In order to screw me out of my last two paychecks, “Movieline” pulled my last two “Bottom Shelf” columns and yanked me outta the masthead (I just got the December issue). So, would those of you who have enjoyed my column for the past eight years please do me a huge favor and write to “Movieline” at 10537 Santa Monica Boulevard, #250, Los Angeles, CA 90025, and make your opinion known? Of course, if you think my writing sucks and you’re glad to see the last of me, you may tell them that, too.
By the way, this is the column that WOULD have run in this issue:
Have you been dissatisfied with your dining experiences of late? Jaded with Le Cirque? Has Tengo lost its thrill? Well, the answer to your culinary malaise just might be in the enchantingly titled “Doilies Make the Difference!” An intriguing glimpse behind the curtains of restaurant management, this video packs many eye-opening shocks in its brief ten minutes.
Our avuncular host, Ezra Eidelberger, wants us to know that, as food service professionals, we are “not just selling food.” No, we are selling ambiance, and nothing says “ambiance” like paper lace doilies scattered under and over every possible surface! I may take a quick breath here to note that using the words “paper” and “lace” in the same sentence is the sort of thing that used to send the Duchess of Windsor to bed with a sick headache.
But Ezra barges right along, telling us how doilies “add elegance to any place setting.” They can sucker you into buying dessert, which is the most profitable item on the menu (“people buy with their eyes,” Ezra says, pegging us as the spineless dessert suckers he knows we are). Why, most people would buy a phlegmball if it were set off by an enticing doily!
But wait! Doilies are veritable Swiss Army Knives of versatility! They provide a safe barrier between food and surfaces which have been improperly cleaned, thereby absolving you from ever wiping those sneeze-marks off the platter. They prevent slippage, so banana cream pies will not fly off the trays into the faces of society dowagers. And they save money–we learn that one restaurant saved $5765.76 per year when using those paper schmatas instead of real linen (so if your bill ever comes to exactly $5765.76, you’ll know why).
And there are ever so many doilies to choose from: grease-resistant doilies for cakes! Heart-shaped ones for Valentine’s Day! Silver doilies for 25th wedding anniversaries! No doubt wooden ones for 5th anniversaries! Doilies for take-out, for boardroom meetings, for hotel bathrooms and to place under roadkill on the Parkway! Yes, anything looks better when plunked atop a doily!
“But Eve,” I hear you whine, “We’re not restaurant professionals, why should WE care about doilies?” Well, first off, you may not be a restaurant professional NOW, but who knows what tomorrow may bring? And that’s a very short-sighted attitude, I might add. Why, Doilies Can Make the Difference in our everyday life, if you only apply them correctly! Slip one under your cat’s litter box, and it becomes Hermosa Beach! Does your boyfriend look like Howdy Doody’s less attractive brother? Sit him on a doily and—presto!—he’s NBC news hunk John Siegenthaler!
So next time you’re dining at 21 with the Maharajah of Cooch Behar and your Chicken Kiev arrives sans doily, you know what to do—rip off your lobster bib and bellow to the nearest waiter, “Hay! Where the hell’s my goddam doily? I been t’rown outta better dives than this!” Somewhere, Ezra Eidelberger and I will be beaming our approval.