Days at sea, then Newfoundland
Three days at sea can be tough to fill, especially when you can’t lounge around the pool. Pool-lounging wasn’t prohibited, but without a nice heavy quilt and perhaps a hot toddy, it wouldn’t have been too pleasant the last 3 days. Plus one day was really rough due to some weather between Canada and Greenland – they actually closed down the promenade deck and the jogging track.
We spent a number of hours seated by the windows in various lounges and club venues – Mom would read or do crossword puzzles, and I was making slippers. Assorted people would come by to occupy the vacant seats near us, and often conversations would start, tho some were silent partners. We’ve met several people from Maryland, which was a surprising change from all the Californians we kept encountering. Not that the Californians were unpleasant – we just started to feel like we were in the midst of left coasters and Canadians!!
There were several purported “sales” held either outside the various shops or, a couple of times, in one of the dining rooms. But there were no reduced prices – it was the same stuff always available, but in a more crowded venue. The crowds were crazy – it was like a feeding frenzy! We wandered thru a few just out of curiosity – Mom bought a pashmina, and apart from the 2 well-reduced t-shirts earlier on, I didn’t get anything. But these events did break up the days.
The string quartet played a number of times, and we’d often stop to listen. There’s something slightly surreal about ragtime being played by 2 violins, a viola, and a cello, but it was always enjoyable. We could have taken tap lessons – that also would have been surreal, as all of our shoes have soft soles – Tap for the Quiet. We stood in the back of the Bingo room once to watch – I don’t get the appeal – and we wandered thru the casino, looking at the flashy lights and fancy graphics, trying to understand how some of the slots were played. Neither of us wasted any money there.
Several lectures or presentations were scheduled and we checked out a few. One was about the origins of Greek tragedy – the material was interesting, but the speaker had a very soft, soothing voice, and we each dozed a bit at one point. There were a couple of talks on forensics and fingerprints as evidence, but we didn’t attend either and I think that was a good choice. We spoke with one woman who went and it sounded like anyone who watched a cop show on TV already knew more than was presented. We saw a towel-folding demonstration – apparently on Princess, you only get fancy folded towels if you book a suite. Those of us in the cheap seats got nothing!!
There were wine-tastings and talks by crew members, including one with the commodore that we didn’t attend. One we did do, tho, was a behind-the-scenes look at the theater. It was pretty impressive to see what they had and how compactly it was all stored. They even did a sorta-demo on how they did quick-changes during the shows. Believe it or not, some of the guys who work in the ship’s maintenance department do extra duty as dressers behind the scenes – plumber by day, backstage theater dude by night!
We found out the performers are responsible for cleaning and maintaining all of their costume items – there’s no wardrobe department. The stage and such were designed by the company that does Cirque de Soleil, so very high tech. We also learned that the performers’ cabins are backstage. Oh, and they all introduced themselves and told a little about their background. They range from one boy who was hired this year right out of college to a 12-year cruise show veteran. Very fun tour.
But by far, the highlight for me has been the return of Chris Watkins. He’s a flashy showman who really plays to his audience. His first show the other night was slightly longer than the one we saw on the first part of the cruise, but just as fun. He talked with the audience a bit more, and played a few more pieces. Then on Thursday night, he did a show he called Brahms to Broadway – performing with just the ship’s band director in the Explorer’s Lounge, which might seat 200, but I don’t think it’s that big.
We wanted to be sure we got great seats, so we showed up more than 2 hours early. We had books and we planted ourselves right up front. As we waited and read (or tried to read) we got to see them set up the stage, move the piano, check the lights and sound – all that technical stuff. Then Chris and Jane showed up to do a quick run-thru. He worked with the sound folks to get the volume and quality that he wanted. As they played the various selections, he and Jane would discuss tempo and volume and all that musical stuff. I’m assuming she was making notes on her music – otherwise, she’s got an amazing memory.
At one point, he came over to us and asked how it sounded – I assured him he done good. OK, not in those words exactly… About an hour before the show was to start, people started filling the seats. If you showed up 30 minutes early, you’d be standing. And there we were – right in front. I had my camera ready.
The show was absolutely wonderful. I couldn’t believe the difference between the rehearsal and the performance – after just the brief practice, they sounded like they’d been playing together forever! And he said they’d just downloaded some of the music that afternoon! Among other things, he did 2 pieces from Les Mis - I Dreamed a Dream (which I recorded) and Bring Him Home, which almost reduced me to tears, it was so beautiful. Then he did Send in the Clowns (also recorded) and it was just unbelievable. My little .avi files don’t do justice to his playing.
OK, no more gushing, but if he ever performs in your area, go see him.
As for today, coming into St. Johns harbor, you must traverse The Narrows – and they are narrow!! I was up early today for no particular reason, and I was playing Scrabble on the computer when I looked out the door to the balcony and saw LAND!!! RIGHT THERE!!! If I hadn’t been in my nightshirt, I’d have gone up on the pool deck to see how close we were on the other side, altho when we left, I could see we were CLOSE there too. Someone at dinner the other night mentioned that some ships were unable to call at St. Johns because the wind and weather prevented safe passage thru the Narrows, and I can believe it.
Anyway, we got in safely, got tied up at the dock, and our day began. Newfoundland’s time is 30 minutes behind what you’d expect it to be, so when people started leaving the ship around 8:30, it was only 8AM in town. Most places didn’t open till 9 or 10, so Mom and I had breakfast, then came back to the room to read for a bit. Around 9:30, we went into town to walk around and check things out. As we exited the port area, two young women were giving out samples of locally made chocolate along with a business card with a map to their shop. Somehow, we missed going there.
