Before I start my review, I wanted to express my admiration for the sheer number of dishes that Zenster has managed to place before us this day.
Blini with Caviar and Crème Frâiche
Buckwheat Pancakes with Beluga, Chopped Egg Yolk and Vidalia Onion
On a solid marble plate three buckwheat blinis are covered with a variety of fillings and topped with Beluga caviar. The brilliant yellow of the egg yolk offsets the delicate black grains of the caviar. Soft scrambled emu egg contrasts in texture to the crunchy and slightly salty fish roe. A bottle of quintuple distilled small grain Canadian vodka is frozen into a block of ice. The near flavorless spirits lance through the flavors of the minced onion and crème frâiche to revitalize the taste buds for another bite.
Served with quintuple distilled Canadian small grain vodka.
Again a dinner beginning with breakfast. The different tastes and textures of the three topping with the blini made this a more complex dish than expected, full of contrasting flavors.
Southwestern Omelette
Meringued Omelette with Emu, Green Chilies, Avocado and Jack Cheese
On a black glass platter fluffy meringued eggs wrap around tender emu breast with spicy green chilies, creamy avocado and melted Monterey Jack cheese. The subtle flavors are brought into harmony by the light golden eggs surrounding them. A small timbale of rabbit hash provides a piquant change-up in texture with minced beets for a burst of color. A few threads of Raclette cheese melt slowly into the crusted hash. Subtle fruit notes of the Chardonnay reorganize the palate for another bite of the warm delicious omelette. A refreshing array of citrus fruit supremes garnish the plate.
Served with a 1997 Rabbit Ridge Chardonnay.
I question the decision to place an omlette dish after a dish featuring scrambled eggs, but the infusion of spices keeps it from being too much. The rabbit hash complemented it nicely.
Chocolate Rabbit
Rabbit in Chocolate Mole Sauce with Chilie Relleno
A crimson oval platter holds tender morsels of long simmered rabbit in the traditional Mexican chocolate sauce. The warm spicy aroma of the mole is given further character by the flavor of the seared rabbit. A warm chile relleno at one edge of the plate gives a soothing alternative to the dark notes of the mole. A green chile peeks out from underneath its mantle of light golden emu egg as the melted cheese flows onto each forkful. The chilled black porter cuts through the spiciness of rabbit and chile alike with its toasty malted notes.
Served with an Edgefield Black Rabbit porter.
The decision to work chocolate into a main dish was a bold move and one that payed off. Rabbit blends well with the spice and earthy tone of the mole. A very fine dish.
Fritatta with Artichoke Hearts and Wild Mushrooms
Baked Egg and Vegetables
In the center of a forest green square plate, balanced on flowers of mashed potatoes, is a whole emu egg. The server taps gently upon the shell and it breaks open to reveal a fritatta of wild mushrooms and artichoke hearts capped with a crown of minced chives. The earthy note of the mushrooms are broadened by the artichoke hearts suspended in the firm cooked egg. The tart flowery top notes of the Frascatti wine add to the harmonious chorus emanating from each toothsome bite.
Served with an Italian Frascatti white wine.
While I applaud Chef Zenster’s attempt to focus on the egg as a main ingredient, I am forced to decide that enough is enough. While I am certain the fritatta on its own would be a fine dish, and the presentation was masterful, I could not muster enthusiasm for yet another egg dish.
Emu Breast Doro Alicha
African Stew with Emu Breast and Hard Cooked Egg
Unlike the more common and fiery doro wat, this alicha is more redolent of a mild curry with its ginger tastes. The clarified onions give backbone to the delicate ginger and lime flavors of the sauce. The tender emu breast is combined with the rich dense cooked egg to make a hearty fare. The South African Rustenberg Sauvignon Blanc has the fruit needed to pair correctly with the melting onions and buttery sauce.
Served with a South African Rustenberg Sauvignon Blanc.
Excellent. This change of pace was very welcome, a fine blend of spice and fruit. It was marred only by its barest nod to the theme with the addition of egg.
Lime Cooler
Palate Cleanser
Served in a cobalt blue glass this frappe of lime syrup and egg white makes a frosty and soothing interlude after the piquant heat of the mole and alicha dishes. A candied julienne of lime peel perches upon the rim as a diversion from the citrus blast of flavor.
Very refreshing, and a clever use of the egg ingredient.
Stuffed Roast Loin of Rabbit
Butterflied Tenderloin with Chestnuts, Apricots, Celeriac and Garlic Chives
A flame grained hardwood platter holds a spiral of oven roasted meat. Crispy threads of fruitwood smoked bacon interlace a coil of flattened rabbit tenderloins. A stuffing of dried apricots, celeriac root, roasted chestnuts and garlic chives combine sweet and bitter notes to alloy the game flavor of the rabbit into a bold framework of flavors. Tender golden Yukon potatoes and mildly citric orange cherry tomatoes flank the crusty basted meat. Tawny and rich with the character of the French cognac and veal stock the sauce naps each whirl of flavorful seasoned meat. The bold berry notes of the Silver Oak Cabernet resonate with the fruit flavors of the rabbit’s stuffing.
Served with a 1990 Silver Oak Cabernet Suavignon.
A very complex mix of flavors. Every bite brought a different combinations of flavors to the tongue, all of them delicious. An impressive dish.
Mousse Filled Egg with Danish Egg Cream Vanilla Sauce
White Chocolate Pudding with Vanilla Sauce
A midnight blue dish holds a white chocolate eggshell that has been filled with a marzipan mousse. Like a colored Easter egg, the edge of the eggshell is draped with edible flower petals to create a border of living decoration. Like a golden yolk, a ball of golden saffron tinted treble cream is nestled at one end of the mousse. A pool of cool rich vanilla spiked cream sauce thickened with emu egg yolk completes the egg theme. A ring of raspberry puree swirled into the vanilla sauce give a sharp contrast of flavor and color. Ancient spices from the Benedictine brandy make a complex companion for the gentle mousse and its rich sauce.
Served with Benedictine Brandy and hot coffee.
Well done. A beautiful dessert rich in color and flavor, that ties together the themes.