Part The First: Having Fun
As we have been told repeatedly, we moved away from New Orleans with astonishingly good timing, selling our house and leaving a month to the day before Katrina. We, of course, didn’t feel lucky, knowing so many places and people we knew and loved had gone through so much. We were finally able to make a trip back for French Quarter Festival, our favorite music festival, and then stayed a few more days to visit old friends and places.
First, the good news: The old house is still there and looks just fine. As does the old neighborhood – a couple of trees down (although not, fortunately, Miss Mary’s pine trees across the street) and a bit of minor roof damage seemed to be all anyone suffered. Unfortunately, we could never catch the new owners at home to see what it looks like inside now. Although I’m not sure I want to know. Damn, I loved that house.
We arrived Friday evening at the New Orleans Airport, and were immediately shocked at how deserted much of the airport is – half of it is simply not being used right now. It was very sad. Sadder still, the wonderful food at uninflated prices that used to be a highlight of the airport has been replaced by the typical overpriced crap. It was our first heartbreak.
Anyway, we were staying in the French Quarter, so of course we had to do the obligatory walking around seeing the sights. The tourist areas of New Orleans were relatively undamaged, and have since been repaired and are back up in (nearly) full swing – while the zoo, and the steamboat you can take to the zoo are in full operation, the St. Charles streetcar line is still under repairs, so you can only ride the streetcars along the river or up Canal right now. But the St. Charles streetcar tracks are still useful (the bus in the background makes me cringe, though – buses should not be on St. Charles Avenue!). And, of course, the leftover Mardi Gras beads still hang from the overhead wires and decorate the trees (hence the constant effort to persuade kids that the beads grow on trees).
The next morning we got up, swung by the nearby Wal-Mart to pick up portable chairs (remember the store where the cops were looting buggies full of DVDs? That’s the one) and rain ponchos and umbrellas (in purple/green/gold, of course), and headed off to the festival. The festival is held all along the river, with stages set up there as well as scattered around the Quarter. We approached via the Brass Band Stage, which is just in front of the aquarium and IMAX. We then had our second heartbreak: The lovely grove of trees that we used to sit under to enjoy all the wonderful Dixieland jazz are almost all gone. I realize they’re only trees, but their loss makes everything look so different. And they’ll take at least a generation to grow back.
Since I was only six weeks out from my knee replacement surgery, I opted not to wander too much, so I spent the majority of the day at the Brass Band Stage, although we did ride the streetcar down to the Old Mint to see a wonderful zydeco group, Jeremy & the Zydeco Hot Boyz. We’d seen them perform five years ago, at which time Jeremy was 14. :eek: He’s now an elderly 19. And an incredibly accomplished musician. In fact, their uncle, who plays bass, is the only over-21 in the entire group.
But the rest of the day, and the next, were spent doing the first of our favorite activities at the festival: Listening to various brass bands – Bone Tone, Society, Rebirth (which plays amazing funk), and a conglomeration known as the Arabi Wrecking Krewe All-Star Brass Band – started by a bunch of guys who were gutting houses together, and only playing for fundraisers. Plus anyone who wants to join them is welcome; this time they ended up with 15 guys onstage, including a 14-year-old trumpet player, another trumpeter from New York and a drummer from Germany. They did a fundraiser to help rebuild the home of Al “Carnival Time” Johnson, who you probably don’t know by name but might recognize as the composer of many well-known tunes, including “Shake, Rattle & Roll.” He performed a medley with the band while they passed the hat; at that point they’d raised over $10,000 in just a couple of weeks.
One of the highlights of the festival was seeing Kermit Ruffins get married onstage! (Don’t you love the minister’s shorts and t-shirt?)
The second favorite activity is eating. The festival is known for its Jazz Brunch, featuring heavenly food in large portions at great prices. Among other things, we ate:
- shrimp & garlic cheese grits
- crawfish bread
- pralines
-crabmeat ravioli
-praline creme brulée
Needless to say, it was all incredibly delicious and unbelievably rich!
And the third favorite activity is people-watching. Among my favorites:
A girl with a really cute puppy
A guy with a lime-green mohawk
A hat decorated with Mardi Gras Krewe logos (yes, that one does say “Alla Coonass”)
Two cute sisters dancing
A girl with really nasty dreadlocks
A guy who we’ve seen leading secondline parades at events all over town
This really weird dude who got out and “performed” with a broom, a golf club, and a stethoscope
Best of all, a Cajun who apparently had duded himself all up and just gotten off the shrimp boat – as if the leather hat, pink shirt with the nasty polyester suit, and scary clown face belt buckle weren’t elegant enough, his footwear took the prize – the nastiest pair of shrimping boots I have ever seen!
So the French Quarter Festival was definitely a success. But next was the part we knew would be difficult – visiting old friends and seeing old places and all the damage.
Continued in next post