St. Johns is a very steep city – some places instead of sidewalks, there are flights of steps. We had no place to go and plenty of time before we had to be back at the ship for our afternoon tour, so we went slowly, pausing as needed to breathe. One of the first Canadian landmarks we passed was a Tim Horton’s. Had I known, I’d have skipped breakfast, but neither of us could have eaten anything. Oh well. We also passed a poutine restaurant, but it was too early, and we wouldn’t have had time to get lunch there then make our bus, so no poutine for us.
One of the characteristic things about this town are the colorful houses. They’re required to have clapboard siding and certain kinds of windows since it’s a preservation area, but they’re free to paint as they wish, and boy, do they! Everything from muted tans to buttercup yellows to bright blues to classic brick tones. Some had wildly contrasting trims or bright door colors. And most are old row houses. They’re referred to as “Jellybeans” and you’ll see representations painted on mailboxes, t-shirts, shot glasses, and even hunks of granite. We took tons of photos up and down streets.
We also stopped in the Anglican cathedral to look around. According to the docent we spoke with, the parish has been there since 1699, but the church building that stands now is early 19th century. In 1892, 2/3 of the city was burned down in a massive fire, and while the church is built of bluestone and sandstone, the roof was wooden, as were many things inside, and the roof caught fire and collapsed, destroying everything inside that wasn’t stone, including all of the stained glass windows. The fire was started by a local man smoking in his barn – dunno if his name was O’Leary or not.
We walked into a few shops to look around. Mom bought herself a t-shirt that changes colors in the sunlight, plus her obligatory magnet. Nothing I saw demanded to be purchased, so I came home empty handed. We were sprinkled on ever-so-slightly, but it wouldn’t be fair to call it rain. And after an hour and a half or so, we wandered back to the ship. As we were walking down the dock, I saw a sign that said “Wharf Speed” – nothing else - and I just had to take a picture of it.
Back aboard, we had a quick lunch, then assembled for our bus trip. I was under the impression that we’d be walking thru an old fishing village, then going for a port wine tasting. Well, that was sorta right. First thing we did was drive to the top of Signal Hill – oh, what a photo op that was! We took pictures of the city and the ocean and the tower atop the hill and an old Plymouth that was parked in the lot. As we reboarded the bus, we were handed a little plastic cup with a wee taste of Cabot Tower rum. It’s a local favorite, but I’m not a rum drinker and I wasn’t much impressed, even when the guide added some pepsi to it.
Next we drove to a boatyard where a bunch of fishing boats were tied up and we had about 10 minutes to snap some photos there. After that, we drove thru the city a bit before stopping at what used to be Newman Wine Vault – it’s now on the national register as an historic site. We got a brief talk about port wine in St. Johns then we got to taste some ruby port – it was quite yum. I’m not usually a fan of red wine, but this was on the sweet side and very smooth. And the building was quite old, so I got some interesting photos there also.
Back on the bus and we headed to Quidi Vidi (pronounced keedee-veedee) – a fishing village. But it turns out we were there at the Quidi Vidi Brewery for beer tasting. If this had been mentioned in the writeup about this tour, I certainly missed it. I don’t like beer – never have, even after assorted samplings over 40 years. And on this stop, I got to taste 5 more, none of which seemed drinkable to me. Mom enjoyed them and I tasted them all, but after the first, I asked the young man filling our glasses to just give me about an inch in the small glass – maybe an ounce? There was absolutely nothing about any of them that appealed to me. Obviously, it’s an acquired taste that I’ve never acquired.
On the way back to the ship, we drove down some of the streets Mom and I had walked that morning, and we were deposited safely at the dock about 5 minutes before the deadline. As we headed back to the ship, there were women handing out lapel pins of Newfies (the dog) and a little sheet saying that when we were sailing out in the evening, the ships in the harbor would toot us out. We were on our balcony as the ship pushed off the dock and backed into the main part of the harbor. Then very slowly, it pivoted so the bow was aimed for the Narrows. About that time, the various boats around started blowing their horns and whistles, people in cars honked their horns, people lined the shore, waving as we went by.
As we passed the fishing boat yard where we’d stopped earlier, we saw a wedding party on the dock – two little girls in long fluffy dresses were jumping around and waving at us. When the people on the ship realized it was a wedding group, there were cheers and applause. All the while, honking and tooting and blaring all around. Mom caught much of it with her camera – the noise is obvious, but you really can’t appreciate how narrow The Narrows are (is?) from her video. You’ll just have to go see for yourselves.
Shortly after clearing the lighthouse, the pilot boat came alongside to pick up the pilot, and we were on our way. Oh, one bonus – I was able to call my sweetie while we were in port. I’m not sure how far out from land AT&T’s signals reach, so I don’t know if I’ll be able to call any more before we get into New York. But it was nice to hear his voice.
We’ve got 2 more days at sea and no more port calls. Mom and I are mostly packed – I have one suitcase full of dirties, and the rest of the dirties plus a few clean items, as well as yarn and souvenirs, will go into the other bag. We have to put them out by 10 on Sunday night, and whatever else we have will go into our carry-on bags.
Unless something exciting happens, this will be the last you hear from me till I pop into the next MMP. I’ll link to my photobucket album if anyone cares to see my pics, but I doubt I’ll have much more to share about the trip since you’ve been getting updates all along. So if you’re tired of it, I’m pretty much done.
Many thanks to my favorite bear for posting these for me. MWAH!!