Despite living most of my adult life in Chicago, if someone says, “hot dog,” I immediately think of Russ Ayres hot dog stand on Rt. 206 in Bordentown, NJ (not too far from Hamilton).
They weren’t great hot dogs. Boiled, supermarket buns, standard accoutrements like mustard, onions, sauerkraut, etc. It was, essentially, a hot dog cart with the barest minimum of a building around it to meet code. You could probably buy sodas and bags of chips to go with the dogs, and that’s about all.
Russ had this…rhythm to assembling a dog, with exaggerated arm motions as he dipped tongs into the water to pluck out a dog, or to pull out sauerkraut. He hardly (if ever) spoke to anyone. In my mind’s eye he never spoke at all. His actions were very fluid, almost like a dance.
It was also the place that I learned something about community. Russ was epileptic, and would occasionally have seizures while working. They were somewhere between what I think of as petit mal and grand mal. He wouldn’t visibly convulse, but he would start to waver a bit on his feet, and would eventually seem to just faint away. Unattended, he would fall to the floor, at risk of injury to himself due to the fall, or striking his head on something. After 5 minutes or so, he’d come back to himself and resume work.
I speak of community because everyone around knew this about Russ, so whenever I was in his shop and he started to seize, there was always someone who would run around the counter to catch him and gently lower him to the ground until the seizure passed. He didn’t have a caretaker or minder or anything; these were just customers. I don’t remember him ever saying, “thank you,” when he came to (like I said, I don’t remember him ever speaking at all), and whoever helped him never asked for thanks. The rest of the customers never commented, remarked, or made a big fuss. It’s just what happened sometimes when you went to Russ Ayres for a hot dog.
The shop is still there, but Russ died a while back. I don’t go there when I visit my folks; it’s not the same place. It does make me a little wistful whenever I pass it though. For all that I grew up in pretty bog-standard suburbia, I’m coming to realize that it was also kind of small-townish.
Anyway, whenever I hear the words, “hot dog,” that is the very first image that comes to mind, and I smile.
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