Can anyone help diagnose my Honda key fob problem?

In My Humble Opinion
1

I have a 2015 Honda CRV that still serves me well. There are three ways to unlock the doors
(1) Approach the door with key fob in pocket (“Keyless entry”)
(2) Press a button on the key fob
(3) Detach a physical key from the fob and unlock the door in the old-fashioned way,
and one way to start the engine
(4) Press brake pedal and Start button simultaneously, with key fob nearby.

#3 may cause an “alarm” with the car honking but I’ve disabled that via the car’s console menu.

Beginning a month ago the orange “Keyless Entry System” warning light is on, but (2), (3), (4) all work fine. It was slightly nifty not to need to take the fob out of my pocket, but that luxury has negligible value. The spare fob doesn’t change the symptoms. Both fobs have fresh batteries and operate from a long distance.

What then is the problem you ask? When the problem first arose (2) and (4) also failed. I needed the physical key to unlock the door, and the car didn’t start. But these were transient faults that quickly went away and haven’t returned since. But I worry the problem may return and leave me unable to start my car.

The Honda service center is so busy that a 1-month delay is needed just to see my car; they will want it for 2 days; they’ve offered no opinion on what the problem is or what the price will be to fix. I think it likely I’ll pay several $100 for nothing – “Keyless entry” is a frill I don’t care about.

My questions are
(a) Is it plausible that in transitioning between Normal and Keyless-Entry-Defective, the system passed though states where (2) and (4) failed, but those states will not recur?
(b) I think there is a way to bypass the need for fob when starting engine. What is that method called? I want to contact a mechanic with the know-how and required machinery so I can call him in the (unlikely?) event I end up stranded and unable to Start engine.

2

There’s usually a spot (usually on the dash) that you can hold the key fob up to and it’ll work, even if the battery is dead…assuming the fob works otherwise. IIRC, when doing that it can get the signal from the fob via RFID.

3

I found this in the manual for a 2015 Accord.

4

If what Joey_P posted doesn’t work, pretty much all of the car manufacturers & in some cases, a specific model (ie. Corvette, separate from Chevy) have unofficial forums, a collection of owners to get together like here on the Dope. Find the one for your model/manufacturer & poke around as there’s a good chance your question has been asked & answered already. If not, join & ask away; chances are someone who is knowledgeable in your model will be able to answer, at least pointing you in the right direction, for free.

5

I don’t have a Honda, but I can confirm the method that Joey_P linked works for both Nissan and Hyundai cars. I pulled the battery from the fob and tested it on each car. So I’d suggest doing the same if you’re concerned about #4.