The game is in. Having it on disc seems to be saving me zero time because it now requires a 2-and-a-half hour update.
Some notes on the Pip-Boy edition, for those interested.
First of all the case it comes in is neat. It’s described on Amazon as “Power Armor Collectible Metal Packaging. Exclusive to the Pip-Boy Edition, this decorated metal case is the ultimate fan collectible.” It is not metal, it is plastic. I didn’t actually expect it to be metal, but it was advertised as metal. To open it up, you simply squeeze the catches on both sides then flip the top back with your third hand. Actually, it’s not that bad once you realize that the latches stay unlatched.
The Pip-Boy itself is obscured by the actual game, which you must remove and put into your drive and then occasionally look up from checking out the Pip-Boy to see that installation has stopped again waiting for you to click on something. This is a vast improvement over the Pip-Boy I got with Fallout 3, which as I’ve mentioned on this board before came unpainted and with a cheap and battery-guzzling digital clock that loses time. This one has all the printed parts actually printed. It has actually turning dials and pressable buttons.
Whereas the Fallout 3 Pip-Boy had a fake compass with an actual (non-functional) needle on a spindle, the Fallout 4 Pip-Boy has a fake Rads meter whose needle cannot move because it’s printed on. The radio dial does have an actual needle, which moves when you turn the dial across a face that doubles as the AM and FM indicator, with no clear way to switch between these modulation modes. I guide in the booklet that comes with it indicates what the other less obvious dials and buttons are meant to represent.
My Galaxy Note 4 will not fit in this thing. I didn’t think it would, and I had the heads-up that it would be nigh impossible to actually play the game wearing the damned thing anyway, and inconvenient to have to keep mounting and unmounting my phone.
There is an honest-to-got metal clasp that holds the Pip-Boy shut, and inside a velcro strap allows you to adjust the fit. I think a lot of people probably have arms thicker than mine and really stress out the padded rubber the inside is lined with. Once you’ve unclasped the thing you can pull back the catch that holds the face plate down. Inside is the tiny space where maybe your tiny ass phone would fit. It came with an assortment of foam pads for different models. Also, under the face plate you can remove the paper blocking the watch batteries from making contact. Now you can press the power button, which causes the power button to light up. And also a light on the top that the manual says is the CRT Overbrite Mode.
The stand it comes with is much better than the one that came with the old Pip-Boy, for what it’s worth. It’s got a RobCo label that marks it as Pip-Boy 3000 mk IV.
The booklet that comes with the Pip-Boy is a pleasant surprise, because it hearkens back to the humorous manuals that the first two games came with. I’m puzzled that they felt the need to write on the inside cover “Disclaimer! For setup instructions, see pages 12-33. Pages 1-11 & 34-37 of this manual are works of fiction”. I hope some game reporter ask somebody about the meeting where it was decided to add that warning. Anyway, it’s too much to try to relate the various jokes in the manual itself. Somebody will scan it and put it up on the net. I will mention that there is a page of suggested uses of the case on a page in the back, including propping the lid open with a stick as a vermin trap.
And now my game is halfway done updating from Steam. Is Steam really that busy, or is there no real functional difference between installing from disc and downloading from Steam?