I’m tired of the high cable fees I pay to Comcast so I’m looking at getting a Blu-ray player with built-in Wifi. I understand this player will play DVD’s as well as let me surf the web. The trouble is that I have an old TV set bought from Montgomery Ward that still works well and I can’t afford to replace with a smart TV. Is there such a thing as an adapter that will let me use the TV I’ve got with the Blu-ray until I can afford a new TV set? I’m not really tech savvy so please use simple words and concepts a doofus could follow. TIA
Hi.
Yes a Blu-Ray Player will (should) play DVDs, surfing the web is only available on some devices so don’t assume that all devices will have this functionality and is going to be basic at best.
As to whether it will work with your current TV, are you able to say what inputs your TV has? An HDMI port would be ideal…
I think it’s pretty clear that no TV bought at Monkey Wards would have an HDMI port, any more than an Edison phonograph would play MP3’s. 
The problem with modern digital media is that a lot of it is locked to HDCP, meaning it simply won’t play on anything but a compatible (conforming) HDMI display device.
Medstar, what inputs does your TV have? Anything beyond composite video (yellow RCA connector, typically with red and white stereo audio connectors)?
I have learned from experience that some Blu-Ray players include these sorts of outputs while others do not.
In case it needs to be said, you will still need an internet service provider in order to use WiFi in any way, unless you live someplace where you already have free internet access.
Most new Blu Ray players only have HDMI outputs and a coaxial output. You could run a coax cable between the Blu Ray and DVD, but that’s the worst option for picture and sound.
If your TV has the red, yellow, and white input jacks, also known as composite or RCA inputs, they make HDMI to composite converters like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009CL8NH0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1404499383&sr=8-1
I understand this player will play DVD’s as well as let me surf the web.
“Surf the Web” isn’t how I would put it. It’s more like the ability to connect to certain, specific, internet based services like YouTube, Crackle, etc. I’ve never seen a player that has a conventional web browser. It doesn’t mean they don’t exist, but I doubt it.
The take-away is that unless you have the buying fever, it pays to go to the website of the maker of the machine you’re thinking about and take the time to read about what it can really do and that it’s what you expect.
The “will it work with my TV” is non-techie simple. Once again, go to the manufacturer’s website and pull up a picture of the back of the player and then look at the available connectors on the television. If you find a matching set you’re good to go. If not, then some types of signal converters might work, or not. I’ve had setups that should have worked on paper, but just didn’t once I tried them with my specific equipment.
Right, but I’m trying to establish if the TV is even new enough to have direct inputs. My last MW TV had none - just an antenna.
Which will do no good with HDCP-protected broadcasts, streaming and discs. The whole HDCP system is to prevent high-quality (sometimes any-quality) signals from getting to a device that can re-record them. Only certified HDCP-compliant TVs and monitors will display such images. Most HDMI converters don’t qualify; the bits will go in but they won’t come out.
I had to dump a very good Panasonic plasma a few years ago because it did not have HDMI, and then later a very good Denon amp went on the shelf because I had to have true, compliant HDMI switching and decoding. It’s a hurdle there is no good workaround from.
Probably time for a new TV. Too much expense and limited capability trying to work around the lack of an HDCP/HDMI device for the eyeballs.
As others have said, you must tell us what type of video input connections your TV has. At best, it probably only has RCA (red/yellow/white circular holes), and S-Video (black circle with a notch and ~dozen small metal pins). I don’t think even the latest Montgomery Wards TVs had component (Blue/Red/Green) connectors and certainly not HDMI.
Assuming you even have RCA or S-video connectors (probably), you’re almost certainly going to need a converter of some sort that will convert the digital HDMI to analog composite RCA… and that doesn’t always work well. It’s so unreliable, I wouldn’t even recommend it. And if you’re not comfortable with what we’re all saying with the different types of video inputs and whatnot, then it’s just not going to be an option. All new Blu-Ray players are HDMI only coming out, I believe, due to copyright stuff. So you’d have to resort to buying a very old Blu-Ray player to get one with RCA video/audio output. And that’s even assuming your TV has these plugs. It may not.
You really are going to need a new TV, more likely than not.
You can get new Blu-Ray players for a little as $50 (though you should carefully check what capabilities it has if you want some type of internet access) and a new 22 or 25 inch compatible TV for less than $200. If you are okay with used equipment, you could probably get it all for under $100–but again, you’ll either need to educate yourself a bit or have a tech-savvy friend help to make sure you’re getting working equipment that does what you want.
I would look into the interface for internet programming, not all are created equal, the Sony I have is horrible and discourages me from using it.
Yes, my TV has the composite video set up with the RCA connector and the red and white stereo audio connectors. Thanks for all of your replies; I was hoping to use my old TV long enough to save up enough money for a 55" to 60" smart TV I could hang on the wall. I’m just sick and tired of Comcast.
Pretty sure that composite video won’t transmit at 1080p, or even 720p (even if you can get around HDCP, which you probably can’t easily). Might as well get a Roku/Apple TV/Android TV stick + a regular DVD player.
The right TV would be the next best purchase. Little point in buying workaround/band-aid tech. A moderately-sized “smart” TV would do a lot of what the OP wants* while providing a platform for future growth.
*As mentioned, read reviews on the Smart TV interface carefully. Many just plain suck. A Roku Stick is a cheap ($50) upgrade, though. Maybe a good not-smart TV and a Stick are a better choice.