Windows 7, five month old Bose speakers.
Everything is turned on and plugged in correctly, as far as I can tell. The sound control panel tells me the device plugged in is a “Realtek High Definition Audio Default Device” - is this right? They’ve been working fine, then quit working for no reason I can tell.
I can plug in headphones and get sound that way, just not the external speakers.
Anything I can check or tweak, or perhaps it’s the speakers themselves? I don’t have another set I can try.
Plug the speakers into the headphone jack on an MP3 player. If you get sound, the issue is with your computer audio settings somewhere. If the problem is with the speakers, giving us the exact model number would be helpful.
I don’t have an mp3 player. Or anything else I can plug the speakers into, right now.
It’s these Bose speakers.
Just plug the speakers into the earphone jack. The volume would be super low, but you could still confirm that they are working. I say they are and the output settings to the sound board are muted or something. All the jacks plugged? Power on? I doubt the speakers would go out suddenly.
Why didn’t I think of that…:smack:
OK, just did it. No sound from the speakers at all.
AFAIK, nothing is muted (I’ve checked everything I can think of) and everything is plugged in correctly. I also think it unlikely the speakers would just go out but right now I have no other way to check them. Tomorrow I can.
Possible issues in approximate order of likelihood:
Power problem - plugged in won’t help if the power adapter is pooched. Looking at the manual I’m not sure if there’s power leds that would help determine this. If you have a multimeter you could check the voltage on the power plug.
Bad audio patchcord - looks to me like it’s a standard stereo headphone plug to 2 male rca plugs, so a replacement cord would be easy to come by.
Failed switched headphone jack in the right speaker - looks to me like there’s a headphone jack on the right speaker which, if something’s plugged into it, mutes the speakers. This will be done via contacts which engage/disengage based on the presence of a plug in the jack. These contacts could have failed, or be stuck open from something lodging between them or inside the jack. It would likely be pretty easy to open the case and bypass that switch at the expense of losing that functionality.
They’re dead, Jim. It’s possible there’s a problem with internal wiring that would be fixable, but the most likely internal issue is actually fried amplifier or power regulation transistors, at which point replacement is the answer. Hopefully if this is the case the warranty is good for new ones.