It’s hard to get one that looks “real”. Details aren’t all that important in a long shot, but it has to fall correctly. How does a body fall correctly? Have you ever seen anyone fall to his death? In a few of the short videos I’ve seen, there is often some sort of movement such as flailing, struggling with a parachute, etc. How do you do that with a dummy? Maybe if the subject was a dead body…
I saw a spectacularly bad “body throw” in I Dismember Momma that was simply a store mannequin.
astro suggested sewing up a mannequin. You improve on that idea to build a simple armature out of wooden dowels so that it bends in the right places.
If you’re looking for something a little more graphic, check out “Bob” here: http://pw1.netcom.com/~heliboy/bob.jpg
“Bob” is a rotting corpse I picked up for a couple-hundred dollars at a Halloween store. There are also rotting corpse kits available from a few companies, which you can find by doing a quick search on infoseek or hotbot.
Of course, not all realistic bodies are rotting. You could make one using materials from Walco 佛跳墙桌面专业破解版_一键访问国外网站 The process is simple, but painstaking, messy, and a little expensive. Here’s a simple, abbreviated technique:
Find a model. Lay the model on his back (I’m using “his” as the general grammatical term, so as to avoid the awkward “his/her”). Make a dam out of cardboard or something that seperates the front and back of his body. Cover him with alginate (what dentists use to mould your teeth). Do it quickly, as it sets up rapidly. Have help; for example, have a couple of people slopping the stuff on while someone else mixes up more. Once the subject is covered, cover the alginate with gauze strips pre-impregnated with plaster-of-Paris. The gauze and plaster will supply a supporting matrix for the fragile alginate. When it’s dry, you can pull the mould right off. Repeat for the subject’s back, making sure the “latteral line” is in the same place for a good match between the halves. (Oh, I should point out that the head should probably be molded seperately. Use a “bald wig” to protect the hair.)
Once you have the two body half moulds, you can join them together and fill them through the neck hole. There are several different materials you can use for the fill. Plaster is the cheapest, but there are other things that give more detail. Be careful of bubbles.
Now you have a “statue” that is the positive mould. You can use it over and over again. Prepare the surface with a sealant, and then with a mould-release product. Make another negative mould using the statue in place of the human body. (The reason you don’t use the original alginate mould is because it’s too fragile.) Apply mould-release to the inside and join the halves together. Coat the inside with a silicone “skin” (there are several varieties. Check places like Walco.), making sure it’s all covered. WHen it’s set (and you’ll want to make sure all of the surfaces are evenly covered) you can use injected foam to fill it. Oops, I almost forgot. When you have your new positive mould you can add the positive mould of the head for a complete body. Oh, and you’ll need holes for the air to escape when you fill it with foam.
In any case, when this whole thing is set, you’ll have a complete body ready for paint/makeup, hair, wardobe, etc.
That’s a very short and basic technique. Tom Savini has a couple of good books out there, and there are also a few very good mould-making books. You might want to pick them up.
Or you could just have a sewing machine maven sew a body up for you. 