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ICELAND. The island of Iceland is one of the stepping-stones of land between the North American and European continents. It is located just south of the Arctic Circle about 180 miles (290 kilometers) southeast of Greenland, 620 miles (1,000 kilometers) west of Norway, and 500 miles (800 kilometers) northwest of Scotland. Over 80 percent of the island is unpopulated because the land is covered either with permanent snow and ice fields (glaciers) or has a volcanic surface, which has poor soils that are not suited to crop growing, sheep grazing, or other agricultural activities. It is one of the world’s smaller nations with a population of about 256,000. More than 50 percent of the people live in or near the capital city of Reykjavik in the extreme southwestern portion of the island. It is located on major shipping and air lanes of the North Atlantic Ocean, and it occupies a unique position in the world as one of the first independent, democratic republics.
The Land and Resources
The geological origin of Iceland is volcanic in nature and the surface has been formed by lava flows and other volcanic materials that come from numerous erupting volcanoes, some of which are still active. Hot lava is near the surface, and many geysers or hot springs are formed when water comes into contact with the lava-heated rocks. The steam or hot water created by this contact is used to heat the homes and buildings of Reykjavik as well as greenhouses, which produce flowers and vegetables. Active volcanoes, such as the 4,891-foot (1,491-meter) Hekla, erupt occasionally and sometimes cause considerable damage. The volcanic island of Surtsey off the southern coast was formed by eruptions that began in 1963.
The extensive lava plateaus are largely covered by ice caps from which many glaciers move outward toward the sea. Rugged mountains are characteristic of the coastline, except for the plains area near Reykjavik in the southwest. Hvannadalshnukur along the southern coast is the highest peak (6,952 feet; 2,119 meters). The irregular coast is indented by many fjords and bays except in the southwest.
The Icelandic climate is rather moderate despite the island’s northerly latitude because of the relatively warm North Atlantic Drift waters that bathe the southern and western coasts. Nevertheless, the climate is cool throughout the year. The mean temperature at Reykjavik in January is 31o F (-0.6o C) and 52o F (11.2o C) in June. The northern coasts have colder water offshore for most of the year and the temperature there is normally 5.5o F (3o C) colder than the southern coast temperature in summer and 9o F (5o C) colder in winter. Along the northern coast drift ice and foggy conditions sometimes prevail during winter. The frost-free growing period is short, however, and snow remains at higher altitudes for six months or more. The average annual precipitation varies from 40 to 60 inches (1,000 to 1,500 millimeters) in the populated southwest. Extremes that range from less than 20 inches (500 millimeters) in the north to about 120 inches (3,000 millimeters) in the highlands have been measured.
The country’s lava soils, climate, and poor drainage conditions are not favorable to tree growth. Most of the lower parts of the island were covered with trees that were either burned off by early settlers, cut for timber, or killed by sheep gnawing at the bark for food during winter. The present vegetation consists of cotton grass and other sedges and rushes in the marshy areas; small forested areas consisting of dwarf willows, birches, and mountain ash; and grass, moss, and lichens in the coastal valleys, the plains of the southwest, and the lower elevation lava plateaus.
The fox is the only native four-legged animal. The reindeer was introduced from Norway about 1770. About 100 species of birds, including many types of waterfowl, inhabit the island. Whales and seals are found along the coast. Trout and salmon inhabit the inland lakes and streams, and several commercial fish species are located in the surrounding waters. Especially numerous are herring and cod.
The People–Their Way of Life and Culture
Irish monks established early isolated settlements in Iceland, but Norwegians arriving from AD 874 were primarily responsible for the island’s continuous occupation and population growth. In addition to the Norwegian stock, large numbers of the early settlers came from the British Isles. Traders from the Black Sea and Mediterranean areas also culturally influenced the island.
Icelandic culture is similar to that of the Scandinavian countries, especially Norway. The Icelandic language is primarily Old Norse or old Norwegian in character, although it varies considerably from modern Norwegian. The Evangelical Lutheran church is the state church, but the people are free to worship as they please. Education levels are high in Iceland, where more books and newspapers are published per person than in any other nation. The University of Iceland in Reykjavik, founded in 1911, is free to citizens. Schooling is required through age 16.
Despite the problems presented by Iceland’s natural environment, the standard of living is relatively high. The people receive a variety of social services from the government, including medical care, unemployment insurance, pensions for the elderly and handicapped, and free schooling. The homes in the cities are equipped with modern conveniences, such as refrigerators, stoves, radios, televisions, and indoor running water and plumbing. Most houses are constructed from concrete rather than wood, which is scarce. Fish and mutton, available locally, are leading foods. Most fruits and vegetables have to be imported, except for those grown in greenhouses. The cost of living is relatively high in Iceland because so many foods, other raw materials, and most manufactured products must be imported.
Literary works called sagas and Eddas provide Icelanders with a rich literary background dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries. The sagas are about Icelandic and Scandinavian heroes, and the Eddas are the stories of gods and heroes of the pre-Christian era in Northern Europe. Icelandic people in modern times have been important contributors of novels, poems, and musical compositions. In 1955 Halldor Laxness was awarded the Nobel prize for literature.
The Economy
The few resources available in Iceland place limits on the economy. Fishing is a dominant occupation because of the rich fishing grounds for cod and herring in the waters that surround the island. Nearly 900 fishing vessels bring to shore about 1,500,000 metric tons of fish. Fish and whale products account for 75 percent of the value of exports from Iceland. Much of the processing–such as salting, freezing, and canning–of fish is done in Reykjavik, the principal port and population center. The fishery limits were extended to 200 nautical miles (370 kilometers) in 1975 in order to protect this crucial industry. The British raised strong objections to the extension of the fishery zone, because they have long regarded the waters off Iceland as an important fishing ground for their own fishing fleet.
Agriculture is based primarily on sheep and dairy cattle. Sheep graze the open, highland pastures during summer and are rounded up each fall. The cattle feed on lowland coastal pastures during summer and stored hay during winter. Less than 1 percent of Iceland is under cultivation. Hay, potatoes, and turnips are the chief crops. Some vegetables and grain grow in the more suitable areas. The threat of summer frosts, the cold summer temperatures, and the short growing season severely limit the variety and success of crop production.
Various manufacturing and service industries have become increasingly important to Iceland as the population has become more urban. About 90 percent of the people live in cities and 13 percent are employed in manufacturing.