I stand corrected. It does sound like this is a problem.
Now this may be a factor. It just occurred to me that auto manufacturers don’t run their plastic parts through the paint system as the body. Instead, they’re brought in from the supplier already painted. It’s not the same paint process, and in fact may not even be the same brand of paint (there are lots of checks and balances in place to ensure that color matching is accurate, though). A car body goes through a chemical bath, then an ecoat system, then paint, then maybe more paint, then an oven, then clearcoat, then another oven. I have no idea how plastic, body-colored trim pieces are made and colored.
Could it be multi-layer paint jobs? Paradoxically, thicker paint is more prone to chip-maybe LEXUS is trying to emulate M-B (multiple paint layers).
Actually, now that you mention it, Mercedes is pretty chip-prone, too.
The thing is, all cars will suffer from this from interstate driving. But some, as I noted, are apparently more prone to it than others.
I wish an autobody guy with some painting experience would lay this to rest.
Just a thought - could it be something in the shape that directs air more forcefully, or in greater volume, at the front of the car? And might that additional air, or more forceful air, carry more particulates so the paint just receives more impacts? (curious Toyota Avalon owner who thinks there are way more chips in the front of the Avalon than any other car I’ve owned)
we’ve owned 4 Lexus vehicles (no speculation on the plural form…) and I have never noticed any paint chips other than those we caused ourselves (i.e. scrapes). The last two have had clear bras on the front, but still no chips anywhere else.
Those protective bras will ideally eliminate the chipping. If you read the Lexus owner links I provided, it isn’t clear as to whether or not this is a specific model year issue. Do you regularly drive on interstates, or just about town. Speeds make a difference, obviously.
My Dad has an Avalon that is a 2007 model. He rarely drives it (as they have a 2006 Sienna) so I’m not sure if he’s got any undue rock damage.
But I have a 2006 Scion Xa (which is a Toyota) and I have a LOT of chipping, and I don’t drive to work any further than the average joe.
My boss’s 2002 Lexus is HORRIBLY chipped up, granted, it has 160,000 miles on it, but still…I see brand new Lexus cars (and mind you, other Toyotas) all the time and they ALL exhibit premature damage that in my mind is preventable, given a lack of concurrent front-end damage to other vehicles in the same age range.
Perhaps it should really be Lices.
FoieGras, have you noticed whether the chipping tends to affect certain colors more than others? I know that GM had blue paint issues for many years and Nissans tend to have problems with the dark red. Could it be weather related? I’ve never noticed that particular problem here in the south, but when I go up to your neck of the woods to visit, it becomes apparant.
Balthisar had a point: plastic parts come in with most of their paint on them and IME a few years ago when I worked in the industry (things may have changed since) they only go through the last two paint processes with the rest of the body.
Are the side mirrors treated the same way? I assume they are, as they are also plastic, and alas, more prone to rock chips.
Edit: and I’ll have to start paying attention to color differences. Don’t know at this point.
Wouldn’t it be Toyotae?
Actually, none of the manufacturers I’ve ever visited (including Europeans’, Asians’, and Americans’ plants) put any of the exterior trim through the plants’ paint processes at all. Disclaimer: Saturn used/uses a lot of plastic fenders, and I’ve never been to one of their Saturn-only facilities, so I don’t know what their fenders go through.
Instead, only the body goes through the paint process, usually with doors, box (if a pickup), and other closures/fenders on the same paint skid if not attached to the vehicle. It’s not until several hours later that all of the body-cladding and other trim and final assembly items are added. Things like mirrors, bumper covers, etc., come off the suppliers’ trucks already in the appropriate, matching colors. If you look at lower end versions of most cars, you’ll actually see that they don’t have matching color external trim, but rather a generic grey or black. This is a huge cost save. When you look at the window sticker for upgraded versions of base models, you’ll see a line indicating matching body color panels as an option, either cost free or at some cost.
I used to work for PPG making paint for Chrysler autos. I have no idea what brand of paint Toyota uses, but it may be the restrictions American Governmental agencies put on paint. The EPA requires that a minimum of solvents be used in automotive paint. For this reason most (all?) passenger cars made in the US use e-coat/powder coat paint with a solvent-based clear-coat. Trucks and busses generally use solvent-based paints.
Most Toyota parts are manufactured over-seas, but assembled in the US. They of course, are then painted in the US as well. I would guess that they use a different paint formulation for it’s plastic parts, which actually works well with Japanese paint, but doesn’t work as well with the water-based paint which is required in the Sates.
In my recollection (possibly a little rusty, I’m 15 years removed from the business), it depended on if they were the same color or a contrasting one. Most autos back then tended to have neutral side mirrors, so they didn’t go through the paint shop with the car.
The Saturn plant in Spring Hill, TN is one that I have been in in their early years. The late BOC plant in Flint, MI and the Willow Run plant in Ypsilinti, MI were the others. At that time, GM was using a lot of plastic on the front and rear for cosmetics (the molded areas holding your taillights comes to mind right off the bat) and they did go through the final two paint processes. As I said earlier, it’s been a few years and the processes might have changed.
Yes, but they are likely a different plastic. Stiffer and less pliable. It really does make a difference.
Not so. You can check the car’s data plate for country content. cars.com has a rating that takes into account source info and sales so may not be perfect. The Ford Mustang (60%). Honda Civic up to 70% are examples. Paint source is as you said. US is a leader in low volatility paints and is an exporter to, ta-da, Japan, for the auto industry.
At one time they did import and assemble but that’s near 20 years out of date. Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Ford, GM, and all buy from all over. Percentages change yearly or monthly depending on the deal.
Singular operum.
I believe that I read once somewhere that Zymol, which makes different waxes for different brand cars, has Japon wax for Japanese cars, due to the paint thickness. Their website does not list the reason, just that it’s for Japanese cars.
"Zymol waxes are actually “zymes” that turn into wax when exposed to air during application on your paint surface. Japon Wax for marque specific cars with Japanese paintwork, is suitable for all paint types and colours. Contains 37% Carnauba by volume. Caution: Do not allow any zymol wax to entirely dry before wiping. You may apply several coats.
Ingredients:
Contains Carnauba Wax (derived from Palmetto), Montan Oil, Coconut Oil, Banana Oil, Propolis (derived from Bees), Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Cocoamide (derived from coconut oil) and FD&C Blue #1. Contains 37% Brazilian No. 1 Yellow Carnauba by volume."
and…
“Japon™ Wax, with respect to Japanese cars, is the canonic Carbon™ Wax chemical formula by means of an special drying federal agent to advance not quite quick setup of a lean bed of wax”
I have a headache now. Thanks!
(I own a White 2006 Toyota Solara Convertible which I would love to keep for a long time. Maybe some improvement has been made. I see no chips after 24,000 miles of typical mixed driving, including Interstate 95 in the NE corridor of the USA and the New Jersey Turnpike. Pretty busy and dirty roads. ).