (and anyone) learn quicker with always and never than with sometimes.
Practice is obvious. The more practice in training, the more reliable and consistent the dog will be at the command. One thing to consider with puppies though, their attention span is short. So long practice sessions don’t help. Usually short sessions with fun breaks work best. Maybe start out at a particular time everyday for about 10-15 minutes.
As for what breed, all types of dogs can be taught obedience to some level. It’s probably best to match the general personality of a breed to your lifestyle, which will make life better for both of you. Don’t count out mutts though. I know some great mix dogs that were very good to train.
Elenfair, both your dogs are lovely! I’ve never met a NSDTR personally, but I understand they’re great dogs.
CanvasShoes, Bouncer gets a lot of compliments when I take him out. The blue merle color is really striking. (So is the red merle, actually – just not as commonly seen.)
Yes, the red merle is really pretty too. I get lots of compliments on Cricket (my female blue merle mini-aussie) too.
Her confirmation is more slight and “foxlike” than that of the regular aussie, people frequently think she’s some sort of wild dog or fox until they get up close.
Kirby, the puppy, is a standard blue merle aussie, but he’s not as dark as Bouncer, I really like the darker merles, Very pretty.