Advice on men’s suits

Cuffs are only “out” for short people because they make the leg appear shorter. Us non-Oompa Loompa types don’t need to worry about that. :wink:

There is no such thing as trends in traditional men’s clothing.

Don’t wear brown suits.

Khaki suits are acceptable in the warmer climates or seasons.

Brown shoes are fine with a grey suit, but not a navy suit.

A white shirt is always the perfect shirt.

If you buy your suits off the rack, spend a little extra and have it properly tailored. Nothing looks worse than an ill fitting suit.

Wear good quality shoes. Don’t wear the same pair day after day. Cycle them. Keep them polished and in good condition.

Cuffs with pleats only. Don’t get pleats.

I recommend the OP look at news articles about bankers, lawyers, business peoples, and other suit wearers from various decades to see why the quoted poster is incorrect.

European cuts are indeed supposed to be uncomfortable. :cool:

At any rate, such suits are likely to be tighter than what one might wear in the US or The UK.

Tell me what significant changes have been made in traditional men’s suits in the last 20 years.

I must agree and I have strong feelings about brown suits. IMHO, they are a real pain.

Brown suits are definitely very difficult to co-ordinate with ties and shirts. IMO, the only time a business man should wear brown shoes is with a brown suit.

It’s difficult to select a tie for a brown suit. The only good colors for a tie to wear with a brown suit (again IMO) is red or brown or maybe orange (but orange only with a dark brown suit).

Some men like to wear light blue shirts or even pink shirts. But with a brown suit, I wouldn’t wear any kind of shirt except for a white shirt.

It’s a terrible, terrible mistake when wearing a brown suit to wear a blue shirt or a blue tie. That’s just an awful combination.

Some people refuse to wear black shoes with a brown shirt. I would disagree. There is never anything wrong with black shoes. But many people think any kind of shoes look bad with a brown suit - except for brown shoes.

I would strongly advise you to avoid brown suits because they are so difficult to wear frequently. You really can’t wear them more often than once per week and that makes them very expensive over the course of a year.

Some important changes that I really appreciate.

  1. Arm holes have become more round, less oval. This gives a much better (fitted) look.
  2. Narrower lapels.
  3. Flat front pants (no pleats), narrower in the leg, lower rise.
  4. Jackets have a more tailored profile and a shorter hem.
    But in general, suits and mens’ clothes in general are offered in a classic, modern and tailored fits.

I wish you would contribute more info. It sounds to me like you are very knowledgeable.

I wouldn’t be surprised if you actually worked in mens’ fashion. Would you mind if I asked you whether you have ever worked in mens’ fasion?

(SNIPPED liberally by me)

  1. Don’t buy a cotton suit. They’re difficult to work in, wrinkle like crazy, age horribly, and are generally either very cheap or EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE (and at that point they ought to be linen/silk anyway) If you live in or will be traveling to a warm climate, there are “tropic weight” wool suits. Ask about them in the store when you’re buying. They drape well, age beautifully, and sit nicely against the body. They will not make you noticeably more hot than a nice pair of slacks and a blazer.

  2. Most of those wheeled suitcases you see fold out, with an included garment bag. Or you can look up how to roll your suits together so they are relatively wrinkle-free. If you’re working somewhere that requires suits when you travel for business, you’re staying in a hotel that does garment pressing - when you check in, have your suits & shirts (and your ties if they need it) taken for a quick press right when you arrive.

  3. If you are wearing an actual suit in cold weather with a parka or bomber jacket or leather jacket over it, you will look like you either have NO fashion sense, or you are too broke to afford quality clothing. Neither of those are a good impression. Save up, buy quality, and get ONE nice black formal overcoat.

PS, unless you’re short and exceedingly thin, please for the love of god don’t buy pants with pleats OR cuffs. **Very few people **have the necessary shape to make them not look horrid, and I’m going by percentages here and figuring that you’re not that shape.

PPS, also don’t buy a brown suit (or IMO only, a navy suit) or any sort of vest/waistcoat until you’re more accustomed to how suits and suit-fashion works these days, and especially how it works in your particular new office culture.

Start very formal and plain:
charcoal suit, mid-range grey suit, light grey suit.
Mostly white shirts, one colored shirt: french blue is a good baseline.
Ties: dark blue (NOT NAVY) burgundy, red, perhaps a muted green (depends on your skin tone) one pattern tie (diagonal stripes are safest).

Once you’ve been there a while, then you can accessorize and branch out with different styles of shirt cuffs, cufflinks, ties, tie-bars, pocket squares, and different colored shirts, and then once you figure you’ve got your environment pegged and you instinctively know what will fit and what doesn’t fit, THEN you can head into the fancy uncharted waters of the weird individualistic shit like brown suits and waistcoats.

Otherwise you very much run the risk of having your clothing scream “LOOK AT ME AND HOW CREATIVE I AM” instead of “If you would please casually notice how well I fit into my professional environment with my peers.” Offices that ask for their representatives to be in suits generally prefer the latter impression to the former.

The Art of Manliness website has a lot of good information about clothes, grooming, and other manly pursuits.

Just a data point…

I’m in a Fortune 500 company. I commonly see executives in black suits. They also seems very common in our SE Asian customers. Meetings with the Japanese customers look like a wake.

The people who wear black suits … are they from some different country or culture?

My understanding of men’s fashion in a business environment is about businesses in North America. It could very well be different in Japan and other countries and cultures.

Do NOT wear a jacket with jeans. It makes you look like a tool.

Depends on the jacket. And the jeans. And the guy. If women can wear jeans and a boyfriend jacket, I think men can wear similar, again, carefully.

There are three variables involved and you’ve identified all of them as risky - that’s pretty much a solid recommendation against any activity. :slight_smile:

Someone wearing a blazer or (heavens forbid) suit jacket with blue jeans is doing both the garments and himself a disservice. If you’re chilly and wearing jeans, grab a sweater. If you’re going somewhere you need a jacket or blazer, wear some pants.

In fact, jeans are an iffy proposition for most any situation that doesn’t involve horses, trees or tractors. You don’t have to explain, rationalize, or excuse jeans if you don’t show up in them. (They’re like yoga pants that way.)

Yeah, millions of people wear jeans happily. And millions of people happily eat McDonalds every day. Doesn’t make either action a smart choice.

Depends on where you live. Might be fine advice for the OP in Europe.

Around here fashion jeans, an expensive collarless shirt, a sport coat with dock shoes, and no socks is practically the uniform of the stockbroker / doctor / low-end trust fund baby set. It always looks neat & put-together while embodying the studied casualness that defines the comfy-class Florida lifestyle.

You’ve gotten a lot of tips here, but I’ll suggest that rules ultimately are meant to be a guide. They are helpful when starting out, but you will develop your own sense of what looks good on you, and there will be times when you will confidently make your own rules.

So… pseudo-work pants, pseudo-athletic shirt, formal jacket and sailing shoes? How does someone over the age of five put all that on without feeling like an idiot? :slight_smile: