I am 38 and a partner in a large law firm in Atlanta. I frequently (though not always) wear a suit to work. I have had custom tailored suits, suits from Brooks Brothers, suits from Jos. A. Bank, and suits from department stores (from brands like Lauren and Hart, Schanffner and Marx). I do not wear hip work clothes because I do not want to buy all new work clothes every year. Who wants a closet full of barely worn monochrome shirt-tie combos and square-toe shoes? Anyway, these are my bona fides. In my opinion, if you would like to look professional (not Sid-Mashburn-pencil-thin-highwaters-no-socks hip and not crumpled up government rag), here’s some advice:
Fabric is very important. You’re suit should be 100% wool – no exceptions. It should be navy blue or dark gray (charcoal) – again, no exceptions. Solid is best. Two buttons. Let me repeat: two buttons. Do not wear a black suit. Black suits look cheap – even the nice ones.
Cut is also important. Not too baggy, not too tight. The pants should have a slight break. Have them size your trousers with the shoes you will be wearing and let the pants sit where you will be wearing them. If you wear your pants on your hips, have them mark the pants while you’re wearing them on your hips, not at your waist, otherwise, you’ll end up stepping all over the back. That being said, unless you have a considerable belly, try to wear your pants on your waist.
The suit is just the beginning.
You’ll need a white or blue pinpoint shirt with a straight collar and regular cuffs (save the french cuffs for the corner office). The little white plastic arrow-looking things are called collar-stays. They go in the tiny pockets on the inside of the collar. Use them. The top button of the collar should button and stay buttoned easily, but you should not be able to see the neck of your undershirt.
As for the tie, stick to primary colors: red (for the blue suit), blue or yellow (for the gray suit). The tie should have either a small repeating pattern, small dots, or bold stripes (also primary colors)
Wear an undershirt. I don’t care how hot it is, wear an undershirt. Yes, with sleeves, Sonny Corleone. And prefereably a crew neck.
Don’t wear cotton socks. Wear blue (blue suit) or black (gray suit) wool socks. They can have a little nylon in them.
Get a nice pair of black lace-up shoes. Nice lace-up shoes have leather soles. Your belt (you’ll need a belt) should be the same color as your shoes.
You can buy all of this at Jos A Bank, but, unless you buy on a sale, you’ll pay way too much. The good news is that they have a sale every fifteen minutes or so. Don’t get your shoes (or belt) there. Go to a discount shoe place (the ones that carry last year’s styles, but don’t worry the styles you’re looking for haven’t changed in 70 years). Buy a pair of black captoe lace ups. Cole Haan or Johnston & Murphy.
Plan to spend between $200 and $300 on the suit, on sale at Jos. A. Bank; $50 on the shirt; $50 on the tie; $30 on the belt; and $120 to $150 on the shoes.